What Kit to Get Started
- Thread starter fez
- Start date
usually 1-2mm gap between the lever and stop
(it says that in most owners manuals) but on most levers theres an adjuster with 5 settings,that moves the bite point closer/further away without adjusting the clutch/brake
(it says that in most owners manuals) but on most levers theres an adjuster with 5 settings,that moves the bite point closer/further away without adjusting the clutch/brake
I'm not sure what you mean. I'm just wandering how far the lever can travel between when it is untouched away from the bar and when it is fully compressed towards the bar.
bout three to four inches? from fully out to touching the bar,when releasing the clutch it should be about one or two inches before it starts to bite
you can either adjust the clutch adjuster in to give you a closer bite point or adjust the round dial with the 5 numbers on it
you can either adjust the clutch adjuster in to give you a closer bite point or adjust the round dial with the 5 numbers on it
Soldato
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Not sure what wazza means but for the clutch the 'travel' will be from the lever fully extended (i.e. not touching it) to right back against the bar. Typically the bite point will be at the start of the range of movement, normally about an inch from when you start pulling it in. Front brake can have 2-3" of travel on the lever, obviously the more you pull it, the more the brakes bite. Rear brake pedal is probably 2" of travel, with a bit of slack before the pads start to bite. You should be able to find the bite point on the clutch and rev the engine anywhere (even off the limiter!) and only have the bike move slightly. If it's moving too fast, clutch in and a bit of rear brake (if needed). Controlling speed when going slow means a combination of the 3.
http://www.girlclutch.com/adjusting-your-motorcycle-to-fit-you-2/
its in there,they recommend 5mm but that's too large a gap imo,1-2mm is better (the exposed cable showing,between the lever and stop) then you know its properly adjusted
its in there,they recommend 5mm but that's too large a gap imo,1-2mm is better (the exposed cable showing,between the lever and stop) then you know its properly adjusted
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I think wazza means free play, as in the few mm (depending on the bike/preference) that the clutch lever can move without it doing anything, i.e. the "floppy" movement. Mine's perfect at around 3mm and Triumph recommend 2-5mm I think it is, so all good there.
The travel would be all the way in to the handle bar. That distance is really up to you (if it's adjustable). Just make it so it's comfortable for you to grab without stretching.
The travel would be all the way in to the handle bar. That distance is really up to you (if it's adjustable). Just make it so it's comfortable for you to grab without stretching.
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Not on cheap 125's with stock levers you don't. Which is what you're going to get at most training schools.
Yeah, I don't think there was any way to adjust them on the bikes I was on. I'm still really struggling on whether to just wait until I have done my full test and get a bike then or get a 125 for a bit. I just know that without any urgency I will just rag a 125 for 2 years and end up having to do my CBT again.
Yeah the 125s are nippy at slower speeds and the acceleration is quite good but it did feel a little weedy.
I didn't realise as well that there is only one CBT. You can do it on a scooter then jump on a 125 geared and that's fine.
I didn't realise as well that there is only one CBT. You can do it on a scooter then jump on a 125 geared and that's fine.
As I posted before, for the price of buying a 125, you can do your full DAS course and have money left over for all your kit, 4 days training including test fees will cost you around £600-£700, book your theory before you start doing any DAS training as without it you can't take your mod 1.
Just you wait till you get on a bigger bike
The CBT in general is mental as far as I'm concered, I like the fact that it meant I went from nothing to transport in one day but if you actually think about it it's pretty dangerous.
Just you wait till you get on a bigger bike
The CBT in general is mental as far as I'm concered, I like the fact that it meant I went from nothing to transport in one day but if you actually think about it it's pretty dangerous.
It's super dangerous. I have done my cbt over 1.5 days and that's going from never having ridden a bike in my life. Riding a geared bike whilst trying to be safe, indicate etc is not that easy to pick up and I'm glad I wasn't on the roads my first day. A good nights sleep made a big difference and I'm still not massively convinced I am 100% safe on the roads.
To think that someone can learn on a 50cc scooter then go out that evening on a 125 geared in the dark is just plain stupid.
As a side note, what size bikes would you say most people end up on? Does a 600 feel small after a while?
That's preference really. A lot of people stick with 600 which is generally a good middle ground between performance, mpg, price to run it etc. Saying that, my Speed Triple does just as good if not better MPG than a lot of 600s
For me personally, a 600 is a bit small, especially for long runs. I find a bigger bike a lot more comfortable.
Associate
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I think it depends on whether or not you have some roadcraft, as a car driver I was scared but I knew the roads I was riding & what to sorta expect. The controls are fairly easy, much easier than a car imho but to think someone who doesn't know the roads can be out by themselves after a few hours tuition seems mad.
I didn't think it was the knowledge of the roads that would cause issues, more the lack of complete control over the bike and the chance you would panic if something unexpected happened and you had to react. Most people would be fine but some people would panic and hit the throttle or slam on their front brake.