That’s a good idea for preventing corrosion, but torque figures are usually for dry/clean thread conditions.
only put a tiny amount on and wipe most of it off, I used to have seized bolts and I just hated it
That’s a good idea for preventing corrosion, but torque figures are usually for dry/clean thread conditions.
Red locktite only.Ok so let's up this a level, who uses grease on wheel nuts/bolts?
Don’t, this changes the torque for the thread friction.Also put a tiny dab of anti seize copper grease on the bolt threads
More or less torque?Don’t, this changes the torque for the thread friction.
You'll end up over torqueing it if you torque to a dry thread value.More or less torque?
Should never be done on ANY fastening that has a Torque value given to it.Ok so let's up this a level, who uses grease on wheel nuts/bolts?
I have never had a wheel come loose or fall off in 25 years, and neither has my brother in 30 years, nor my dad in 65 years
See, the smart man would have took one nut of the other 3 wheels and then you be running with 4 nut. But i guess 1 nut on the wheel and 1 nut behind the steering wheel working well for ya.I have, wasn't fun. Had to drive home with one nut in.
Just had a look on Autodata for you..
Steel 88Nm
Alloy 114Nm
See, the smart man would have took one nut of the other 3 wheels and then you be running with 4 nut. But i guess 1 nut on the wheel and 1 nut behind the steering wheel working well for ya.![]()
Never do this FFS...Also put a tiny dab of anti seize copper grease on the bolt threads
Never do this FFS...
I thought wheel nuts were meant to be checked after a few (50?) Miles and re-torqued but bolts don't need it.Remember if your fitting brand new alloys to recheck the torque of the nuts/bolts soon after having driven on the wheels. The alloy can compress on first fitting and results in loose nuts.
Yeah, I’ve seen some silly posts on here, but that surpasses all.