Yes they are from Ick Ear.
So far they seem to be good value are easy to build if alone and are quite bold even in a large room.
I've still got more to build, but am already looking at buying more to fill other areas of the bedroom.
What "man jobs" have you done today?
- Thread starter jaybee
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Yes they are from Ick Ear.
So far they seem to be good value are easy to build if alone and are quite bold even in a large room.
I've still got more to build, but am already looking at buying more to fill other areas of the bedroom.
Noob question ahoy. We had 2 spotlights installed in our box room. I assumed they used the commonly used GU bulbs but when trying to unscrew one that stopped working, it had two small screws holding the housing and a further 2 behind it. It's a mechanism I don't recognise. I guess the fitting has to be fully replaced? I checked in the loft and found one of the lights (the working one) under insulation wired to a box (was a little warm under there). Me moving the box stopped the working light, so something seems loose. Not entirely sure how the sparky got to the other one as it's under boards in the loft.
Do I replace the fitting from above? Is that box safe under the insulation?
That doesn't look like a standard GU10, its a whole unit replacement job. That also means buying more than one because who has mismatched downlights in the same room...
P.S. whoever fitted that needs to be told not to do it again, single insulated cable showing is a big no no. Probably a DIY as no self respecting electrician would leave it like that.
When you replace it, there should not be anything other than the grey cable visible. You just pull them down from below, there loos to be plenty of slack on that.
I've got Loftleg Loft Lids on mine, not sure they are needed as they are covered in insulation anyway so it is not like the heat can escape, it just keeps the insulation off them. https://www.screwfix.com/p/loftleg-loft-lid-downlight-protector-155mm/327tl
Informative, thank you. It was supposedly a sparky/general tradesman we got through our painter/decorator, should have got our actual sparky in hindsight. Are replacing the bulb units doable DIY or should a sparky do it?
That guy and Artisan Electrics has been talked about on here before. He's err....shall we say...reknown for being a little pricey? Just had a youtube shorts video pop up for me and it was him asking if something was a good way of doing something or not and the top comment was gold:
"Better than having you do it for £15k + Vat"
Really clutching at straws here but noticed we had an extension lead perched directly under the radiator bleed valve which looks like it may have been weeping. Could the weeping water have gone in the extension lead and tripped the MCB? That would kind of correlate to the times as radiators weep when cooling from hot to cold.
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Fitted a new granite composite sink and waste pipework.
Had a job once at a Rugby club with some of our equipment blowing up - Seems they had a double socket on the floor right under the beer taps -We heard that club members had got shocks while in shower.
So yes any water dripping on a live electric fitting could be the cause.
So yes any water dripping on a live electric fitting could be the cause.
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Popped up a couple of shelves, and replaced our Integrated dishwasher, which went better than expected.
When I replaced our integrated washing machine a few years ago, the house builders had plumbed the pipe for the outside tap, behind the kickboards, but in front of the washing machine.
When I replaced our integrated washing machine a few years ago, the house builders had plumbed the pipe for the outside tap, behind the kickboards, but in front of the washing machine.
Had 5 sheets of 37.5mm insulated plasterboard leftover from my office renovation. Bought it at £38 a sheet and stuck it on FB marketplace for £30 a sheet not thinking I'd have any interest. Literally had over 15 messages asking for it! Definitely underpriced it...
Had a closer inspection of our dodgy (one stopped working, the other is loose so only works when you fiddle with the fitting in the loft) down lights. And found the exact replacement. Some reviews do complain about loose connections and termination issues. Just trying to figure out the best way to fix it as the with one shown below. Should I restrip so the grey/double insulation is in the box?
And just to be crystal clear on the steps:
And just to be crystal clear on the steps:
- Turn off power for these lights at CU (I've identified which on the schedule)
- Remove current fittings and box (one is accessible in the loft, I think the sparky did the other through the hole in the room itself)
- Re-terminate in boxes exactly as how it was and hey presto?
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Soldato
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Yes take this opportunity to trim the cable and terminate it properly 
1. You may find if you just switch off the circuit fuse/MCB then you trip the related RCD when you cut the neutral and earth or if they touch.
Likewise, a neutral conductor can be considered not safe as it's part of the circuit returning current to zero potential... Some say it's not risky. Personally due to both above points I've taken to removing the neutral wire from the CU when I work on stuff if I want to leave the house otherwise powered up.
2, yes, 3, yes!
1. You may find if you just switch off the circuit fuse/MCB then you trip the related RCD when you cut the neutral and earth or if they touch.
Likewise, a neutral conductor can be considered not safe as it's part of the circuit returning current to zero potential... Some say it's not risky. Personally due to both above points I've taken to removing the neutral wire from the CU when I work on stuff if I want to leave the house otherwise powered up.
2, yes, 3, yes!
The lad I worked part time for when I retired owned a factory in Wolverhampton - opposite was kitchen unit place that went bust - He told my mate help yourself to what you want - His lofts and mine were layered with large MDF sheets and smaller stuff we cut/hammered into Hot blocks - we had tons of it and it did get hot. Never had a flue problem and we both lived out in sticks.
Good old days - I am talking 20+ yrs ago when even logs were free/cheap. Good old days.
Good old days - I am talking 20+ yrs ago when even logs were free/cheap. Good old days.
Soldato
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Does chipboard have any nasty chemicals in when burnt or otherwise? I know lots of MDF does in the glue. I've found chipboard flooring blunts my saws but don't know if that's the fibres or glue or something else.
I would imagine the resins that's used to bond it will release pretty toxic stuff if you burn it.