What "man jobs" have you done today?

I think i bought these tado valves nearly 18months ago but have only now installed (most) of them. Previously I had only used the main hub + one for my office.

Still got a bedroom to add which needs radiator rehanging



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Wasn't sure if it would look great with anthracite radiators but seems fine
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I'll give them a go thank you! I did get itchy feet during the little ones nap and tried Homebase's finest - garbage tbh. The spring either is nonexistent or pathetic. Looks decent tho! Must be the fourth or fifth handle this door has ever had!

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fifth or sixth door handle**

Couldn't cope without it being spring loaded so got these from Amazon.

Super daft that the rod between them
1) doesn't have a grub screw
2) isn't long enough
A bit of chopped up chop stick solved the problem...odd.

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Also set my Hue Lily to festive!

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I think i bought these tado valves nearly 18months ago but have only now installed (most) of them. Previously I had only used the main hub + one for my office.

Still got a bedroom to add which needs radiator rehanging

How do you go about doing this? Do you have to drain the system?
 
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How do you go about doing this? Do you have to drain the system?
No, theyre just actuated (ie mechanically operated by battery) heads which move the existing thermostatic radiator valves.

I think hive does some which are the valves themselves (which you'd need to drain system for).
 
I've not seen those Hive ones you mention but I'll be fitting my old Hives to the bedrooms tomorrow with any luck.

N.b. I've found only fitting them to rooms "that matter" is a cost saver, unless you really need the temp data. E.g. my nursery needs to stay above 17/18 so it can trigger the heating, same for my bedroom. All the other rads are just "on".
 
I've not seen those Hive ones you mention but I'll be fitting my old Hives to the bedrooms tomorrow with any luck.

N.b. I've found only fitting them to rooms "that matter" is a cost saver, unless you really need the temp data. E.g. my nursery needs to stay above 17/18 so it can trigger the heating, same for my bedroom. All the other rads are just "on".

Yeah I don't know if it's really a cost saver, but it's more a quality of life thing. We bought a house which is currently too big for us (1700square foot, 3beds, 2 offices, 2 living rooms, 4 bathrooms) and just so the heating primarily is on in the rooms we're in/using. We've also got gas fires in 2 rooms.

The regulation of flow is interesting and I'd be more interested to understand how they try do it to balance the system or if its just dumb "rally the heat until the desired temp is met"
 
I've not seen those Hive ones you mention but I'll be fitting my old Hives to the bedrooms tomorrow with any luck.

N.b. I've found only fitting them to rooms "that matter" is a cost saver, unless you really need the temp data. E.g. my nursery needs to stay above 17/18 so it can trigger the heating, same for my bedroom. All the other rads are just "on".

I've been trying to come up with a plan for these, but I think as they can only limit flow, I'd need lots of them to make sure unneeded rooms stay cold. Whereas I'd rather buy 3 or 4 for the rooms we specifically want to heat outside routine hours. Any suggestions? Is it to do with demanding more from the boiler instead?
 
I've been trying to come up with a plan for these, but I think as they can only limit flow, I'd need lots of them to make sure unneeded rooms stay cold. Whereas I'd rather buy 3 or 4 for the rooms we specifically want to heat outside routine hours. Any suggestions? Is it to do with demanding more from the boiler instead?
I'm no expert but I'd say you need to learn how the rads flow to make any semblance of a saving. Maybe knock some off and see which ones still get warm and how quickly. In a 3 story town house (I think that's what you have?) It may be worth getting a plumber in to zone it off so you have two stats?

Edit: the stats can "request" heat as well, so for rooms you are particularly bothered about, e.g. nursery in my case, it can switch the heating on and then all the other TRVs close to avoid overheating the house.
 
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I've been trying to come up with a plan for these, but I think as they can only limit flow, I'd need lots of them to make sure unneeded rooms stay cold. Whereas I'd rather buy 3 or 4 for the rooms we specifically want to heat outside routine hours. Any suggestions? Is it to do with demanding more from the boiler instead?
Yeah you would need them on the rooms you'd like to isolate.

As I move around the house over the day/weekend and wfh I've got them all modulating.... We shall see if it works well or if I end up selling them as a "dumb" system is easier to program /operate :D

Theres a seperate issue about boiler efficiency changing with flow throughput, but I imagine the overall efficiency of what you want (ie certain spaces heated) defeats this.
 
Finally got around to terminating all my networking and POE cables to various network switches and CCTV cams into patch panels and then made some custom patch cables.

A bit tight for space where all the cables come together, so had to figure something out wall mounted instead of using a rack.

From this:
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To this:
:D

Why not a vertical wall bracket? Could have had a full size patch panel then and just rack mounted the switch - would have been much neater
 
Can you link an image? Can't picture what you mean?

I can't imagine it would have worked though. Got built in cupboards on the left, and cupboards on the right along with a TV.
The skinny section of wall I used was all I really had to work with, short of ceiling mounting something. And if anything protruded much more than it does, it would hinder opening the cupboards.


EDIT: Do you mean a vertical patch panel? I did actually order one and planned to use that at first, however some of the cables I had were very thick external ones and it would have been too tight to run that many cables up through a vertical patch panel.
Plus, vertical patch panels are pretty chunky, and again, the depth would have hindered being able to open the cupboard.
 
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Pruned the Kilmarnock Willow I planted earlier this year after it took off after the new growth on the branches added about 4 feet of length to them just over the Summer.

From this:
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To this:
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Then a hair cut:
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Could have left a couple of branches a little longer but It should come back again in the Spring again and grow lower.

Ignore the bare soil. It's a section I am turning to wildflowers in the Spring so I've stripped it of vegetation via sheeting for a couple of months then I dug it over to let the frost and Winter months do its job.... Sowing seed around March 2023.
 
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