Yelllow tinge on my new Samsung UR59C2

JamesJoanne

JamesJoanne

JamesJoanne

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I just bought the Samsung 32" UR59C2 and have put it next to BenQ XL2730Z 27" and I can't help but notice that they have quite different white point as demonstrated in this picture https://imgur.com/a/CqOwa41

These aren't my monitors but I have more or less the same issue.

Is this yellow tint normal or my BenQ is too blueish ? I have tried different color settings etc. but I can't get rid of this tint. There appears to be a number of reports online about this. Some say its just the panels technology. Others argue otherwise.

Any ideas?
 
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HI,

Every monitor pretty much will look different when placed next to another monitor, even those from the same brand and SKU. This will also feel even worse when its placed next to a monitor you have been using for a long time as you expect that your original monitor is correct, so any difference is viewed as being wrong.

It is more likely that both "colour wise" are wrong but in different ways which is making the difference look even greater.

The only true way to setup a monitor is to get a tool to do so, something like a colormunki display and display cal3 software will get you the best picture that the monitor can do.

I have a BenQ XL2730z used the TFT Central settings for years and was happy with it, got a colorimeter (mentioned above) and my monitor was no where near its optimal settings and now following calibration it matches the findings that TFT got for the monitor, but with different settings to achieve the same thing.


This does not rule out that their maybe a fault with the display, but without the tool it will be hard to tell if its a setting or a fault.
 
I have checked everything and there is no setting that causes this. I have put the same settings TomsHardware suggests in their review. I have tried different cables with no difference. This is a VA panel as supposed to the TN of the BenQ maybe this would explain something?.
I don't know what to do. I bought it from Amazon and am thinking of sending it back. On the other hand if I knew that this is normal and every monitor pretty much will look different when placed next to another monitor, then I shouldn't really return it should I? I am very uncertain here and don't
want to buy a colourmeter just for this and then have it in box gathering dust for a fear years till my next monitor. Would a colorimeter show me if the monitor is faulty or not?

I am reading this monitor is very accurate. I wonder if this is why the difference.
 
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If the entire screen is the same tint then it’s possibly just a settings issue which you should be able to adjust with the rgb values.

If it’s say just a portion/s of the screen then it’s faulty and needs to be returned.

I’ve had the same issues with some IPS panels in the past where half the screen would have a yellow tint and the rest as it should be. No amount of settings or adjustments fixed it. I just returned and had the monitor replaced. Luckily the next one didn’t have the same issue.
 
It is the entire screen that is yellowish. The white in this screen doesn't look as "white" as on my BenQ. I have read that for those that aren't used to accurate colors, white looks yellow for a while, or orange. Maybe BenQ isn't accurate and the comparison is deceptive.
 
You should be able to up adjust the rgb settings in the menu to adjust the whitepoint. I.e, upping the blue a bit.

Usually the calibrated white point is slightly on the warmer side from experience.
 
Hi James,

All the tool will do is help you reach the most colour accurate picture the display can show, it will not pick up a fault as such. There are often many options in the monitors control panel that could be causing the issue you have.....RGB balance would be the first port of call, i.e blue is lower than it should be or red and green are higher would result in a yellow look.

Many monitors also have different picture mode presets i.e the Benq has FPS 1 & 2, gamer, film etc....but the best one to use is standard on that monitor. Each of these will alter the RGB colour temp and in turn the white point of the monitor. You want to use a preset that allows you to alter RGB, gamma if available and brightness and contrast. If the preset you are using is greying out these options then it will always be hard to get the best picture you can.

In short its not a simple thing to get right, if this is the monitor you have https://www.tomshardware.com/uk/reviews/samsung-ur59c-4k-curved-32-inch-monitor,6265.html, then the last against note is "Needs calibration" using their settings will be unlikely to give you good results. you will need a tool to resolve the issues as panel to panel variation can be big. example mine and TFT central settings for the same monitor are different but once both are calibrated they report the same numbers.
 
Thanks for the time you took to reply.

@EL_JOCK Yes that's the one.

I would imagine if the screen is indeed yellowish and is not just my perception and lack of accurate colors knowledge then the colourmeter should help. If the white point is terrible to the point of looking yellowish surely the device will pick it up?
I ordered one which is to be delivered today so looking forward to what I can flearn. This guy seems to be have the same problem: https://forums.tomshardware.com/threads/monitor-looks-yellowish.2715660
 
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Hi,

Given the information we have a colourmeter seems the best course of action to get the best outcome.....i have linked a video below that helped me understand all the options and how to use the DisplayCal3 software.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wUtcXD2zgko&t=1658s its not the best video ever but you can see all the options and what to think about.

Under the calibration tab you want to set the white point to 6500k and the white level to 120 cd/m gamma 2.2

A few points to help out

1) To see all the advanced options in DisplayCal once loaded go to "options" "show advance options"
2) You need to make sure that no ICM profiles are loaded before calibrating the monitor
3) Reset the monitor to factory and pick the profile option that allows you to alter the most settings (RGB, Gamma, brightness etc)
4) Make sure the monitor has been on for about an hour before running any tests.
5) On the un-calibrated screen click "tools" then "reports" then "report on un-calibrated display device option" it will run some tests then a report will appear look at the gamma section of the report you want this as near to 2.2 as you can, if its way out adjust just that setting on the monitor re-run the report until its as near to 2.2 as you can get it, the calibration will attempt to fix but better to start off as near to it as you can.
6) Once you have done all that then start the process to calibrate the monitor depending on what device you have this could take 20-25 minutes

Hope that helps
 
@ EL_JOCK Thanks for that. I will be doing a test later on today.

I should point out that the black level is noticeably superior to the BenQ's TN panel. I am curious if the colourmeter will show the white point as excellent (6500k) as per TomsHardware review. If it does then we can safely say there is nothing wrong with my monitor right? Should the "white" in a monitor really look like white (as a white A4 sheet) or its normal to always look a bit yellow?

I am trying to understand what is normal whiteness for a monitor.
 
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white should look white...however very few websites etc use white as the background etc as its to much to look at, so they often use an off white, so people think it should be white and adjust to make what should be an off-white appear white in turn knocking out all colours.

Follow the instructions, calibrate the monitor and at the end it should be as accurate as your panel can achieve.....it will look odd if not wrong to you for the first few days but very few people have used a screen that is correct, so you might feel it does not look as good, it will however be more accurate.

once you have done all the calibration, then at the end you can click on "tools" "report" "measurement report" again it will run a set of tests and then it will give you a list of details to include white point, gamma and colour accuracy.
 
can you take a look of this photo that I've taken: https://we.tl/t-jTnklsdlTZ . As you can see my BenQ on the right has closer to what we would call "white" but then again am not sure at this point how white should look like.

It seems to me the Samsung has a built in low blue light filter that you aren't able to disable. With my BenQ I get a similar yellow tint once I enable the blue light filter

I have tried calibrating both with the SpyderX Pro, just to improve things and I have run into another problem. The BenQ gets severely messed up after calibrating it. You can take a look here from this video that I took: https://we.tl/t-cfup1N5efO . First part is the calibrated icc profile.

I am frustrated with all this. I am considering returning everything back and go back to my BenQ.
 
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HI James,

Had a quick look at the first picture, given that its a photo its hard to give a defining answer, but the image on the right looks to bright to me and i'm not sure that panel in windows is really white (i have a dark theme), so hard to say if either one is correct from a photo.

OK so you got a spyder x, did you use display cal 3 or the software that came with it?? I would use display cal 3 as the software that came with my colormuki is not that good compared to display cal which gives you far more control https://displaycal.net/

If you used display cal, what did the results come back as? i.e. white point, color accuracy and coverage and gamma.

It must be driving you up the wall, but it should be worth it in the end.

Nice one
 
Can you take a look here
https://we.tl/t-oUCfBSRl2U
Brightness doesn't make any difference. What you see gives the correct impression. The Samsung has a permanent yellow tint no matter what I do with profiles, changing cables etc. The white of the Benq is what you would call "acceptable" white while the Samsung isn't.

I used SpyderX in house program but calibration isn't the issue here. Would display cal pick up the yellowish tint? I will try install it and do some tests.
 
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Hi,

So looking at the picture the one on the left does appear to have a yellow tone i.e. the white point might be to hot lower than 6500k, however the benq still looks to bright white which could be the result of a to cold white point higher than 6500k. To add into the mix an effect called "perceptual ambiguity" could be in play i.e. putting something bright next to something less bright impacts how you see the colour and light shift. The famous black and blue or did you see a white and gold dress from a few years back is a great example of this.

I would defo use the display cal 3 software, its really good....much better than the in-house software, as part of the calibration it will get you to alter the RGB of the monitor plus the brightness to hit a sweet spot, before it sets up the alteration it needs to make.


Following the tips and video i shared above (linked below) and it should help getting it all correct,

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wUtcXD2zgko&t=1658s

1) To see all the advanced options in DisplayCal once loaded go to "options" "show advance options"
2) You need to make sure that no ICM profiles are loaded before calibrating the monitor
3) Reset the monitor to factory and pick the profile option that allows you to alter the most settings (RGB, Gamma, brightness etc)
4) Make sure the monitor has been on for about an hour before running any tests.
5) On the un-calibrated screen click "tools" then "reports" then "report on un-calibrated display device option" it will run some tests then a report will appear look at the gamma section of the report you want this as near to 2.2 as you can, if its way out adjust just the gamma setting on the monitor re-run the report until its as near to 2.2 as you can get it, the calibration will attempt to fix but better to start off as near to it as you can.
6) Once you have done all that then start the process to calibrate the monitor depending on what device you have this could take 20-25 minutes

At the end it will show how much of each colour space your monitor covers the higher the better in some ways, also run the following test at the end with a calibrated screen click on "tools" "report" "measurement report" again it will run a set of tests and then it will give you a list of details to include white point, gamma and colour accuracy per colour.

Hope that helps
 
Thanks for the time you take to help me out.

It seems to me the BenQ has been too cool as I got a reading of 8300k and since I been on it for years I have gotten used to it too much. Bringing it down to 6500k makes this monitor "yellowish" too. It seems to me am not used to accurate colors and
my perception of how white should look like is very distorted.

Should I keep the SpyderX, is it a competent device in your view or should I take one of the others?

One issue I experience currently is that it is confusing which color profile is running. For some reason the calibrated profile when enabled for my BenQ does this to me: https://we.tl/t-w86pTSuWSF . The first part of the video is the calibrated profile.
The colors get very distorted as you can see when I use the .icm SpyderX has created. How can it be so bad? The second part is when I let my nvidia control the colors directly without the windows icm aiding.

Also for the Samsung according to DisplayCal I get around 6500k and all rgb colors are in the middle. For that to be achieved I have Red on 60, Green on 50 and Blue on 49.

I am on it, I gain a bit more understanding slowly :)
 
Hi James,

I'm not sure on the SpyderX i just picked the Colormuki as it had been recommended to me, so check reviews etc i guess. However do use Display Cal 3 it's the best bit of free software i have used.

Had a feeling that Benq was to cool and that's a massive amount over 6500k, looking at a video i can see it change but its a video so will not fully show the detail of the change. Plus i don't know what the original photo should look like, i.e the second part looks like a white moon, but is that because you think it should be white or did you take the photo and that's how it looked at the time of taking it? trying to use a photo of something that you don't know the reference colour for is not a good way to work out colour.

Few other things i should have added to my check list

1) Reset the nvidia / AMD control panel to default i.e. make sure you are not impacting colour from within the graphics settings before calibration or the tool will be fighting that as well.
2) I don't have an Nvidia card but does it have a full RGB setting? make sure its on Full not Limited.


Also did you check the gamma as per point 5 on my previous notes?

Do not forget that not many websites etc use white as a background its normally an off white, the only thing i can say that uses white is Paint in windows accessories, load that up on the calibrated screen if your on windows 10 and the default canvas is white, so should look white.

It takes time to get it right but once it clicks you will be flying, also don't forget if you re-calibrate make sure the profile is turned off in windows colour management before starting, you need to be on the most default settings you can to get the best calibration.

Keep at it, will be worth it in the end, it will take some time to adjust given how far off you had been working before.
 
I have watched the video and took into account all advice. I am trying with Display Cal and the end result looks like a low bit color palette. I took a picture https://we.tl/t-2pOKI7CtO4

What happens and it screws everything up? as a result grey looks very green etc. Completely awful as if my graphics card color settings have gone crazy. Looking at the calibration file when I do the "report on un-calibrated display device option" I get a Aprox. gamma = 1.#J. I don't know what reading is this so I have no idea of my current gamma level.

Thus far what I have managed to achieve is balanced RGB colors as they all line up in the middle and I get a ΔΕ value of 0.2-0.4 which is great I think? I have noticed however that if I redo the reading after an hour the 6550K that I had at the time has jumped up a thousand or so even though i haven't touched any settings.

At this point I just want to go through the calibration process without ending up in a color mess. Obviously something is going wrong here. Any clues?
 
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Hi James,

Been looking over the manual for your monitor to try and give you the best options, it appears the monitor has some sort of dynamic mode kicking in or something is changing over time resulting in the picture going crazy after you calibrate it, might be linked to the game mode.


Now given i'm trying to work out the settings by reading the manual you will need to guide me a little, so far from the manual i would do the following, in this order.

1) turn off the calibration in windows colour management by "un-ticking the use my settings for this device" box just under the monitors name.
2) turn off the display cal loader you will find it in the hidden icons on the windows task bar
3) reset the monitor to factory
4) make sure only 1 monitor is connected to the PC, i.e do not have the Benq monitor attached.

the above 4 steps should get you back to default. Also make sure your video card drivers are set to default

Next in the monitor settings (which i cannot see, so going off the manual).

1) set the picture mode to "PC mode" and pick "custom mode"
2) "color tone" setting "custom" (this should allow RGB control)
3) make sure samsung magic upscale is off
4) make sure eye saver mode is off
5) make sure game mode is off
6) if using HDMI make sure black level is normal

Its also not clear what Samsung magic bright is, but what ever it is turn if off, also check for any settings that read dynamic (insert option) and turn them off.


once you have done that, then load up display cal 3 with your spyder attached.

1) run "report" "report on un-calibrated display device" check gamma figure, the monitor should have 3 gamma settings "mode 1, 2 & 3" keep running that report till the gamma value is near 2.2 by changing the monitors gamma mode.

2) once you have a gamma value as near to 2.2 as you can, make sure under the calibration tab that white point is set to 6500k and that white level is on custom 120.00 cd/m2 and the tone curve is set to gamma 2.2.

3) then run the calibration as you have already done before i.e. alter the RGB and brightness settings as per the screen instructions.

4) once done take a screen grab of the colour space figures at the end, easy way to do this is "click on the box which has the figures in it" press "alt gr" that's the right alt key and print screen) go to windows paint and press paste, save the picture and post it.

5) then run the "report" "measurement report" and screen grab the top section and post it

See how that goes but do not connect the other monitor and see if it holds it settings.

report back when you can

nice one
 
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I have done said adjustments. I am using DPI so I don't get the HDMI black level option.

I cannot find out my gamma level is as I keep getting "Aprox. gamma = 1.#J". Other than this it seems to me that windows is sort of "buggy" setting the profiles. When DisplayCal calibrates my monitor I get that distorted view but once I go into windows color management and set it, or rather "re-click it" to make it my default profile" then everything seems to work properly, the color distortion goes away and I get a nice RGB balanced reading so obviously DisplayCal works for me but I just need to do what I just said for windows to swallow the new .icm. With that said do you experience the same issues? Why is this so tricky to get right? It is very tiring fixing one thing and then an other breaks.

I should mention the profile type that I use is XYZ LUT+ matrix. Perhaps this when applied is mixing windows color settings up?

The problem that am experiencing now other than the Gamma reading is that once my new .icm is the default setting my chrome/skype get distorted colors. Once I remove this .icm and go back to windows default .icm both apps get back to normal. I am also unsure what to put under "Windows Colour System default- Device Profile". Currently it is on sRGB virtual device model profile.
 
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