I got me 3D printer, awesome!
- Thread starter Pinter75
- Start date
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I got this one (link) and it works fine, even through the glass on my bed.
I suppose i you need to have an all round solution you could use the BLTouch or an infra red sensor?
I suppose i you need to have an all round solution you could use the BLTouch or an infra red sensor?
One of my printers doesn't have a metal bed so it needs to detect non metal beds, I have seen the BLTouch but along with the infra red sensor it's a little expensive.
I've order one from amazon as I needed some other items, so will give it a go.
J.
I've order one from amazon as I needed some other items, so will give it a go.
J.
Why I love my 3d printer
WYSIWYG. -- what you see is what you get.
Nah, what I designed is what I get....
I am so cack handed, rubbish at metalwork and woodwork, it's really nice to finish off a project with a reasonable result that does n't look like I beat a bit of wood with a hammer until it gave in.
The lid isn't just a lid, it has clips to hold the display boards and controls. ( it's a radio panel for FSX and prepar3d ).
Not finished by a long chalk, but it's looking OK
.
WYSIWYG. -- what you see is what you get.
Nah, what I designed is what I get....
I am so cack handed, rubbish at metalwork and woodwork, it's really nice to finish off a project with a reasonable result that does n't look like I beat a bit of wood with a hammer until it gave in.
The lid isn't just a lid, it has clips to hold the display boards and controls. ( it's a radio panel for FSX and prepar3d ).
Not finished by a long chalk, but it's looking OK
.
Associate
looking good 
Soldato
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Latest print from me. Needed a spool holder to work with the new extruder placement, and this design fits the bill (truth be told it's where I got the idea for relocating it from!).
Gave me a chance to try the RigidInk spool I've had sitting for a while now. Think it's a bit hot at 210, so I dialled it back to 200 but I think I'll go another 10 degrees lower next time. edit - I've just checked the RigidInk site and they recommend 180-200 with a bed temp of 50. Definitely scope to drop that then, awesome - quicker heat up times.
It's a bit bouncy so I may relocate it to hang down on the cupboard above if it starts to warp the prints. Will test during the week.
Pleased though, was a pig to print as the spool shaft is sub 5mm on the bed then it builds out off that. First time I've needed to use Prit Stick on the bed, but worked well enough.
Gave me a chance to try the RigidInk spool I've had sitting for a while now. Think it's a bit hot at 210, so I dialled it back to 200 but I think I'll go another 10 degrees lower next time. edit - I've just checked the RigidInk site and they recommend 180-200 with a bed temp of 50. Definitely scope to drop that then, awesome - quicker heat up times.
It's a bit bouncy so I may relocate it to hang down on the cupboard above if it starts to warp the prints. Will test during the week.
Pleased though, was a pig to print as the spool shaft is sub 5mm on the bed then it builds out off that. First time I've needed to use Prit Stick on the bed, but worked well enough.
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I have been busy working on my setup, did a fair bit of cable management and moved things under the desk (mounted to the underside), just got some linear rails delivered so thats the next job, oh and building a suitable case for my LCD and power switches.
Ghetto spool holder! yeah I may have forgot to print one out before moving everything around
Ghetto spool holder! yeah I may have forgot to print one out before moving everything around
Soldato
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So much want, that's well tidy!
I need that cable guide, works brilliantly.
Also, excellent use for a set of mole grips.
I need that cable guide, works brilliantly.
Also, excellent use for a set of mole grips.
Associate
Yeah I kinda forgot I hadnt printed the spool holder when I took the thing to pieces
Soldato
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Woo, it finally arrived. Now all I need is a bracket for it... Which is proving a bit of a challenge.
All the STLs for the standard carriage have a ridiculous amount of vertexes on them, so editing is a nightmare. You can't simplify them as a result, and I haven't had the time to get my head around the mind boggling number of options on Blender yet.
edit - actually I might have just found something, will report back tomorrow.
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Soldato
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Aaaand it doesn't work.
I matched the wiring to the original sensor colours (then swapped blue and brown over) and I'm getting the light on the sensor. That light changes colour when I touch the sensor but it doesn't detect the glass bed. Boo-urns.
Something tells me I have the wrong sensor in there, or there's a voltage issue...
edit - yep, I think it's voltage. The MKS board doesn't seem to put out enough, so looks like I'll be giving it a 12v feed at some point.
Al - what are you running on yours? Got a part number per chance please?
I matched the wiring to the original sensor colours (then swapped blue and brown over) and I'm getting the light on the sensor. That light changes colour when I touch the sensor but it doesn't detect the glass bed. Boo-urns.
Something tells me I have the wrong sensor in there, or there's a voltage issue...
edit - yep, I think it's voltage. The MKS board doesn't seem to put out enough, so looks like I'll be giving it a 12v feed at some point.
Al - what are you running on yours? Got a part number per chance please?
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I have a LJ18A3-8-Z/BX
Have you added resistors to drop the output signal voltage to around 5v ?
The sensor needs 12v to operate, have a look at this
I take the 12v and ground from the PSU, and then just the single wire back to the Z sensor socket.
Have you added resistors to drop the output signal voltage to around 5v ?
The sensor needs 12v to operate, have a look at this
I take the 12v and ground from the PSU, and then just the single wire back to the Z sensor socket.
Soldato
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I hadn't seen that vid, but have now. Everything makes a lot more sense now.
To Maplin!
To Maplin!
Associate
Hope the visit is not too expensive, 50p for the resistors, 100 pounds* for sundries
*Bloody Aus keyboards
*Bloody Aus keyboards
Soldato
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Well partial success insomuch as I'm now getting a strong reading from the sensor with the 12V feed.
I've incorporated the resistors into the circuit as per video and as per this page too (although that page quotes 100k and 150k as opposed to 10k and 15k) resistors. I measured the output on the Z min and I'm getting 3.2v open and 4.9v closed.
The sensor registers the bed at a good distance - 10mm was achieved so I'm happy it'll detect the bed. However that's where the good news ends. It's not sending the Z stop pulse to the MKS board no matter what I try.
Firmware is all setup as it should be: pullup resistor disabled, inverted the detection (was already set to this as the previour inductive sensor was wired the same way) and all the other good auto levelling stuff mentioned in the video.
I'm a bit stumped as to where to go from here, only thing I can think of is that I've fried something on the MKS board but I'd be really surprised if I have because the only time 12V was anywhere near that was after the resistors were installed.
Any ideas?
I've incorporated the resistors into the circuit as per video and as per this page too (although that page quotes 100k and 150k as opposed to 10k and 15k) resistors. I measured the output on the Z min and I'm getting 3.2v open and 4.9v closed.
The sensor registers the bed at a good distance - 10mm was achieved so I'm happy it'll detect the bed. However that's where the good news ends. It's not sending the Z stop pulse to the MKS board no matter what I try.
Firmware is all setup as it should be: pullup resistor disabled, inverted the detection (was already set to this as the previour inductive sensor was wired the same way) and all the other good auto levelling stuff mentioned in the video.
I'm a bit stumped as to where to go from here, only thing I can think of is that I've fried something on the MKS board but I'd be really surprised if I have because the only time 12V was anywhere near that was after the resistors were installed.
Any ideas?
Associate
How have you wired it up to the board and how are you providing 12v to the sensor?
I have 12v and Ground direct from the PSU to the sensor, and the signal wire going back to the z endstop connector - just the single wire - back on the MKS board. I am using a 10k and 15k resistor, as long as one is 150% the other its fine.
Also, how are you taking the voltage measurement?
I have 12v and Ground direct from the PSU to the sensor, and the signal wire going back to the z endstop connector - just the single wire - back on the MKS board. I am using a 10k and 15k resistor, as long as one is 150% the other its fine.
Also, how are you taking the voltage measurement?
Was the old sensor a Normally Open or Normally Closed one? In other words are the 2 sensors the same or do you need to change the detection type in the firmware.
Got to work out a way to attach the sensor to my Printrbot so I can use it with FLEKS3D plates, I think it's to big for the NFire1 unfortunately.
J.
Got to work out a way to attach the sensor to my Printrbot so I can use it with FLEKS3D plates, I think it's to big for the NFire1 unfortunately
.J.