What's The Best Way To Rejoin These Wires?

panthro

panthro

panthro

Soldato
Joined
19 Nov 2004
Posts
12,627
Location
Wokingham
This is the seat loom on my car. The lumbar support isn't work and I've found out why. Seems to have snapped there the loom is twisted at a 90deg angle. I've got a gas soldering kit but am unsure of the best way to rejoin. Should I just strip the ends and solder or add some extra wire in?

 
terminalblocks.jpg


Cut them off singular.

First of all bare the wires about 5mm to 10mm back and solder them so they're nice and strong.
 
Some of them dont look like there is much room for joining (IE quite short)

If you are soldering together though, make sure you strip the cover round the edge slightly, and flare the inner wires out, so its kind of bushy, do the same on the other wire, then with them bushed out join them so they sort of mush in together, then twist then solder.


Its hard to explain

If not then terminal blocks, as posted above
 
Good idea. Its either that way or a new loom. Just worried I won't be able fit that all back under the seat.
DJM4 I might give that a go before terminal blocks.
 
Put heatshrink on, strip them back, twist together, solder. Move heatshrink over, heat.

Don't use those connectors, do it properly.
 
You don't need to twist together but its easier. NASA did a test and they found if you butt two pre-tinned wires side by side, then solder together, the failure point is not the joint.

Watch below:

https://youtu.be/VeXVZNd3OB8?t=11m57s

Also, follow this:


GeX said:
Put heatshrink on, strip them backsolder. Move heatshrink over, heat.

Don't use those connectors, do it properly.
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
GeX said:
Put heatshrink on, strip them back, twist together, solder. Move heatshrink over, heat.

Don't use those connectors, do it properly.
Click to expand...

I've just done exactly this on a cable which switches on/off reverb/delay on a mixing desk but I was able to cut all 3 wires so they all stay the same length.
The problem with the OP is that if he strips each broken wire back 10mm and tins them, there is going to be a pull of 10mm to get the 2 wires together.
This might not be a problem but it might end up he will have to cut all the wires so they all remain the same length.
 
Dimple said:
I've just done exactly this on a cable which switches on/off reverb/delay on a mixing desk but I was able to cut all 3 wires so they all stay the same length.
The problem with the OP is that if he strips each broken wire back 10mm and tins them, there is going to be a pull of 10mm to get the 2 wires together.
This might not be a problem but it might end up he will have to cut all the wires so they all remain the same length.
Click to expand...

Could always use a short piece of wire between the two to make up the extra length needed.
 
GeX said:
Put heatshrink on, strip them back, twist together, solder. Move heatshrink over, heat.

Don't use those connectors, do it properly.
Click to expand...

This, no two ways about it. Connectors blocks are great for static solutions but as this is a car, it'll move around and those connectors WILL let go at some point. Do it properly, it won't take long and you'll have peace of mind.

I wouldn't let a connector block anywhere near a car personally.
 
Google posilock

If you're not technical they're a fantastic way of simply and securely joining or tapping wire.

Used a lot by bikers so very vibration resistant.
 
Solder....not in automotive work. I would be crimping suitable ends on. Rubber insulted bullet types would work well in that situation.
 
Last edited:
Crimp connectors, a pair of strong hands, and some heatshrink over the top. :p

I fix everything with crimps. If you make sure you squeeze the crimpers hard enough, you won't pull them apart.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom