What to look for when buying a bike?

[BennyC]

I the near future I will be needing to purchase my first bike. Knowing very little about bikes this is a bit of a grey area for me.

It'll be a sports bike and other than cosmetics and basic mechanics and a visual inspection I'm not really sure what I should be looking for that would either tell me 'This is a tidy bike' or 'Run for the hills this is a death trap'.

A few things to check that I can think of:

A chain that isn't slack, is well oiled & cared for. Likewise with the sprockets.
Discs that aren't badly or unevenly worn. Likewise with the pads (if these can be seen).
Shocks that aren't cracked, leaking, have seen better days or don't feel particularly healthy (whatever this feels like).
A cold start, checking for blue smoke, white is acceptable if it's a cold day so I've read.
A warm start.
A good idle, not coughing and spluttering.
Clutch, all gears can engage and that it's not throwing itself out of gear or refusing to select.
Tyres for good tread depth, cracks, bulges.
Exhaust for blows/poor condition.
Color & condition of oil and that it's not dry and been neglected.

These are a few things I can think of. I'm sure there is more including bike specific and common problems. The bike is question is a ZX6R, before anybody goes first bike ZX6R etc etc I am aware that the bike in question is very powerful and that bikes are unforgiving and as such demand respect. Until I've got some miles under my belt & experience with it I probably won't see the wrong side of the speed limit for a while until I'm familiar with it.

I can drive my 182 like an OAP so feel I have the self restraint required not to land myself in hospital. Of course a defensive riding style will help.

I plan to visit a couple in a dealer to get a feel for them. So back to my original question what would you be going over with a fine tooth comb when buying a bike?

Thanks

BennyC

 

[Maccapacca]

Identity, check VIN numbers etc and colour.
On tyres add shape, have they been flat spotted
Head bearings, if it's got a centre stand raise the front wheel and turn the steering lock to lock, it should feel smooth with no notches, expensive repair if knackered.

 

[Maccapacca]

Use one of those text check services for £3, bikes are easily written off CAT C / D due to panel damage, whilst no real problem it should be reflected in the price.

 

[BennyC]

Ta, I'll remember to do those too

 

[atpbx]

Clutch rattle.
Top end noise.
Fork seals.
Wheel Bearings.
Cracked fairing mounts.

 

[BennyC]

Got my eye on one particular ad.

09 plate, 08 model. P8F
Black,
Just over 8000 miles
FSH & stamped book.
Warranty just run out.
Last major service 1500 miles ago, oil, filters & plugs changed.
Datatagged.
All keys including master key.

Extra's:
Scorpion Exhaust Rear Section
Goodridge Brake Lines
Dunlop GP Qualifier Tyres
Tail Tidyer
One Off Custom Grab Rail
Plumbed in maintenance charger.

Standard parts included in sale too.

Rear puncture has been plugged and is fine.

May be paddock stands also included in sale and bike could be delivered for a cost TBC. Not sure when it's taxed till or when it's MOT is due.

On for £4500. It seems reasonably priced considering other adverts, perhaps a little high in preparation for a knock down, has been well cared for, kept in the garage on stands, with heaters. All the extra's would have to come off until my second year of riding.

If I could knock a couple of hundred off, towards £4100/4200 and have it delivered it seems like a good deal. Providing the tyres aren't bald, discs trashed and pads down to their backing plates

 

[metbandit1]

link to the advert?

 

[BennyC]

http://pistonheads.co.uk/sales/2823995.htm

We've sent a few e-mails back and forth as I wanted to touch base as I wasn't planning on purchasing until after getting my license however he's said he can deliver on his bike trailer or on a van. £60 if he got full asking or 50p per mile which would be around £125 as I'm about 250 miles away.

I'm waiting for him to get back to me with more details including when the MOT is due and when it's taxed till. I asked if any parts had been replaced during it's life and to his knowledge nothing has been replaced due to wear and tear yet. I'm awaiting a few more detailed bits from the service history.

I asked about squaring on the tyres to which he said there was some very slight squaring though I will need to see photo's of this. These are probably best replaced unless I can even it out on some bends.

In comparison to what else is available and the milage on other examples this does seem a tad on the high side though it's including a fair few extra's.

I haven't made an offer yet but I have a rough idea of offering nearer to the £4k mark providing everything seems to be in order from the photographs I see and after having given it an inspection when delivered, should the sale process get that far.

Thoughts on the example linked welcome

 

[eidolon]

http://pistonheads.co.uk/sales/2823995.htm

Strangely enough I was actually looking at that bike myself. Sounds like a decent one and I can empathise with his reasons for selling.

I think I'll stick with my SV650 for now though, get some more miles under my belt before I move up the BHP rank.

 

[metbandit1]

that bikes pretty sweet, dont worry too much about slight squaring, it will always happen even if you go round loads and loads of corners.
If the tires are only slightly squared run them until you need a new set. no need to buy a bike and then have to replace perfectly good tires to get some experience on.

 

[BennyC]

Strangely enough I was actually looking at that bike myself. Sounds like a decent one and I can empathise with his reasons for selling.

I think I'll stick with my SV650 for now though, get some more miles under my belt before I move up the BHP rank.

Yeah, adverts where the seller has taken time to write it properly and that show it's been well cared for are the ones that usually get my interest.

Just awaiting some more details. I can chain it up with a cover over it until I pass.

 

[eidolon]

Although if this is your first bike, I would probably advise against something this quick (for all the reasons the seller listed). I know you say you drive your 182 like an OAP but bikes aren't the same, the merest sneeze on the throttle at the wrong time and things happen very quickly (but with less room for correction compared to in a car)

I passed my car test some 18 years ago and have owned and driven some pretty fast machinery but since passing my bike test I've got a new found appreciation of the skills required to ride something like a Ninja. (ie it's *nothing* like the GS500 or CB500 that you use on your DAS!!!)

Am I right in thinking you haven't started your DAS yet? If not, then maybe get started on that asap before looking to buy a bike as you might find that a 50-60bhp bike might be enough for the first 6-12 months.

 

[Dogbreath]

To be fair most 600cc sports bike are pretty docile at low RPM, the SV650 has a lot more immediate grunt at say 4000-5000 RPM. If you have a bit of maturity and restraint I don't think they are a bad idea for a first bike.

 

[Danm54]

Can I ask why you're looking at such an expensive first bike?

I went straight on a 600 and all has worked out well for me, except mine was/is quite cheap, paid £900. Ive had 2 stationary drops and while I was a bit gutted to chip my paint work it really wasn't the end of the world, if id just spend 5k on it however, id be really annoyed.

Plus, while we all worry about binning it, even if only for fear of injury, id feel much better pushing my limits on a cheaper bike than one that cost 5k.

Its maybe the reason why 'power rangers' live on straight roads and tootle around corners, they've never wanted to push it too far??

Don't know, just my view.

 

[Confused Stu]

My opinion

I would say don't be put off a 600 as a first bike (the throttle goes both ways, so long as you have a healthy respect for the bike's capabilities you'll be OK).

However, I would definitely echo Danm's comments about the price of it. I spent my first three years on a TZR125, which didn't cost me a huge amount but I was still gutted the three times I dropped/crashed it. I would say accept that you will at least drop the bike a few times in your first year or two, hopefully just at stand still. With that in mind, get a cheapier grand bike, put the rest into a savings account. Learn to ride, learn how to do basic maintenance, and enjoy your bike without spending every minute worrying about "breaking" it. Once you've really got a handle on the whole thing, then get yourself your dream bike.

Oh, and remember to post up pictures of whatever you decide to do. We all love a drool!

 

[BennyC]

Plus, while we all worry about binning it, even if only for fear of injury, id feel much better pushing my limits on a cheaper bike than one that cost 5k.

No doubt about that, though I don't plan to jump straight on and try to find the bikes limits. I'll probably never even get particularly close to the bikes limit and am not buying the bike to rev the **** off it and tempt fate.

Its maybe the reason why 'power rangers' live on straight roads and tootle around corners, they've never wanted to push it too far??

Most likely, you never know if there are fuel/oil spills on the road or nasty bumps/potholes that you can't avoid when you;ve got your knee down

I would say don't be put off a 600 as a first bike (the throttle goes both ways, so long as you have a healthy respect for the bike's capabilities you'll be OK).

It's a respect I definitely have, I know when my speed is too great for the road, or two fast for a courner or just down right dangerous. Having had a few very near misses in my first year of driving I calmed down loads, I appreciate that driving a bike is very different to a car with less room for error. However there is a time and a place to drive/ride like a tool and that is on a track.

However, I would definitely echo Danm's comments about the price of it. I spent my first three years on a TZR125, which didn't cost me a huge amount but I was still gutted the three times I dropped/crashed it. I would say accept that you will at least drop the bike a few times in your first year or two, hopefully just at stand still. With that in mind, get a cheapier grand bike, put the rest into a savings account. Learn to ride, learn how to do basic maintenance, and enjoy your bike without spending every minute worrying about "breaking" it. Once you've really got a handle on the whole thing, then get yourself your dream bike.

I appreciate the advice and know it's inevitable that there will be a few drops when caught off guard. However once I have my heart set on something...you know the rest.

I did look at cheaper bikes but the difference in insurance cost was minimal which didn't offer much incentive, even on a 250 it was barely a few hundred cheaper. If I'm being bent over for insurance I'd like it to be a bike that I want even if I'm not capable of using it's full potential.

I plan to do some advanced training, most likely the IAM shortly after passing my test as I found my Pass Plus for my car very helpful.

Oh, and remember to post up pictures of whatever you decide to do. We all love a drool!

Will do

 

[Souleh]

Dont worry about your first bike being a zx6r.. I did this

Youll not get bored in a rush. Sounds like youve got your list sorted on what to check and with that age/mileage the only defects should be fairly obvious (if any!)

Happy hunting and riding

 

[BennyC]

Dont worry about your first bike being a zx6r.. I did this

Youll not get bored in a rush. Sounds like youve got your list sorted on what to check and with that age/mileage the only defects should be fairly obvious (if any!)

Happy hunting and riding

Thanks,

Can I ask which year ZX6R you have?
Did you have much riding experience before gaining your license?

I'm curious as what to expect. Obviously it'll go like the clappers with a twist of the wrist. Other than a difference in weight, riding position and handling as long as it's driven with some self restraint I can't see it being too much more difficult to drive or more dangerous than any other bike? What are your thoughts? and what were your initial findings/reactions?

 

[Rudedog]

I done exactly as youre doing back in 2006 I bought a CBR 600rr5 for £5000 absolute mint bike just didnt want anything smaller.

I hadnt even passed my test got my mate to ride it back, the power diffrence between a CB500 you learn on and one of these things is massive, after passing my test I was shcoked at the step up in power started to have doubts about riding it.

I managed a year before binning it into the back of a woman at a roundabout, you always say to yourself your going to take it easy but you just cant on these things.

The only thing I would say is why pay so much you can pick up a mint 600 for £3000 and Im telling you now you will drop it/bin it and its devastaing especially when you pay a price like that

 

[Souleh]

Thanks,

Can I ask which year ZX6R you have?
Did you have much riding experience before gaining your license?

I'm curious as what to expect. Obviously it'll go like the clappers with a twist of the wrist. Other than a difference in weight, riding position and handling as long as it's driven with some self restraint I can't see it being too much more difficult to drive or more dangerous than any other bike? What are your thoughts? and what were your initial findings/reactions?

03 B1H with a lot of changes (Click for link)

I had a 125 4T Sachs XTC before for just under a year. It was a slow, light and unreliable..

I got the 636 and first thing you notice is the weight which at first is strange but the first corner you hit and youll realise its perfectly weighted. The planted feeling gives a lot more confidence and grip. Riding poisition was the same but handling couldnt be further apart.
I have since changed my entire rear suspension but the OEM Setup isnt bad - just a little hard for public roads (Skippy rear wheel over bumpy corners)

Personally I love it. Id recommend it to anyone. The 636 engine gives plenty of mid range compared to other 600's.

Ive been tinkering but dont take that as a sign of a bad bike.. thats just me fiddling.

This bike isnt expensive as its 03. In 03 the B1H was the most up to date bike there was of the supersport 6's and its held its head high over the years..

Hope this helps