Yep, been meaning to map out the flow around the house. At least some of it is in parallel as it branches directly from the boiler. Don't know if straight zoning would be beneficial but deffo worth considering e.g. ground floor with utility and garage is almost never going to need heating after work hours...I'm no expert but I'd say you need to learn how the rads flow to make any semblance of a saving. Maybe knock some off and see which ones still get warm and how quickly. In a 3 story town house (I think that's what you have?) It may be worth getting a plumber in to zone it off so you have two stats?
Edit: the stats can "request" heat as well, so for rooms you are particularly bothered about, e.g. nursery in my case, it can switch the heating on and then all the other TRVs close to avoid overheating the house.
The Mrs asked for some new shelves in the airing cupboard two years ago after they were ripped out for the cylinder change, and today I finally finished the job
It was actually surprisingly difficult, I used the existing batons on the wall which are quite narrow, and it made it awkward to get screws in (I don't own any nails).
I put a rail in there for hangers. Is it worth treating the wood with something?
Additional measures to try to keep some of the heat in. Used some left over underlay to add a bit of insulation to an a internal/external door (the outer space is much colder).
Added the lower pad because the dogs always scratch that spot when they want to come in, and this stuff is pretty delicate.
Pretty sure you can get all those types of bits for standard size piping at b&q / homebase.Kitchen sink with a washing machine. It’s a hunter downpipe and I seem to have found the part but no where I can just pickup. Needs rotating to the wall after I cut the hole.
https://www.jtatkinson.co.uk/hunter...MI8uSQwNjO-wIVz9LtCh2YmwDLEAQYAiABEgJgJPD_BwE
Kitchen sink with a washing machine. It’s a hunter downpipe and I seem to have found the part but no where I can just pickup. Needs rotating to the wall after I cut the hole.
https://www.jtatkinson.co.uk/hunter...MI8uSQwNjO-wIVz9LtCh2YmwDLEAQYAiABEgJgJPD_BwE
I'm no expert but I'd say you need to learn how the rads flow to make any semblance of a saving. Maybe knock some off and see which ones still get warm and how quickly. In a 3 story town house (I think that's what you have?) It may be worth getting a plumber in to zone it off so you have two stats?
Edit: the stats can "request" heat as well, so for rooms you are particularly bothered about, e.g. nursery in my case, it can switch the heating on and then all the other TRVs close to avoid overheating the house.
I would have thought you could balance with trvs, or do you set them to max then regulate the locks hired, then set the trv to you preferred setting?The purpose of the Tado heads is to give you room-by-room control. What they will never do is balance your system for you, which is something that people need to do desperately. I've managed to double my dT this week, from 8C to about 14C, which is a big improvement. With Tado, you're not increasing efficiency in any way, just cutting off heat sources to rooms.