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Who can i send a dead GPU to for a possible repair?

Goose

Goose

Goose

Soldato
Joined
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Kent
I accidentally killed my 1070 in a water spillage incident and i've since taken it apart to clean it with IPA and left it over a week to make sure no moisture remains but it's still lifeless.

I can't imagine OCUK or Palit will touch it since it was accidental damage so I was wondering if there is anywhere else i can send it to confirm that it's definitely 100% beyond saving?

Thanks
 
I don't know if this will help but here goes anyway. :o

I had a similar situation with a USB key which one day went for a ride in the washing machine, after giving it a good shake out, I left it by a radiator for a week.

The PC didn't recognise it was there after insertion. So, thinking it was stuffed anyway, I squirted I good dose of WD40 inside it.

I left it to drain for a while then blew it out with a tin of compressed air, after which the damned thing worked, even the information written to it was still there. :eek:
 
My first advice would be don't spray it with WD40 whatever you do lol. Do you know the exact area that got wet and are there any signs of damage in this area? Something obviously got fried / shorted but unless it's burnt / damaged and a standard off the shelf component I don't like your chances.
 
Ace said:
My first advice would be don't spray it with WD40 whatever you do lol. Do you know the exact area that got wet and are there any signs of damage in this area? Something obviously got fried / shorted but unless it's burnt / damaged and a standard off the shelf component I don't like your chances.
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Actually the WD40 may lift any residue, especially if the spilled water is tap water and he's in a hard water area. If it's already lifeless then why not.
 
WD40 is for removing rust and spraying on squeaky hinges, if you want to cover your card in conductive oil sure go for it. Cleaning it with IPA was the right move but unfortunately that won't fix damaged component(s).
 
I could be wrong but I don't think WD40 is conductive, and one of its uses is moisture displacement so may not be a crazy idea.

When I had a watercooling leak I put my GPU in a tub of rice (absorbs moisture) and stuck it in the airing cupboard for a couple of days, it worked fine afterwards, however, the card didn't completely die from the leak like yours, I only thought to have a look at the PC innards because I was getting GPU driver crashes all the time, that's when I saw a puddle sitting atop the GPU.
Have a look at the card for any signs of damage, hopefully there's a blown cap that can be replaced.
 
Out of interest when you say water incident, was it while switched on?

Also you mention you took it apart, are you 100% sure that you've put it back together correctly?

Initially you've done the best thing by cleaning it with IPA, provided it's a high concentration, as low concentration uses too much water.
 
It wasn't on when the water was spilled but i hadn't realised what i'd actually done at the time, i only knew something was wrong when i tried to power on the computer and nothing happened.

After taking the card apart it was the reverse side (under the back plate) that showed signs of what i assume was mineral deposits (patches of white stuff) which i cleaned with IPA. I can't see any obvious signs of anything being physically burnt.
 
Unfortunately what might have happened is the damage might have been done when you powered it on unknowingly, but the fact you mention you can't see anything untoward like burn marks, damage etc is weird.

While morally questionable, perhaps ensure the card is completely clean (which it should be) and then just create an RMA with the manufacturer. They'll examine it and let you know what the issue is. You might even end up with a result and they replace.

Or if you're not comfortable with doing the above, then you've got nothing to lose by contacting the manufacturer being honest and seeing if they can offer any assistance at a cost. I'd feel more comfortable dealing with them than a random "repair" guy.

I can't offer any advice on recommendations for repairs though unfortunately. Perhaps google might throw up some results.
 
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Ace said:
WD40 is for removing rust and spraying on squeaky hinges, if you want to cover your card in conductive oil sure go for it. Cleaning it with IPA was the right move but unfortunately that won't fix damaged component(s).
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WD40 isn't conductive so I don't see what the issue would be..
 
Ace said:
WD40 is for removing rust and spraying on squeaky hinges, if you want to cover your card in conductive oil sure go for it. Cleaning it with IPA was the right move but unfortunately that won't fix damaged component(s).
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WD40 isn't for removing rust or for use on squeaky hinges. It's name is water displacement version 40 as the previous 39 versions failed.

You use lubricant on squeaky hinges. You use an abrasive material to remove rust like a scourer or sandpaper then seal the effected area to prevent further damage. Painting it for instance.

However I would stick the GPU in a large bag of rice and let that draw the Moisture out
 
Yeah clean it then RMA it with a big dumb I dunno what happened face.

You have nothing to lose but a month and postage prices.
 
I'll try and see if Palit will take it but I voided the warranty by removing the cooler when i cleaned the PCB.
 
Ace said:
https://www.wd40.com/img/wd-40-smart-straw-voc-12oz_straw_up_right.png

Using rice is also a waste of time.[/QUOTE]

it loosens rusted parts. it doesn't remove rust. great for rusted bolts, etc.

again lubricant / grease for squeaky stuff. wd-40 will only work short term as a temporary measure.

rice has saved many a gadget in the past. as has sticking silicon / pcb boards in an oven at a low temp like 40 C.
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Ace said:
https://www.wd40.com/img/wd-40-smart-straw-voc-12oz_straw_up_right.png

Using rice is also a waste of time.[/QUOTE]

I don't often agreen with PS. However he is right. They put it on a tin to sell more and people use it to do a job of a lubricant. If they used it to first clean out moisture of a joint and then put a decent lubricant in then they wouldn't have to do for years.

However using it as a lubricant isn't it's primary job but they sell it because for a few months it works like one on say a door hinge. Because you repeat the same step every other month doesn't mean it is correct for the job.

In terms of rust, again it isn't for removing but for breaking the bond between the metal and the rust. If you leave it to soak and then you clean with wire brush then that is how you remove rust.

It does drive out moisture and other sticky substances so they are ready to be kept dry or re-lubed accordingly.

It is why you shouldn't soak a bike chain for instance, it pulls all the oil out and you wont get oil back in after. However brushing the surface of a rusty chain with a toothbrush that is soaked in WD40 is a good idea and then wire wool clean. A quick blast across the external surface and then wipe with rag and re-lube.

So yeah you could try and spray some WD40 on a local spot of the PCB and wipe clean with the high concentrate IPA again as it should lift stuff. Then leave to dry in a high absorbent material.
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Goose said:
It wasn't on when the water was spilled but i hadn't realised what i'd actually done at the time, i only knew something was wrong when i tried to power on the computer and nothing happened.

After taking the card apart it was the reverse side (under the back plate) that showed signs of what i assume was mineral deposits (patches of white stuff) which i cleaned with IPA. I can't see any obvious signs of anything being physically burnt.
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The patches of white might just have been flux residue which is pretty normal on cards
 
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