Yeah I went to swap it over last night at like 9pm and saw this.... thought I'd defer it to fresh eyes lol.
What "man jobs" have you done today?
- Thread starter jaybee
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Mine used to be all roses with a million cables, I switched it all into wagos in the void and just droppers down to the lights for S/L and neutral/ Earth can be used or not, but still should be terminated into a connector not just cut. Take pictures before removing anything so if you **** it up you can put it all back right 
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As not weird at all and it’s the ‘normal’ way of doing things.
There are two ways of normally wiring lighting circuits, doing the above or doing the same thing but at the switch instead of the light. My house has a mixture of both which is more interesting.
You can of course have the same setup in a junction box in the ceiling, but inaccessible junction boxes should be avoided.
I wouldn’t push the cables up into the ceiling, technically they should be in a junction box if you do that but just the practicality of getting them back without making a mess can be very difficult.
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I’m fairly sure there are smart switches that can be deployed in either scenario. The logic is either placed in the ceiling with a wireless switch or at the switch plate.
Switches often have very slim back boxes (no socket pins to house) so that also needs to be considered.
Switches often have very slim back boxes (no socket pins to house) so that also needs to be considered.
The red sleeved one goes to neutral in the rose but I guess the sleeving is more of a proactive action than wiring it into the very tiny labelled rose.
All done, cheers chaps:
10 points if you can spot where I slipped with the impact gun, ffs.
I did the same thing yesterday only I was driving in a hefty screw into one of the studs in the wall, slipped and made a nice hole in the plasterboards that’s impact driver size/shape
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Soldato
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Just put a brighter light in, as you’ll be squinting you won't see itAll done, cheers chaps:
10 points if you can spot where I slipped with the impact gun, ffs.
That's not a slip, that's a different post code..All done, cheers chaps:
10 points if you can spot where I slipped with the impact gun, ffs.
Soldato
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If you don't want to pull a new wire between the rose and the switch to bring a neutral down, just fit the smart box behind the rose.
Benefit: as b0rn2sk8 says it will likely fit better up there than squeezing it into the backbox
Drawback: resetting the smart doodad needs a ladder instead of just a screwdriver.
This concerns me but I haven't had another look at the photo. Switched live should be going towards the bulb, via the smaller 2-way terminal.
Just checked -- I was changing two lights and they were both different. One had the switched lived going into the rose labelled "neutral" and one had it going into the smaller 2-way marked live. So I guess he didn't pay much attention to the very hard to read label on the rose and just labelled the wires with a sleeve.
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Soldato
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The coloured sleeve is technically a requirement... If the switched live goes into the neutral then where is its source? What goes into the switched live terminal?
I appreciate this all works and has for ages but it's still bothering me
I mean the rose itself had a label as part of the manufacturing process punched into it. It was barely visible; I guess the sparky ignored the label and just used the terminal ignoring the label.The coloured sleeve is technically a requirement... If the switched live goes into the neutral then where is its source? What goes into the switched live terminal?
I appreciate this all works and has for ages but it's still bothering me
I've not decided what floor I want in the house yet but I'm certain I want it to be wood (or wood lookalike). I've got lots of dodgy boards and some part boards part chipboard sheets. Would you guys recommend covering everything in ply to get a good surface to fix onto?
Some of the boards are so battered that otherwise I'll end up lifting them all to put new chipboard but the expense is high and it still may not be perfectly level. Thoughts?
Some of the boards are so battered that otherwise I'll end up lifting them all to put new chipboard but the expense is high and it still may not be perfectly level. Thoughts?
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Subfloor prep can be a pain - once you’ve chosen the product you’ll generally get a steer as to what you need but likely be between a 6-12mm staggered ply, possibly with a feathering compound between sheets.
Depends if you're going real wood, glued LVT, or floating laminate/engineered wood.
The latter with an underlay you probably don't need to bother.
Managed to throw up the wallpaper in the WC despite an 11 hour shift. Tired eyes so will inspect tomorrow, but I am very pleased with my splicing around the window.
N.b. is there anything I can do about the window, other than replacing it? Obviously a really good clean -- but can you get nice replacement handles?
N.b. is there anything I can do about the window, other than replacing it? Obviously a really good clean -- but can you get nice replacement handles?
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Managed to throw up the wallpaper in the WC despite an 11 hour shift. Tired eyes so will inspect tomorrow, but I am very pleased with my splicing around the window.
N.b. is there anything I can do about the window, other than replacing it? Obviously a really good clean -- but can you get nice replacement handles?
I had very similar looking in some of my windows and replaced with these - https://www.toolstation.com/era-pvc...rwkA0jzVJBVx3H5wE3saArXDEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds