Watercooled PC (split from Gallery thread)

Soldato
Joined
15 Feb 2006
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DSC00181-1.jpg

DSC00178.jpg

DSC00182.jpg


Note: Photo's were taken before addition of 2nd card for SLi.

AndyOcUK
OcUK Tech
 
oceaness said:
Pretty neat, but the tube carrying liquid into the case via the PCI bracket seems to be bent rather sharply?
It's not bent at all - just the angle the photo gives the impression of. Trust me! ;)

Its cooling my FX57 @ 3.2GHz @29 degrees which I think speaks for itself.

Regards

AndyOcUK
OcUK Tech Manager ;)
 
<maddness> said:
whats that 29 degree, when the systems off? lol

I've had this argument before and I'm not getting into it again!

Thats 29 degrees idle with the rad sitting right next to an open window.

I'm not seeking approval, I know I know what I'm doing!

I notice you work at Intel.... ever likely u r surprised since the netburst chips over the last 4 years (until conroe - granted) idled at around 50 degress! lol :D

AndyOcUK
OcUK Tech :p
 
Swiftech Apex 200 Kit then or did you buy in bits? Whats with the froth?

Looks cool though. Got any daylight pics so we can see the inside of the rig more clearly?

How am I giving the Asetek undue credit?

Also, a few more details about my loop:

Asetek Xtreme 12V Pump variable between 2880 and 3780RPM
10mm OD Tubing
Asetek Antartica CPU block
Swiftech (Green) additive
Coolant = 70% deionised H20, 10% Glycol, 10% Swiftech Additive and 10% top secret
Asetek Waterchill VFD display
Asetek Black Ice dual 120mm Rad on Swiftech Radbox (Fans pulling)
2nd stage Asetek reservoir/ air trap (see pic)

as you can see its not been set up in the conventional way, as you rightfully expect from an OcUK techie and system builder.

Regards

AndyOcUK
OcUK tech :cool:
 
<maddness> said:
that looks nice and tidy. Good Job :)

The case is tidy but why is the rad fan pulling hot air from the Rad into THE CASE i.e. The area containing the very components you are trying to keep cool????????? Also, that dust filter will need cleaning every couple of days being so close, and sucking at, that thick carpet. :eek: :rolleyes:

AndyOcUK
OcUK Tech
 
True but the air from the radiator will be a lot warmer than the outside temp and its only an inch away from the graphics card. Call me old fashioned but isn't the golden rule to get air heated up by components OUT of the case as quickly as possible?

In my experience, a top mounted mod or a Swiftech Radbox mount on the back is much better.

I've had my FX upto 3.4 an I can tell you that my rad is very warm to the touch and a darn site warmer than the air in my room or in my case.

Also that 1 degree can some times make the difference between a stable or unstable OC.

Regards

AndyOcUK
OcUK Tech
 
Coolant is far from standard.

2 reservoirs in an asetek kit??

Any comments on your quote on the tidy job above? not an ideal layout.

AndyOcUK
 
<maddness> said:
IMO a radbox mount on the back looks silly, might give you an extra degree or 2,
i suppose it is a solution for those who are not able to use the rad within the case. ;)

Well Swiftech (the makers of your kit) make the radbox and Asetek make a top mounted rad/ pump unit.

They make these kits and I think they know more about it than we do.

This argument is futile and boring and like all good wars, nobody really wins. Lets just agree to disagree.

I'll get rid of my silly radbox if u get rid of that soapy snot and replace it with coolant!! LOL :D

Best regards

AndyOcUK
OcUK tech
 
delbuenno said:
As I stated in my first post
"Really wanted watercooling but also wanted it all internally"
So radbox wasn't an option.

With the fans I tried a number of variations:-
1) both fans inside pulling cold air through
2) both fans inside pushing warm air out
3) both fans outside pushing cold air through
4) both fans outside pulling warm air out
5) one fan inside one out in an offset push/pull set-up (cold air through)
6) one fan inside one out in an offset push/pull set-up (warm air out)

There were no noticable case temp differences with any of the above setups but my GFX mosfets are around 40degrees cooler at full load with the internal fan(s) blowing onto them ie, setup 1) and 5). The final decision to stick with setup 5) was because I needed a PCI slot freeing up which the other fan in setup 1) blocked.

As for the dust filter - not been using it for the last 4-5 months and only had a tiny ammount of dust build-up in the case when I took the pics. (and as a bonus, roll the pc around and I don't need to hoover :rolleyes: LoL)

Cool :cool: Just seemed a little strange at first glance but, whatever works.

Where did you get that colour additive?
 
gurusan said:
How much voltage are you pumping through that FX-57..if i may ask?

1.485V @ 200fsb (multiplier clocked only) with HT X3 and 1 "notch up on the HT Voltage and chipset voltage.

Takes plenty of tweaking with pump speeds & fan management and also everything I don't use is turned off in BIOS.

Great case airflow and a solid PSU obviously help enornormously.

Last January I had it stable at 3.4GHz @ 1.5V idle at 31 degrees. After 2 hours of Far Cry online it was still stable at 37 degrees.

Come on Winter..... DO YOUR WORST!!! You can't come quicly enough!!! lol

Andy OcUK tech
 
1.4375V
12X Multiplier
240FSB
HTT multiplier at X3

That will give you 2880 MHz (2.88GHz) Which is FX57 speeds

Put the FSB upto 250 and you will be at 3GHz

Glad you got the tubing OK

Happy to help.

Here is a link to a thread discussing these chips:

http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=17605578

Theres a screenie of one I oc'd at work to test them on the second page I Think!! :cool:

oc3gcopy-1.jpg


AndyOcUK
OcUK Tech :cool:
 
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Temps around 38 with an Arctic Freezer 64 Pro

Your RAM won't do it..... u need PC4000 (250Mhz [X2 = 500MHz] RAM)

The properties window is editable through any system builder software.

Tweak XP will do it.

Just to clarify - these are San Diego cores (1mb of L2 cache) and the only difference between these 4000+'s and an FX57 is a lower, locked multiplier.

AndyOcUK
OcUK Tech :cool:
 
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