MK1? Modern classic! Keep it mint and it'll appreciate
It's slightly slipped away from the condition known as mint lol. I'd probably have to pay WBAC to take it away. Yet the 150000 mile old girl keeps going.
What "man jobs" have you done today?
- Thread starter jaybee
- Start date
It's slightly slipped away from the condition known as mint lol. I'd probably have to pay WBAC to take it away. Yet the 150000 mile old girl keeps going.
That's the way. Start them young. I'm lucky if I can convince mine to do any form of Dad jobs.
"Hold this."
"Can you see it coming through?".
"Pull that".
"OK lift".
"Bit more".
"**** sake".
The language of Dad jobs.
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Links to good ones?
That's fair and I also am not a huge fan of compression fittings and solder where I can, I now just try to do them up like the hulk would and then walk away and pray for no weeping.
I thought that was ill advised? If you do a compression up tight enough you can pull the olive up too far to the end of the pipe and/or off it entirely?
Fixed daughter's Lenovo laptop hinge (reknown for failing sadly) with some epoxy resin. Did the best I could given how badly it's failed and ripped out of the plastic housing.
Result: The lid now doesn't shut flush and I told her to be delicate with it opening from the centre. Not sure how long it will last. I did lubricate the hinges and untighten them (they are so tight from factory that this causes them to fail on a lot of Lenovos
)
Whilst on the subject of hinges, I then decided to finally replace our bifold door's main door lower hinge, which has been broken since we moved in. The entire replacement hinge with roller seems to be hundreds! So I managed to source just the actual central hinge part for 20 odd quid. I didn't want to take the whole door off as these are difficult to setup and adjust fully so I managed to pop the old hinge pin out from the bottom by levering a crowbar and some bolts/bits gently against the sill, until it stuck out the top enough to grab and hammer off. I used a jack to support the door underneath whilst I did the faff of an operation.
Result: The door is now harder to shut and lets more wind in. Total success.
I then moved onto trying to repair the old laser printer one last time...ok two last times. Nope it's done.
So set up the new replacement.
Result: Can now print reliably within seconds. Wife and kids are happy.
Result: The lid now doesn't shut flush and I told her to be delicate with it opening from the centre. Not sure how long it will last. I did lubricate the hinges and untighten them (they are so tight from factory that this causes them to fail on a lot of Lenovos
)Whilst on the subject of hinges, I then decided to finally replace our bifold door's main door lower hinge, which has been broken since we moved in. The entire replacement hinge with roller seems to be hundreds! So I managed to source just the actual central hinge part for 20 odd quid. I didn't want to take the whole door off as these are difficult to setup and adjust fully so I managed to pop the old hinge pin out from the bottom by levering a crowbar and some bolts/bits gently against the sill, until it stuck out the top enough to grab and hammer off. I used a jack to support the door underneath whilst I did the faff of an operation.
Result: The door is now harder to shut and lets more wind in. Total success.
I then moved onto trying to repair the old laser printer one last time...ok two last times. Nope it's done.
So set up the new replacement.
Result: Can now print reliably within seconds. Wife and kids are happy.
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Nice work @Participant
I probably would have investigated the dead mouse a bit more whilst floor was accessible as well. Hopefully just a one off, but unfortunately one normally means more, somewhere...
I probably would have investigated the dead mouse a bit more whilst floor was accessible as well. Hopefully just a one off, but unfortunately one normally means more, somewhere...
I need some help actually guys with a heating related thing. We have underfloor heating in the kitchen which works brilliantly. The digital controller to err control it, is limited. We literally use it as an on/off switch. It displays the temperature and has the ability to set time periods for when it comes on or off, but I don't think there is a way of setting the actual temperature it turns off at. So basically I can set it to be on between X and Y, but it will then just simply stay on for that entire duration, pumping away and after an hour or two, the room can get up to 22/23 degrees if we are cooking in there as well so I have to manually turn it off. I know, first world problem.
I guess I should take it off the wall and check what wires I have going to it to see what I can replace it with to start with? I will try to get the model number. Seems an unbranded basic thing.
I guess I should take it off the wall and check what wires I have going to it to see what I can replace it with to start with? I will try to get the model number. Seems an unbranded basic thing.
Sorry I should have made that clear, it's a separate thing to only control the underfloor. It's a wet system. It is part of the central heating but is independently controlled. Has it's own loop. So the main house heating for radiators is on a separate thermostat and controller elsewhere.
The underfloor digital controller basically sends a signal to call the main boiler and a separate pump by the manifold in the kitchen, to come on at the same time.
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Totally agree with you. I would tell most people the same exact thing. No offense taken. I would love it if it was me being a **** and it does in fact do what I want! Here it is it appears to be the same as this I found in two places:
TFC Group
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The only reference to temperature I can see in the manual on there listed under technical documents, says about setting the frost setting in 5 degree increments. What a useless POS. It's basically a time switch. The temperature appears to literally be there just so you can see...well the temperature. lol
EDIT: Found it on toolstation now and the first review confirms it:
"No temperature controls"
"Accidentally bought this instead of a thermostat because it shows the temperature and I didn't read the description properly. Seems like an ok timer, but the rubbery buttons feel like the ones on a cheap multi function tv remote.
EDIT: Found it on toolstation now and the first review confirms it:
"No temperature controls"
"Accidentally bought this instead of a thermostat because it shows the temperature and I didn't read the description properly. Seems like an ok timer, but the rubbery buttons feel like the ones on a cheap multi function tv remote.
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Room temperature DISPLAY
Just put a normal thermostat (or wired receiver for a wireless thermostat if you prefer) inline with the demand signal from that controller. Then it needs to be "timer says yes" AND "thermostat says heat please".
Yeah that would work, and possibly be cheaper.
In the hallway we have a wireless thermostat which links back to a box in the airing cupboard to call the boiler. This wireless thermostat has a programmer built in as well, so I can say when I want it on in time periods, and the target temperature. Can I not just get an all in one digital unit which is a programmer/timer/thermostat all in one?
lol
Yeah that blue display of the temperature has me throbbing every morning.
I think I've found some stuff online to suit now. Will post back my findings when I attempt it.
Alright guys. Help please.
Continuing from my earlier posts abut how my kitchen programmer is rubbish because it's not a thermostat and purely a digital timer, I bought a new Drayton programmable timer all in one unit. I got the mains powered one as that's how the old one was wired in with 3 core and earth cable going to it. I've wired the new one in and having a quick fiddle and making the gas/fire sign light up (meaning to call for boiler), it is not turning the boiler on.
This is how the old one was wired below. So live in 1, neutral in 2, and then the black one was in the number 4 which is NO (Normally open). The terminal 3 had nothing in it as you can see and is labelled NC (Normally closed). There is 240v across live and neutral wire, and the live and black wire at all times when power is on.
And this is how I did the new one. I did live and neutral into live and neutral. Then the black wire into the "LOAD ON" terminal.
Should I have done the black wire into the load off? Or do I need to bridge the live wire to the common? Or bridge neutral to common? Or will it never work?
EDIT:
Here is a guy installing the same but he has 4 core and earth cable and runs 2 switch wires to the top section. I can't do that as only have 3 core and earth, unless I cowboy it by using the earth earth and re-sheathing it. Don't really want to do that as then I will have to take apart the other end and re-wire.
Continuing from my earlier posts abut how my kitchen programmer is rubbish because it's not a thermostat and purely a digital timer, I bought a new Drayton programmable timer all in one unit. I got the mains powered one as that's how the old one was wired in with 3 core and earth cable going to it. I've wired the new one in and having a quick fiddle and making the gas/fire sign light up (meaning to call for boiler), it is not turning the boiler on.
This is how the old one was wired below. So live in 1, neutral in 2, and then the black one was in the number 4 which is NO (Normally open). The terminal 3 had nothing in it as you can see and is labelled NC (Normally closed). There is 240v across live and neutral wire, and the live and black wire at all times when power is on.
And this is how I did the new one. I did live and neutral into live and neutral. Then the black wire into the "LOAD ON" terminal.
Should I have done the black wire into the load off? Or do I need to bridge the live wire to the common? Or bridge neutral to common? Or will it never work?
EDIT:
Here is a guy installing the same but he has 4 core and earth cable and runs 2 switch wires to the top section. I can't do that as only have 3 core and earth, unless I cowboy it by using the earth earth and re-sheathing it. Don't really want to do that as then I will have to take apart the other end and re-wire.
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I bridged it and it's working a treat now thanks Richie!
The new Drayton seems to over read the temperature by a good half a degree or so. Maybe 0.7. Not sure what that's all about. Perhaps there is an offset setting somewhere in the hidden menus. Not really important, will just set it to level we feel comfortable anyway regardless what it reads.
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Replaced two taps. Why is everything always harder than planned! Main stop **** to house still lets a tiny bit of water through when shut off. Not ideal. Old isolation valves seized. None on the other tap at all. The isolation valves it does have, are put in really close to a bend, which is really close to the wall. Joy.
Anyway, drained the system down and got to work. Did a bit of a sin...reused the old olive and compression nut on the back of the old seized isolation valve but it seemed in good order. Whacked some jointing compound on and got it installed. I used the ones which terminate in a flat face on the other end for tap tails. Seem ok but I'm going to open and close them every few months to keep them working ok, so that when this Screwfix tap fails again in 2 years with its 10 year warranty, I can whack a new one in in 5 minutes, like the bathroom one I just did the other day.
The handle broke off this downstairs one the other day during my demonstration to the Mrs that the handle was stiff and she was just doing it wrong. :O
Flow rate was super high so I just toned it down with the isolation valves as this replacement tap does not have flow restrictors in the pack. All seems ok.
So one down one to go. Ensuite tap has been stiff since we moved in and needed replacing too. This time I used some overkill pegler full bore isolation valves with the great big handles, just because I have the room and liked the idea of them lasting longer and never having to worry again. I had more pipe showing this time so cut the old pipe back to remove the old fittings and then used tap tail adapters in the other end for the tap tails. This time flow restrictors were in the box so I used them and meant flow rate was fine. We have a good high pressure unvented system.
But look what nublet here left behind......
Yeah, the old compression nut just chillin there behind the new isolation valve. **** **** !
Anyway, drained the system down and got to work. Did a bit of a sin...reused the old olive and compression nut on the back of the old seized isolation valve but it seemed in good order. Whacked some jointing compound on and got it installed. I used the ones which terminate in a flat face on the other end for tap tails. Seem ok but I'm going to open and close them every few months to keep them working ok, so that when this Screwfix tap fails again in 2 years with its 10 year warranty, I can whack a new one in in 5 minutes, like the bathroom one I just did the other day.
The handle broke off this downstairs one the other day during my demonstration to the Mrs that the handle was stiff and she was just doing it wrong. :OFlow rate was super high so I just toned it down with the isolation valves as this replacement tap does not have flow restrictors in the pack. All seems ok.
So one down one to go. Ensuite tap has been stiff since we moved in and needed replacing too. This time I used some overkill pegler full bore isolation valves with the great big handles, just because I have the room and liked the idea of them lasting longer and never having to worry again. I had more pipe showing this time so cut the old pipe back to remove the old fittings and then used tap tail adapters in the other end for the tap tails. This time flow restrictors were in the box so I used them and meant flow rate was fine. We have a good high pressure unvented system.
But look what nublet here left behind......
Yeah, the old compression nut just chillin there behind the new isolation valve. **** **** !
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Sometimes I think all the years I spent doing DIY on cars has actually stood me in good stead for a lot of other DIY and general competence and understanding and use of tooling.
When I complain of things being tricky and tight on a DIY plumbing job, or I face a hurdle and have to improvise, I think back to some of the stuff I faced with tight engine bays in cars and it's a walk in the park in comparison.
Otherwise I think man jobs are just through sheer determination to succeed via trial and error, so we don't have to pay UK trade prices!
Do you think the title of the thread should remain so? I recognise that it's not very 2023 now and some females/they/thems may be deeply offended.
When I complain of things being tricky and tight on a DIY plumbing job, or I face a hurdle and have to improvise, I think back to some of the stuff I faced with tight engine bays in cars and it's a walk in the park in comparison.
Otherwise I think man jobs are just through sheer determination to succeed via trial and error, so we don't have to pay UK trade prices!
Do you think the title of the thread should remain so? I recognise that it's not very 2023 now and some females/they/thems may be deeply offended.
Installed a catflap for a mate. Bit of a faff in a UPVC door because the panelling had decorative elements at the bottom which got in the way of where the mounts were going but we got there. Pro tip: wear a mask. The insides of UPVC doors have this foam which when cut gets nasty AF.
Tested and labelled up all his ethernet ports installed in his new build back to utility room. Developers decided not to do that bit.
Added a load of things to his snagging list.
Then hung his OLED TV...
He was told the wall was cavity with studs but upon inspection it was dot and dabbed plasterboard over thermalite brick or breezeblocks. Armed with all the fixing types IN THE WORLD, we didn't have the corefix ones for dot and dab. Joy. So went and got some and made light work of the supplied LG G series bracket mount.
LG's plastic clips for cable routing on the back of their G series TVs which are meant to be able to sit flush to the wall, are terrible. The clips are meant to hold the cables in place tight to the back of the TV but they all unclip. Complete fail. So, much tape was used.
Then we cut out some plasterboard with my trusty dewalt multi tool vibrator thing in literally about 30 seconds. Whacked in some trunking and secured with two nails top and bottom. Put HDMI/ethernet/power cables in and trunking top back on. Then filler on top.
Waiting for it to dry.
Tested and labelled up all his ethernet ports installed in his new build back to utility room. Developers decided not to do that bit.
Added a load of things to his snagging list.
Then hung his OLED TV...
He was told the wall was cavity with studs but upon inspection it was dot and dabbed plasterboard over thermalite brick or breezeblocks. Armed with all the fixing types IN THE WORLD, we didn't have the corefix ones for dot and dab. Joy. So went and got some and made light work of the supplied LG G series bracket mount.
LG's plastic clips for cable routing on the back of their G series TVs which are meant to be able to sit flush to the wall, are terrible. The clips are meant to hold the cables in place tight to the back of the TV but they all unclip. Complete fail. So, much tape was used.
Then we cut out some plasterboard with my trusty dewalt multi tool vibrator thing in literally about 30 seconds. Whacked in some trunking and secured with two nails top and bottom. Put HDMI/ethernet/power cables in and trunking top back on. Then filler on top.
Waiting for it to dry.
There are multiple fixings you could use to mount a rad to plasterboard without using battens just in case you didn't know. I'm sure you do know, but just saying in case. (Grip it blues, spring toggles, snap toggles).
There is no denying the above batten method is strong.
But you've added complexity, time and effort to add those battens, cut the plasterboard, cut the insulation, cut the wood to size, seal the back of the wood, mount it, refinish/paint base coat, wait to dry, come back and do top coat to match wall.
A plasterboard fixing requires a single hole to be made the correct size, using a drill bit in about 3 seconds.
I'm all for doing a job properly for sure, but I'm not sure I'd bother with a 30 minute method* over a 3 second one. There are youtube vids of plasterboard fixings taking over 100kg before failure. Many people doubt them over years old weak plasterboard fixings that were rubbish. Today there is no reason to be afraid of mounting rads on plasterboard when you buy fixings that will do it for very little from your local screwfix. It's a huge time saver.
*30 minutes if your lucky. Add paint drying time etc and it will be more.
But you've added complexity, time and effort to add those battens, cut the plasterboard, cut the insulation, cut the wood to size, seal the back of the wood, mount it, refinish/paint base coat, wait to dry, come back and do top coat to match wall.
A plasterboard fixing requires a single hole to be made the correct size, using a drill bit in about 3 seconds.
I'm all for doing a job properly for sure, but I'm not sure I'd bother with a 30 minute method* over a 3 second one. There are youtube vids of plasterboard fixings taking over 100kg before failure. Many people doubt them over years old weak plasterboard fixings that were rubbish. Today there is no reason to be afraid of mounting rads on plasterboard when you buy fixings that will do it for very little from your local screwfix. It's a huge time saver.
*30 minutes if your lucky. Add paint drying time etc and it will be more.
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Hey guys. I have a bathroom mirror cabinet which is recessed into the tiling so replacement is not going to be easy both because of the potential damage I will do getting it out, plus it is 400 x 800mm as opposed to other more common sizes it seems. I have contacted manufacturer to get a replacement front door but I don't hold much hope as it's old and we got it with the house. Seems to not be made anymore.
Anyway...
I want to replace the front mirror door because the bottom edge of the mirror has done the classic de-silvering thing, where moisture has got to it and the backing starts to show through horrible looking black spots. If I can't get a new replacement door, do I have any other options? I've seen videos on youtube of people resilvering mirrors by pealing the backing off with chemicals and then pouring new chemicals over it to resilver it. However, I would think it easier to just get a new piece of mirror/glass made for me instead?
However, complications...
- The current mirror door seems to be a two piece job with 2 bits of mirror glass with a backing layer sandwiched between them.
- It's probably quite heavy.
- The "mirro" hinges appear to be the type that are bonded onto the back of the mirror door with some kind of adhesive applied at factory? Maybe this is why it's a two piece I don't know.
Any advice?
Front:
Backside is the same:
End on showing the sandwich construction:
The hinge. This is not a screw going into or through the glass. That bit does up onto an underneath metal plate with a lip to secure it to.
Anyway...
I want to replace the front mirror door because the bottom edge of the mirror has done the classic de-silvering thing, where moisture has got to it and the backing starts to show through horrible looking black spots. If I can't get a new replacement door, do I have any other options? I've seen videos on youtube of people resilvering mirrors by pealing the backing off with chemicals and then pouring new chemicals over it to resilver it. However, I would think it easier to just get a new piece of mirror/glass made for me instead?
However, complications...
- The current mirror door seems to be a two piece job with 2 bits of mirror glass with a backing layer sandwiched between them.
- It's probably quite heavy.
- The "mirro" hinges appear to be the type that are bonded onto the back of the mirror door with some kind of adhesive applied at factory? Maybe this is why it's a two piece I don't know.
Any advice?
Front:
Backside is the same:
End on showing the sandwich construction:
The hinge. This is not a screw going into or through the glass. That bit does up onto an underneath metal plate with a lip to secure it to.
I mean as long as she's happy. I preferred the old colour!
I also would have left the radiators and skirting white.