I got me 3D printer, awesome!

Oh Ed not again. · 5 Jun 2016 at 10:42

I've tried it with ground from the PSU, and ground from the Z stop socket. Both no dice. Although I'm heading out to the garage in a minute to redo the whole circuit with a fresh head on.

I was previously using the bundled inductive sensor which is wired the same way as the new capacitive sensor, so the firmware is setup correctly. I'm assuming that even if the FW wasn't setup correctly the Z axis would stop immediately because it received a signal from the probe as soon as it started to home that axis?

bulb66 · 5 Jun 2016 at 11:01

You can use the M119 command to get the Endstop Status if that helps?

J.

Oh Ed not again. · 5 Jun 2016 at 11:03

Ah cool, didn't know about that one. I'll get Pronterface on there and have a look shortly.

xxalxx · 5 Jun 2016 at 11:18

Deffo plugging in the single wire into D18 for the Z- endstop? nothing else in there?

(I think the original sensor used 5v so could just use the standard connector, as the new one needs 12v, only the sensor pin is connected, 12v + ground is from the PSU)

Oh Ed not again. · 5 Jun 2016 at 11:27

Well M119 shows the probe open no matter what the LED says on the top of it.

Yep, it's definitely going into D18 (Z min plug, bottom pin as you're looking at the board)

Taking ground from the PSU the sensor light just flickers when there's a detection, so something isn't right there.

Oh Ed not again. · 5 Jun 2016 at 12:02

OK so if I just power the sensor from the PSU, I get 1.2v between ground and the trigger wire. That should be 0v closed and 12v open shouldn't it?

bulb66 · 5 Jun 2016 at 12:04

randal said:
OK so if I just power the sensor from the PSU, I get 1.2v between ground and the trigger wire. That should be 0v closed and 12v open shouldn't it?

I would think so yes, I'll try hooking mine up temporary and see what I get.

J.

bulb66 · 5 Jun 2016 at 12:18

OK so when I power on the sensor (connected to 12v only from a RAMPS board) I get 9.9V when not detecting (LED off) and 2.2V when detecting (LED On).

Maybe the small screw on top of the sensor is to change the detected V out?

J

bulb66 · 5 Jun 2016 at 12:25

Nope the little screw changes the detection distance

.

Oh Ed not again. · 5 Jun 2016 at 13:00

I get no discernible change when just powering the sensor. Hmm. I think it's borked.

I've pinged the seller for a replacement/refund, looks like it's back to mechanical Z stop for me for the time being.

Thanks for checking, much appreciated.

xxalxx · 5 Jun 2016 at 14:02

Shame, the increased range is useful so you can keep glass on top

I am just trying to design a x mount to attach to a linear rail.

What are the wire colours on yours?

Oh Ed not again. · 5 Jun 2016 at 15:03

Aye, was looking forward to having the glass bed and auto levelling. Soon enough though.

Brown, blue and black on mine.

Ah nice, that's what I was thinking rather than have a separate mount or something attaching to the hot end. Only that Blender beat me lol.

deuse · 10 Jun 2016 at 06:52

I've now upgraded my printer so now I can print every filament out there.

I took this out

Two motors\hot ends\extruder and metal back plate, and replaced it with this ghetto mod.

It's a £10 V6 clone all cleaned up, with great but cheap extruder.

xxalxx · 14 Jun 2016 at 03:29

How did you get on with the sensor Randal?

Deuse, did you not use the dual nozzles?

deuse · 14 Jun 2016 at 06:16

xxalxx said:
How did you get on with the sensor Randal?

Deuse, did you not use the dual nozzles?

Yes it had duel nozzles but now I'm only using one. But it's so much better.
I can print flexi filament a full speed, which was my aim.

Now I want a smaller carriage and make the bed larger. How's yours going?

Oh Ed not again. · 14 Jun 2016 at 07:33

xxalxx said:
How did you get on with the sensor Randal?

Deuse, did you not use the dual nozzles?

The cap sensor was diagnosed as faulty, and the replacement I ordered arrived only to find they've sent an inductive. Fortunately it reads the bed through the glass base so I'm persevering with it.

Circuit wise I had to use an additional 10k in parallel (don't ask lol) and it started working. The voltages are still out of whack, but it's working and nothing is on fire. Ended up enabling the pull-up resistor in the firmware too iirc.

Just need to tidy the wiring up and I'll be ready to print again later.

xxalxx · 14 Jun 2016 at 08:28

At least it all works in the end, I still have the same things to do! Got a new MKS Gen board ready to replace my slightly fault MKS Base board, got a linear rail to replace the x-axis, and loads of other things but seem to spend my time printing Robber Rex models to test out different filaments

Oh Ed not again. · 14 Jun 2016 at 08:55

Interesting. Any additional features on that board? Keep us posted on the X rail upgrade too.

My next mod is another Z lifter. I read the other night that Marlin can use the second extruder motor as an addition Z or Y motor running in sync with the existing motor. So I'm going to grab another Nema17, 8mm rod and fittings later this month and give it a whirl. I've grown weary of trying to balance the 1mm from side to side on the X because of uneven lifting!

xxalxx · 14 Jun 2016 at 10:57

It's just like the mks base but without integrated drivers for the nematode motors, though it does have 12v and 5v outputs for fans, LEDs etc : http://reprap.org/wiki/MKS_GEN_V1.1

I did think about adding a 2nd z motor, but the best solution seems to be to use a belt and pulleys to drive both lead-screws using a single motor : http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1512787

xxalxx · 14 Jun 2016 at 11:28

Actually I have just done more reading and am now leaning to the 2nd stepper motor idea!