Thanks, that's definitely something to consider, our kitchen floor is a bit on the chilly side in winter.
What "man jobs" have you done today?
- Thread starter jaybee
- Start date
Thanks, that's definitely something to consider, our kitchen floor is a bit on the chilly side in winter.
Soldato
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- 13 Aug 2004
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Started work on a larger shed as I have quickly outgrown the 6'x8' one. I've made up the rear panel out of CLS with Onduline cladding (DPC, breather membrane, battens etc), it's quite lightweight and easy to work with/ knock up.
Hm, I moved some furniture around the room, had to fix some of it (the closet door got pretty wonky). I dunno if that really counts as "man jobs".
The hardest thing is to bring a pack of 6 bottles from the store which are 1 liter each. I usually put it in the big ikea bag on my shoulder.
The hardest thing is to bring a pack of 6 bottles from the store which are 1 liter each. I usually put it in the big ikea bag on my shoulder.
I applied bitumen paint to the entire back wall of the shed and all around the base (nasty stuff).
I bought 2 8x4 sheets of 18mm osb and had them cut to size to lay on top of existing old shed floor.
Struggled like hell to get (now four) boards into the car and driven home safely.
To lay the first board down, I had to prop up a 'mezzanine' I had previously built in the shed whilst I sawed 18mm off the bottom of the supporting post, so I could slide the new board underneath the post and not have the whole structure collapse
The rest of the floor needs to be drier and probably painted over with hardner before the last boards are laid down. No idea how and when that can happen as the storm has arrived a d rain for the next week.
I bought 2 8x4 sheets of 18mm osb and had them cut to size to lay on top of existing old shed floor.
Struggled like hell to get (now four) boards into the car and driven home safely.
To lay the first board down, I had to prop up a 'mezzanine' I had previously built in the shed whilst I sawed 18mm off the bottom of the supporting post, so I could slide the new board underneath the post and not have the whole structure collapse
The rest of the floor needs to be drier and probably painted over with hardner before the last boards are laid down. No idea how and when that can happen as the storm has arrived a d rain for the next week.
I so nearly just went down the route of building a new shed myself, but full try and save the existing one (for now)
Soldato
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- 25 Sep 2012
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- 3,213
Maybe go a different direction? Barbie Pink is so hot right now.Quite cross with DIY Kitchens. I went to place a smaller (£550) order to do my utility room in a matching units to my kitchen - but the min spend is £750!
what's the quality of DIY kitchens like? I'm looking at them for a possible order and they look to be very good value when compared to the likes of HOwdensQuite cross with DIY Kitchens. I went to place a smaller (£550) order to do my utility room in a matching units to my kitchen - but the min spend is £750!
Gosforth handyman did a review a few months back
DIY Kitchens - HONEST REVIEW!
It’s time for a quick review of DIY Kitchens. This video is NOT SPONSORED. They didn’t know I was reviewing them at the time as I’d rather get an honest appr...
www.youtube.com
We have a DIY kitchen and it’s decent, well made and their tools were easy to use. The support was also decent, the delivery had a missing item and damaged piece which they dealt with quickly and hassle free.
I’d recommend going to their show room to have a look. It’s just outside Leeds.
I’d recommend going to their show room to have a look. It’s just outside Leeds.
Associate
- Joined
- 23 Dec 2008
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- 1,049
And you get free cakes and drinks in the showroom!
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Ah yes I forgot about that!And you get free cakes and drinks in the showroom!
I had an utterly miserable time the other day with the taps in the downstairs WC.
I knew they were an utter pig to do from the last time I had to replace them due to the mini basin, the work of art piping (proper "this plumber has been doing this for decades job) with hand bent pipes etc, and all of about a quarter of an inch of play, so I'd bought a new tap wrench and thought I'd allow a couple of hours...
4 hours later, 3 trips to screwfix for additional tools, having to hacksaw with about 3cm movement one of the pipes (there was no space at all for any of my pipe cutters, including the "wrap around" ones), and finding out the stop valves in the airing cupboard had seized and they were replaced.
On the plus side I know have ALL the tab wrenches box spanners you could ever need and the downstairs taps are now on flexi hoses with stop valves...
So today I tackled the valves in the airing cupboard, expecting the worst I'd bought several different valves (of a good brand*), I was very pleasantly surprised when apart from having to work the adjustable spanners** about an eighth of a turn at a time I was able to get them in without any issues, and I've left them so the handles are accessible without emptying the entire airing cupboard as the old ones facing away from the door.
I've also set a reminder on the phone so that every 3 months i'll nag me to operate the valves.
It was interesting to note the new Pegler valves (apparently Yorkshire made, and twice the price***) appear to use much heavier metal on the likes of the the wheel of the "gate" valve, and it's a larger wheel with rounded spokes so you can actually get a grip on it. So for anyone else facing the horrors of plumbing I'd recommend looking at them if you need a gate valve, they feel much more sturdy and easier to use than the cheap ones that had been fitted.
*In the end I used the long lever ball valves, and have kept the stopcock and gate style ones as spares.
**Next up for the plumbing box is a pair of spanners that fit the compression valve nuts, I've got a bunch of other spanners in there of various types, but not a "standard" spanner that natively fits them (or better yet one with thinner tines), and I'm not sure how..
***Looking at them they're aimed at commercial/industrial use so presumably heavier duty/tighter tolerances (the ball valves with lever's that I used are apparently rated for air, gas, oil and water).
I knew they were an utter pig to do from the last time I had to replace them due to the mini basin, the work of art piping (proper "this plumber has been doing this for decades job) with hand bent pipes etc, and all of about a quarter of an inch of play, so I'd bought a new tap wrench and thought I'd allow a couple of hours...
4 hours later, 3 trips to screwfix for additional tools, having to hacksaw with about 3cm movement one of the pipes (there was no space at all for any of my pipe cutters, including the "wrap around" ones), and finding out the stop valves in the airing cupboard had seized and they were replaced.
On the plus side I know have ALL the tab wrenches box spanners you could ever need and the downstairs taps are now on flexi hoses with stop valves...
So today I tackled the valves in the airing cupboard, expecting the worst I'd bought several different valves (of a good brand*), I was very pleasantly surprised when apart from having to work the adjustable spanners** about an eighth of a turn at a time I was able to get them in without any issues, and I've left them so the handles are accessible without emptying the entire airing cupboard as the old ones facing away from the door.
I've also set a reminder on the phone so that every 3 months i'll nag me to operate the valves.
It was interesting to note the new Pegler valves (apparently Yorkshire made, and twice the price***) appear to use much heavier metal on the likes of the the wheel of the "gate" valve, and it's a larger wheel with rounded spokes so you can actually get a grip on it. So for anyone else facing the horrors of plumbing I'd recommend looking at them if you need a gate valve, they feel much more sturdy and easier to use than the cheap ones that had been fitted.
*In the end I used the long lever ball valves, and have kept the stopcock and gate style ones as spares.
**Next up for the plumbing box is a pair of spanners that fit the compression valve nuts, I've got a bunch of other spanners in there of various types, but not a "standard" spanner that natively fits them (or better yet one with thinner tines), and I'm not sure how..
***Looking at them they're aimed at commercial/industrial use so presumably heavier duty/tighter tolerances (the ball valves with lever's that I used are apparently rated for air, gas, oil and water).
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Soldato
- Joined
- 13 Aug 2004
- Posts
- 8,369
- Location
- England
Continued with the workshop/ shed today, got the side panels knocked up.
I think I saw the govee light strips on offer on hotukdeals the other day. Looked decent for the money and probably what I am going to end up using.
Replaced timber posts/fence at bottom of the garden with concrete posts and gravel boards, cost about 15% more than timber option..
What made in "manly", is that i live in a relatively new housing estate and the developers appeared to mixed half of their excess hardcore/limestone into the soil. Each 2 foot hole took about 40 minutes!
What made in "manly", is that i live in a relatively new housing estate and the developers appeared to mixed half of their excess hardcore/limestone into the soil. Each 2 foot hole took about 40 minutes!
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People who have used spankers for tiling systems --- does this look right or am I doing it the hard way?
I plan to board out the enclosed porch; the 20mm stuff is for the door reveals.
What glue should I use? Plan is tile and render!
Thank you.
Also,
I plan to board out the enclosed porch; the 20mm stuff is for the door reveals.
What glue should I use? Plan is tile and render!
Thank you.
Also,
I emailed them and they said it's fine - as long as I have met minimum spend overall they'll do it for meQuite cross with DIY Kitchens. I went to place a smaller (£550) order to do my utility room in a matching units to my kitchen - but the min spend is £750!