Who owns a Mondeo ST220 / ST TDCI?

Not a great deal, it's primarily to increase the quality of, and get a cleaner / tighter sound by dampening the vibrations from the speakers which resonate within the very "active"/noisy/vibration-prone thin metal cabinet that is the door, and to "deaden" the door's acoustic properties. The doors might close with more of a "thud", too.
 
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Let me know how you get on and maybe I'll build up enough "arsed" to do the same :)

Got an SPL meter? Measure the sound level at 70mph on the same bit of road before and after ;)
 
The only real exterior metallic rattle I've had has been the brake pads. I also recently sorted out the rattle from the boot which sounded more plasticy which was the boot latch - I loosened the bolts holding the striker plate and moved it down a bit to make it a bit of a tighter fit which cured it. I guess you could look at that also.

Otherwise just get underneath the rear and check that the heatshields (the mounting areas on these like to corrode and they come loose) and give all of the ARB drop links and suspension components a good tug to make sure they're not knocking/clonking.

Is it loud? Can you get a recording? :p
 
I posted this in the 'what have you done to your car today?' thread but I thought you lot might find it interesting...

I used this guide as a reference to achieve this:



No idea why Ford didn't have the Mondeo do this from the factory like their other cars do, but hey ho. Works nicely and adds an extra little bit of cool factor ;)
 
Yes I was thinking of adding a hidden switch to disable it in the depths of winter, but then if other car manufacturers can do it why can't Ford? :p

Spongy pads and clips - pass... Pics?
 
Vita said:
I'm contemplating to get a Bluefin for my car. I then again, am thinking twice about it.

I was thinking along the lines of possibly a decat/bluefin. What should I do?
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I wouldn't. You bought the diesel presumably because of your mileage and the need for an economical car. Things will just break even sooner than they will anyway if you push it further than it's designed to go.
 
I think the most helpful thing for me if I ever need to fully remove my front bumper will be a cutting wheel.

The bigger bolts going into the subframe are torx heads and they'll come out fine, it's the little philips head screws into the metal retainers in the plastic for the undertray, corner of the arches and whatnot that you'll be buggered with.
 
Vita said:
Out of interest, the puddle lights/lights in the footwell are all 501 types? I'm wanting to fit leds to illuminate everything in a 10 mile radius.
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Yup. Same as the glovebox light. Interior courtesy lights are wedge type, front map lights are 501 type, rear map lights are little bayonet type, mirror puddle lights are 501 type, number plate lights are wedge type.

;)

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;)


Old pics hence lack of private plate and other random bits. Also excuse the slightly off white balance courtesy of the camera, the lights all look the same temperature in real life.
 
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Got to work this morning to find one of my jacking point covers dangling from its thread. I thought I heard something knocking on the way in.

Bloody things - time to re-introduce the heat gun and bend them back into shape. I'd buy some fresh new ones if they weren't about £20 EACH
 
Oh if it didn't have any then I'd have to buy some.. Christ :p But they just seem to warp over time and not fit as tightly it seems! None have fallen off completely yet..
 
Imy said:
Mine are in pretty bad shape and one is badly warped also. How do they get warped in the first place?
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I wish I knew. I heat mine up and bend them occasionally which makes them a tighter fit.


Imy said:
It's either catching on the angled ceiling of the hole.
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I envisaged this to be one of the problems of fitting a double-DIN unit. If you look at the OE Sony unit, you can see the front is at an angle so it's flat where the metal chassis angles downwards.

Imy said:
or the thick cables are getting trapped behind.
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I had this trouble, I got a hacksaw and cut out a bit of the plastic dashboard "skeleton" at the back and to the left.


Can you not see where it gets stuck as you slowly push it in? How much farther does it need to go?


Makhaira said:
Got a strange squeaking at very low speed from my front left, any ideas what it might be? Disc doesn't seem excessively hot, so don't think it's something binding in the pad. Possibly just a normal thing that I'm only noticing because I actually drive with the windows open at the moment?
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When does / doesn't it do it other than when going slowly?
 
It's much easier to get your hand in from the passenger side if you take the glovebox out - there's quite a lot of rear access if you do this. Gently push cables down into the voids of the dashboard as you're pushing the unit back, and then get in from behind and gently 'massage' the cables out of the way. You're nearly there so I'd be pretty confident it's just a mass of wires. The ISO and QuadLock connectors (for steering controls and such) are chunky old things, too.
 
I think people have managed to fit double-DIN units into the facelift dash so it should go! I think it'll end up looking just as bad if you angle it down and try to bodge it. There should still be some space for all the cables and connectors and control boxes to tuck down - there's quite a big "void" down the side of the centre console at each side, where it enters the footwell, if that make sense.

Gentle trial and error is the key. :)

Each time I have mine out for one reason or another, it takes me half an hour of fiddling for it all go to back neatly!
 
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