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- 10 Jun 2010
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- 5,158
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- Scotland
Wait... Is that the bloody engine temp?
Just ask him about it and if he has a valid reason then I'd seriously consider that bike. Looks awesome.
Nah I doubt that's the same issue.
My guess is it actually reads 10.8 C but I can't tell from the picture.
If the temperature is ACTUALLY 108 C then he has a massive problem.
My bike when ragged on a hot day doesn't usually go over 80 C.
I think the fan is set to turn on after 100 C to cool the rad down.
If the bike is idling at 108 C, I'd dread to think what happens when it's rode a few hundred miles on a sunny day....
EDIT:
The reason I suggested 10.8 C is because that'd be a normal temperature if the bike hadn't even been started and the ignition had just been turned on for the photo.
Also, I don't think they check engine oil/temperatures for an MOT.
I doubt there's anything wrong with it if I'm honest.
If it's truly reading 108 C then he probably took the picture after the bike was running on tick over for a considerable amount of time for some reason.
Bikes can get very hot idling if they're doing so for a long time. I just dunno why you'd leave a bike idling for long enough to reach 108 C....
Like I said, ask the guy and he'll probably give you a good answer. When you view the bike, ask to see it running and make a note of whether or not the temperature reads normal.
That is true lol... however I was more along the lines of, I noticed when I bought my bike that the front wheel was a lot more uneven along the middle of the tyre as stupid as that sounds... when I checked, the suspension settings were set incorrectly on the top, alter them, and done 3k on the new tyres and all is well... I reckon the previous rider has been tinkering and not realised they need to be set the same or forgot or something then ridden the bike... must've been all over the shop...
Yeah get some piccies up man... ASAP... bet your well excited... tell ya what as well, what year is it again? As £1700 is a hell of a good price for one of them models... also ensure that the idling is around 1300rpm, these CBRs have a tendancy I think to be set too low... I know Haynes reccomends mine to be 1300-1400rpm on warm idle...
Well done mate - look great![]()
I had a CBR600F, fantastic first bike, plenty of power if you need it and handling is fairly good.
They are mostly bullet proof, except the one I got... which developed a very loud ticking so I sold it and got a CBR600RR, this bike probably isn't best for a newbie!
Either the CBR600F or Thundercat will be good, they are pretty much identical anyway, you'll be happy with either.
Could that exhaust be any bigger?.
Its been so long since ive had a standard exhaust on a bike ive forgotten how bloody weighty & over engineered they are, any way, nice bike, lose the can!.![]()
The RST 1 pce that hein gericke are doing at the moment, I have it and done a couple of track days in it. Great suit for the price.
Can't comment on the suits but I have RST boots, bought in August 2010...zip broke in July 2011...they replaced them on a like for like basis the same month and now just over a year layer, the outer sole is splitting....
24k is nothing on modern bikes
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Haven't seen all the way through the thread but make sure the valve clearances are done/have been done. Chances are they will be ok (mine were on Thunderace) but mates ZX6r were all over the place. We decided to do them after the first engine killed itself thrumming along at 70ish on motorway.
Of course, he went and smashed the thing up after we'd done them, but at least the engine still worked, even if everything else was bent.
Ironically noisy'ish valves are usually happy valves. When they go quiet its dangerous. If its 20k+ then prob wise to have it checked.
that's miles that bike you posted has it and a few were saying 24k scares them for a bike