Subwoofer for in the car, budget 200-300

twoblacklines said:
Hah i know people running more than 550wRMS through their tweeters for SQ, gain very low ofcourse.
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well they arent then, are they:o :p

Janesy B said:
A car is a very different sound environment to a house and you need to seriously overcompensate due to road noise and NVH.
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it's also a lot smaller and has a FAR higher gain at the bottom end. big speakers in cars really dont need a lot of power.
 
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I'm running a set of Rockfords up front with around 75W RMS each, then a 12" sub rated at about 250W RMS. You really don't need anything more than that to be honest.
 
Janesy B said:
A car is a very different sound environment to a house and you need to seriously overcompensate due to road noise and NVH.
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True but there is still no way you 'need' 550 watts.

My Audison SRX 3 puts out 250watt to the sub and that is wayyyyyyy more than I would ever need. My components up front being driven at 75 watt per chan crap out far before my sub comes close.

Edit: Liquidfox :p
 
Clarkey said:
With 550RMS it'll be much louder than a nightclub.
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It won't be 550 watts RMS @ anywhere near 4 ohms anyway, that would be mega ££!

And anyway as Clarkey said, even if you want nighclub volumes in your car (remember the cabin is small compared to your average room) you wouldn't need so much power :p.
 
What I will say, from experience, is loud music is much more enjoyable if you do it properly and sort the whole system out.

You say you want a lot of bass, but without decent speakers, if you crank the volume you're either going to have horrible distortion of the mid/trebble or worse, just a load of bass with the rest of the range much quieter.

Either way, you're just going to want to turn it down within a few minutes, after the vibrations get boring. Honestly, a well rounded loud system is a million times more satisfying than a very loud system that's just bass.

My shopping list would be a 4 way amp, a set of components and a 10/12" sub. Bridge one of the stereo pairs to the sub, use the other 2 for the fronts and fade 100% front to eliminate the rear speakers. Something like this:

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Amoeba said:
It won't be 550 watts RMS @ anywhere near 4 ohms anyway, that would be mega ££!

And anyway as Clarkey said, even if you want nighclub volumes in your car (remember the cabin is small compared to your average room) you wouldn't need so much power :p.
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I have 800wrms at 4 ohms for £75 :S
 
Robbie G said:
Incidental to the OP as he has a capable head unit, but it's not the major point, as you do not need preouts to amplify a head unit signal.
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yeah, thats all well and good if you leave the treble and bass controlls flat off. otherwise your sub will recieve the same bloated, probably usless below 20hz, signal the the headunit is driving the speakers with.

id rather a new headunit with a preout than bodging it with a high level signal.

twoblacklines said:
I have 800wrms at 4 ohms for £75 :S
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what is it?
 
a Dragster DA2002, old skool nice sounding class a/b amp.

also have 2 DA1002's which I will be using to run my mids actively eventually, bridged to 400wrms each, but low gain they will never see that unless i run tones through them which I wont, but its always nice to have excess power so not to clip them.

For tweeters I have a DA602, and also have another DA2002 but Im not really into streetbass anymore so dont need it.
 
james.miller said:
yeah, thats all well and good if you leave the treble and bass controlls flat off. otherwise your sub will recieve the same bloated, probably usless below 20hz, signal the the headunit is driving the speakers with.

id rather a new headunit with a preout than bodging it with a high level signal.
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Of course, anyone would rather have a new head unit than a line converter :confused: but then you'd have to spend £200 instead of £20. I'd rather have a Ferrari than a Fiat - and?

Anyway I was not debating the pros and cons of converters vs. pre-outs, but merely pointing out to Liquidfox that he was wrong when he said that pre-outs are required to amplify a head unit signal. I even said it was incidental to the OP's scenario in the hope of avoiding exactly this disparate discussion, but alas to no avail.
 
Robbie G said:
Of course, anyone would rather have a new head unit than a line converter :confused: but then you'd have to spend £200 instead of £20. I'd rather have a Ferrari than a Fiat - and?
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200 quid would get you a decent bit of kit these days - my kenwood with built in bluetooth, 3 SETS of preouts and digital time alignment was just under £180. even sub £100 head units will have a pre-out. of course spending money is not preferable to spending nothing, but id rather spend say..£80 on a headunit than £25 on a line convertor.
Anyway I was not debating the pros and cons of converters vs. pre-outs, but merely pointing out to Liquidfox that he was wrong when he said that pre-outs are required to amplify a head unit signal. I even said it was incidental to the OP's scenario in the hope of avoiding exactly this disparate discussion, but alas to no avail.
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i can appreciate than, but that would make an already arse sounding box sound even more arrrseee. i just wouldnt do it :p
 
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