What "man jobs" have you done today?

Took apart an Oculus Quest controller and fixed the snapped trigger internally, with parts from a donor one. 14 screws, flimsy plastic clips and delicate ribbon cables. Tricky one. All done and working.
 
I made awesome progress last night with the TV wall in the kitchen.

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Yes, that is 2 pencil lines drawn level on the wall. I know.
I need to spur off that socket on the left, and add another on the right to the end of the pencil lines. But as you can see there is a section of wall that sticks out there. I don't really know what's in it. lol
This is the end of my kitchen which is extended and has a pitched roof above it. The power wires going into the socket actually come in from the top (probs due to underfloor heating?) and go out again as well so assume it is not the last one on loop. I was going to basically just channel from left, all along the wall to the new location and try to sort of drill/multi tool out the wall behind the pillar bit, as opposed to channelling literally around the outside of the pillar bit. My concern is that inside the pillar bit is some kind of steel support. Or it could be brick? That outside wall is double brick thickness and bare plaster rendered straight onto the wall internally. The pillar bit sounds a mixture of hollow and solid. What would you do? Make some discovery drill holes?
 
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I would make a small test drill to see what was being pushed out by the drill.
Is that wall either side of that support, brick or plasterboard.

It's plaster on brick. None of it is plasterboard I don't think. Silly question, the "support" we are calling it, would never be added for purely decorative purposes would it? i.e. It must exist as a support as such. It is about the shape/size of a single brick actually looking at it. Perhaps an RSJ sits above each support. There is one identical the other side of the back of the kitchen if you were to turn 180degreess and look behind you from the pic above.
 
is there not a steel in the ceiling holding up the original wall above from the extension?

It’s not thick enough to be a soil stack so it being a support column is the obvious answer.

It may be better to split the ring in the ceiling than chase through a structural support. It depends on how big a hole you intend to make.

It is possible that they are supports for an RSJ and would imo look a bit odd if added just for decorations purposes.

If me, I would check out the support first and if enough room would drill at a slight angle both sides, to almost make a channel that would run behind the support.

Sorry for poor info/pics. Above that "support" is simply a pitched ground floor roof. So the back of my kitchen has been extended out a few meters and a pitched roof added with sky light windows in. So the outer most part of the roof hanging above the bifolds to the left of the pic, is probably supported by an RSJ running across the back of the kitchen, set above each support column.
If I try to take the socket feed from inside the ceiling I don't know if the RSJ presumed to be in place will also become a factor getting from one side to the other of it. Hmm. Alternative is that I could grab a feed from the downlights in the ceiling but I know that's majorly frowned upon as light circuit should remain separate and will be fused down to probably 6amps. I mean it will only be a TV and very low power stuff but still...
 
Surface mounted trunking? Wash your mouths out. ;)
I'm not qualified either. That's generally a requirement upon entering thread. ;) I think the options are as I imagined:

1: Channel out literally around and on the pillar support which is presumably made of brick. Hopefully will not affect structure if I don't go to deep.
or
2: Try going through/behind the support.

I feel like 2 will make a massive mess and be a PITA angling the hole but would be the better one for maintaining structural support.
 
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When I said why do you need an extra socket, what I meant was you've already got a socket right there, so you could just use an extension lead, albeit with some trunking or something else to hide it if necessary.

"Right there" being a couple of metres away behind a pillar. I'd prefer a clean look and don't want to run trunking to be honest. I have done don't get me wrong but I want a socket there otherwise things get complicated and cluttered.
 
Thanks. I noticed this crack/fill job at the top of the wall as well.

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Always been there since we moved in but now I come to think about it more, it seems that this is most likely how they routed the power wires to this socket. This crack goes across the wall above where the TV will be, about 12 inches down from the ceiling, then disappears into another support column in the middle of the room and then behind some kitchen cupboards. My stud detector reckons it finds electrical cable when I go over it as well. Hmm.
So I could take a feed off of this directly above the TV, and then come straight down the wall but...how does one tap into wires like this? Is that even a thing? I would have to carefully cut into the wall to not damage the cables, make a big enough area around said cables, to allow me to cut them back and tee into one of them with wago connectors to then start a run down the wall, then fill all the plaster back in. Am I making sense?
TLDR, horizontal ring cables will most likely be running just above where the TV will go on that wall and can I tap into them and just go straight vertically down to the socket?
 
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Understood. Yeah the socket that exists in the picture is on a ring. I came to that conclusion based on:

a) It has two sets of wires going in/out of it
b) It is on a 32 amp breaker

I think the simplest method is going to be drilling in behind the pillar thing and channelling all along the wall from existing socket to the location I want a new one. I'll come back to thread when the roof falls down and you can all laugh.

EDIT: Or I could do what @dlockers says, but do the wagos have to be able to be got to? i.e. A single square backbox with a blanking plate over the top? Might look a bit naff.
 
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Totally agree - no issue with Wagos being used, just meant that they couldn't go straight into the wall.

Afaik you have to have connections either behind a socket, or in an accessible junction box / steel back box with with blanking plate - there isn't any other way to comply with regulations

Right yeah, sorry missed this comment. Hmm. Food for thought cheers guys.
 
I've had that fear with so many cement and similar based compounds as I've had some bad experiences with only slightly out of date products over the years (I've been house renovating for more than 3 decades).

However about 6 years ago I bought a number of air large tight containers (25 to 50 litre) and now I store all cement, plaster, filler and similar products in them from purchase and once opened. I've found the products last really well and far beyond the expected date with no long term effects (finishing plaster is one where its obvious its past best even during application). Air exposure isn't the only factor but its given me more confidence to not throw so much away as readily.
Interesting you bring that up. I have a 3 year old bag of Easi Fill 60 filler still about 3kg left I reckon. I used it the other day for a small area. Seemed completely as I remember it. Noticed the bag says 1 year use by date. It's been stored with the top simply rolled back down and taped over, in a shed, that gets over 30 in summer and under zero in winter.
 
I've got to fill some chases on the inside of my downstairs external wall in the kitchen. I've read online that Thistle Bonding is not good on downstairs external walls because it can attract damp, and that I should use just sand and cement as the main fill, then normal surface filler like easi fill for the final few mm. What say you fellow ocuk man jobbers?

Edit. Wall is plaster straight over brick. (Not plasterboard)
 
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Well I'm annoyed.
Decorating the kitchen and I decided to not settle for cheap roller sleeves and brushes so I went to my local Brewers decorating centre to pick up some stuff. I went for some Microfibre Albany sleeves, which I believe now to be Brewers own brand ones possibly? I thought they were high quality but they've just shed throughout application completely, leaving bits all over the ceiling and walls. I only realised about half way round the room. I've had to go round picking them out and sanding back.

I wetted the sleeves and squeezed them out before use. I didn't do the wrap tape around them thing though to pull out all the loose bits of fibres. During use, even big full length fibres just pull out. Absolute ****. I thought I was getting something decent as they were trade sized sleeves for trade rollers.

Shall I go for Purdy or Hamilton ones or something else? Where to buy? I need something short or medium pile as walls already quite smooth.

Edit. Forgot to also say the Albany brushes were equally poor. Lost loads of brush hairs in the paint. They weren't cheap either.
 
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Took another length of gutter down - cleaned it out then did sofits and gutter brackets - All back up now - Got to stage where I can only do one at a time - Other good thing is we have a bungalow which makes it dead easy.
Only three more lengths to go.
I've got some gutters I want cleaning but I want the high ones done which is 3 stories high, dormer roof loft conversion. When I asked a local guy that knocked on my door one time, he said he couldn't do that high. So err...how do people get them done? Long poles? Scaffolding erections?
 
I decided to tackle a job I'd been putting off for a while. Fixing our squeaky bed. Remarkably, it wasn't the Ottoman hinges, nor the actual pieces of wood forming any framing. It was.... cardboard. Yes cardboard. The top section that flips up had a layer of perhaps 5mm cardboard all over the top pieces of wood, directly under the first piece of fabric. For some reason, it's in two parts, and where they meet, they had laid one piece over another by an inch or so. Every you moved in bed, the mattress would push down and slightly pull the join section down, causing the overlaid part to rub against the other. I cannot believe two pieces of thin cardboard could cause so much noise.

I "modified" it with a knife, cutting out the overlap. It provides no real strength anyway. Now I just have to staple the thin under felt layer back on. Squeak free bed and love making.
 
Having received my replacement brand new LG TV remote due to the old one dying, I immediately spilt beer all over it and had to take the **** apart to stop sticking buttons.
Then I baked an apple pie and got told off for not bringing the filo pastry down to room temp before using it.
Dang.
At least I can have a quiet evening now....oh wait. It's Halloween.
 
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