Checked the reservoir today - it is 2mm over the max marking - don't have enough experience to know if that makes any odds or not though wouldn't have thought so - the cap level is 1cm above that.
Wheels stiff
- Thread starter Vanquish-Storm
- Start date
Checked the reservoir today - it is 2mm over the max marking - don't have enough experience to know if that makes any odds or not though wouldn't have thought so - the cap level is 1cm above that.
Soldato
Will make absolutely zero difference
Think I'm gonna have to get under it and check the drums
don't really want to mess about in the current situation going back and forth from the dealer if I can avoid it.Haven't tried yet leaving it just in park rather than use the handbrake but definitely feels like the rear brakes are binding
Also possible transmission wind-up related - had a bit of a nasty transition between surfaces, soft to hard, while turning in 4WD it didn't like :s but symptoms don't really fit that. (I don't generally use 4WD).
Well my problem I'm 99% sure is both rear drum brakes binding - one I think worse than the other they are a bit corroded and I guess from the timing the brake testing during MOT was the final straw. Bit of a pain as I was trying to avoid making too many trips to places other than work, etc. with the current situation.
Think it is more than just the hand brake as when I braked a fair bit on a down an then up hill dip in the road got a bit of resistance after I got off the brakes and a nice squeal as I got back on the power again going up the other side.
they are a bit corroded and I guess from the timing the brake testing during MOT was the final straw. Bit of a pain as I was trying to avoid making too many trips to places other than work, etc. with the current situation.Think it is more than just the hand brake as when I braked a fair bit on a down an then up hill dip in the road got a bit of resistance after I got off the brakes and a nice squeal as I got back on the power again going up the other side.
Soldato
Well my problem I'm 99% sure is both rear drum brakes binding - one I think worse than the other
Think it is more than just the hand brake as when I braked a fair bit on a down an then up hill dip in the road got a bit of resistance after I got off the brakes and a nice squeal as I got back on the power again going up the other side.
Best get them checked out. Be something like seized wheel cylinders, seized lever on the brake shoes that connects to the handbrake lever or the handbrake cables sticking.
Tried leaving it for a bit without using the handbrake, parked on snow, reversed fine absolutely no resistance or traction issues with just the idle revs. Put it in drive and no movement, had to give it a fair bit of revs to get moving and at first was snaking with a bit of wheel spin before it was wheeling freely - after braking to a stop on a hard surface and going forward again initially resistance then a slight clunk from the back after which it was moving fine.
May also be partly or fully to blame for some pull on the steering I've been feeling.
Definitely need to get it sorted just a pain in the current situation as I can't just turn up at the dealer nearby and wait while they look at it and too far to drop it off and walk home.
I’m going to go with this, using the car every day the last few days and it’s not happening. I’ll monitor it.
Thanks
Some of my cars have done it in the past if I've washed them and left them overnight when cold and wet. The brakes stick on and then suddenly release when pulling away for the first time.
Or if you have an automatic handbrake (the type you switch on with a button rather than an actual lever) then it might just be the brake releasing. My Evoque does that. It sometimes incorrectly thinks there is a blockage near me and holds the brake for a second while I pull away, then releases it.
In my case both rear drum brakes the hub seal is compromised allowing leakage which seems to be the cause. Though that lead to finding both prop u joint has some play (doesn't really need replacing but might as well get it done) and steering column u joint has left/right play (already suspected) which is gonna be a little costly.
Soldato
Mine does this, and has been getting worse. Sometimes if I leave it a couple of days, it takes a good few times before it finally unsticks.
I leave the handbrake off when parking when I can. I've been meaning to open it and have a look. Would it normally be just a case of cleaning it out with brake cleaner, or will it need new pads?
I leave the handbrake off when parking when I can. I've been meaning to open it and have a look. Would it normally be just a case of cleaning it out with brake cleaner, or will it need new pads?
Not really related to this thread other than my post above... but I had my truck looked at by 4 different garages with the symptoms of "sloppy steering", all very happy to charge me loads for alignment, etc. and "in-depth" steering and suspension component "diagnostics" - none of them discovered the 3/4 inch left/right play in the intermediate shaft due to the universal joint being on its way out! - even took the main dealer two attempts but they did at least find it in the end. One of them is a well regarded garage as well!
I so need to get geared up to be able to work on my vehicles myself
I so need to get geared up to be able to work on my vehicles myself
Well my problem I'm 99% sure is both rear drum brakes binding - one I think worse than the other
Think it is more than just the hand brake as when I braked a fair bit on a down an then up hill dip in the road got a bit of resistance after I got off the brakes and a nice squeal as I got back on the power again going up the other side.
Had this donkeys years ago with my wife's car (girlfriend at the time), was driving a beaten up old 206. The shoe linings had started to detach they were that old, until one day they completely seized.
Soldato
Not really related to this thread other than my post above... but I had my truck looked at by 4 different garages with the symptoms of "sloppy steering", all very happy to charge me loads for alignment, etc. and "in-depth" steering and suspension component "diagnostics" - none of them discovered the 3/4 inch left/right play in the intermediate shaft due to the universal joint being on its way out! - even took the main dealer two attempts but they did at least find it in the end. One of them is a well regarded garage as well!
I so need to get geared up to be able to work on my vehicles myself
I’d find out who my local 4WD specialists are and giving them a shout if you think the transfer case is playing up. The combination of auto box and electrically switched transfer case isn’t something you want to try “learn as you go” on.
The rear brakes do sound like either the slave cylinders are FUBAR or the pivots/links on the shoes are seized. Replacing those shouldn’t be a big job if you’ve got a regular set of petrolhead tools, good jack stands and a 3 tonne jack.
Problem is I'm out in the middle of nowhere and the nearby garages from reputation and/or experience don't seem very good. Ended up getting it done at the main dealer even though it was £££ as they are nearby and better than most.
Initially quoted me near 2K but reduced it to 1.4K - included other work as well (prop and steering ujs, had some consumables done at the same time, etc.). Rear drums rebuilt with new seals inc. diff and breathers seems to have sorted it.
Sadly it is balancing the time, money, effort equation so not saving much by shopping around.