Big Bike Thread

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Depends on the terms of the warranty, some manufacturers cover the costs to the shop. Normal method is they just supply the parts.

I've a friend who cracked his Specialized S-Works frame, the newer replacement frame used a tapered fork. So he had to shell out for new headset and he bought the new matching fork, selling his old one.

If it's me I'm just after the parts as I do my own work anyway.
 
collisster said:
Ah cheers, how does it compare to a downhill bike for smashing over stuff? I'm in 2 minds between something slopestyle / free ride and a full DH rig.
Thanks
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It's like a mini DH bike. I built mine with weight in mind rather than strength, even though it is quite burly. I've no doubt it'll take anything I throw at it!
Personally, I'd rather the freeride/slopestyle type of bike over the DH bike. I wanted a bike that could do EVERYTHING and one I could pedal all day. This fitted my spec just fine :)
Are you planning on doing any pedalling on the new bike, or just DH riding?
If you're definitely after a DH bike, look at the 951 (Link.)
SDK^ said:
I'm off to Afan for 2 days - it's going to be fun in the snow.
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I'm jealous. I live 20minutes away and was planning on heading there on the weekend but an infection of mostly all of me will prevent it :( :(
Despite that, I'm not sure I'd get there with the snow we've had up here. ;)
 
Out of interest, how much does your bike weigh rhysduck?

I got up Pitfichie on wednesday and it was unridable at the top. :( Had a shed load more snow today and going by the forcast I won't be on the bike for a couple of weeks :(
 
Looking at getting a proper pair of shorts to wear for cycling. Looking at Endura products but from some of the reviews on CRC their build quality sometimes lack.

Anyone here using Endura shorts (baggy style like the SingleTrack) or any other Endura stuff can give me their experience on the build quality...
 
I've got a pair of Endura Hummvee baggy shorts and I've no complaints about the build quality. I've had them for over a year now and they've survived falls onto gravel and stone better than my skin has! :D

The Singletrack shorts have tougher stitching, the Hummvee shorts include the padded liner.
 
going back to the guys discussing warranty costs etc,

i deal with Giant, Merida, Raleigh, Falcon and a few of Moore Larges brands and as far as im aware, on the back of each cycle owners manual, the warranty states the terms and conditions.

Certainly with the brands i do, NONE of them cover you for any other costs apart from the damaged item. I personally think this is wrong however its just "the way it is".

I tend to take each customer on a "by basis", if they have been genuinly nice, non aggressive etc then i cover all work for them apart from shipping the damaged item back to the supplier, if however the come in ranting and raving etc then i ll show the the back of their owners manual and highlight that no costs are covered.

I currently have a Giant Twist Express RS2 in the shop for repair which is almost 2 years old. during those 2 years the customer has brought it in for 2x services, the first service also included a new warrenty part fitted and supplied free of charge as i found a fault with the torque sensor.

The customer brought it in a few days ago for 2x £30 puncture proof tyres, service and brake blocks, possibly some new cables, he mentioned that the electric side of things was playing up again, running through the diagnostics with mark from Giant we found 2 possible causes, 2 days later i had a brand new front wheel/motor assembly, and a new controller box, totally free of charge and delivered from Holland.

I phoned the customer, informed him his work would cost roughly £100/120 not including the warrenty parts which will be free of charge including my time for fitting them.

If any bike shop fobs you off, then they probably are doing what their allowed to do, however its up to you and your bike shop if the customer you had with the dodgy Kona frame are worth keeping.....
 
eXist said:
going back to the guys discussing warranty costs etc,

i deal with Giant, Merida, Raleigh, Falcon and a few of Moore Larges brands and as far as im aware, on the back of each cycle owners manual, the warranty states the terms and conditions.

Certainly with the brands i do, NONE of them cover you for any other costs apart from the damaged item. I personally think this is wrong however its just "the way it is".

I tend to take each customer on a "by basis", if they have been genuinly nice, non aggressive etc then i cover all work for them apart from shipping the damaged item back to the supplier, if however the come in ranting and raving etc then i ll show the the back of their owners manual and highlight that no costs are covered.

I currently have a Giant Twist Express RS2 in the shop for repair which is almost 2 years old. during those 2 years the customer has brought it in for 2x services, the first service also included a new warrenty part fitted and supplied free of charge as i found a fault with the torque sensor.

The customer brought it in a few days ago for 2x £30 puncture proof tyres, service and brake blocks, possibly some new cables, he mentioned that the electric side of things was playing up again, running through the diagnostics with mark from Giant we found 2 possible causes, 2 days later i had a brand new front wheel/motor assembly, and a new controller box, totally free of charge and delivered from Holland.

I phoned the customer, informed him his work would cost roughly £100/120 not including the warrenty parts which will be free of charge including my time for fitting them.

If any bike shop fobs you off, then they probably are doing what their allowed to do, however its up to you and your bike shop if the customer you had with the dodgy Kona frame are worth keeping.....
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It is rather mental isn't it? We deal with Cannondale(and also GT/mongoose/WTP then), Felt,Kona and the moore large brands.

The shop is run by two owners with one saying it's crap and in a customers shoes they would be ****ed off and the other sees it from a pure business side of things.

Parts warranties isn't usually too much of a problem when dealing with CSG, one call and you have a new part and told to bin the old one.
 
I've got a semi-technical question which seems worth asking here before joining a mtb forum. Hopefully one of you chaps has some knowledge of single speed conversions. Specifically, what's the acceptable tolerance on centre distance?

I've had my back wheel stolen, so it needs to be replaced. I fancy building a wheel myself, and quite like the idea of a single speed / fixed gear bike, so now seems a good time to do both. My bike has vertical drop outs, and I'm hoping to avoid using a chain tensioner. Hopefully there's a few gear ratios which allow this, I'm trying to work out which. Sheldon Brown's site has a few dead links and google hasn't gone well.

Bicycle chain looks like 1/2" BS roller chain to me, so it's possible to check recommended center distances with Fenner chains. Spending an hour or so poring through the tables should give me several reasonable combinations. I've measured 425+/-3mm from bottom bracket to rear axle, if that needs to be more precise it can be. The tables are unlikely to include a suitable ratio for 425mm though.

I assume if it's too tight the chain will bind and/or snap, and if it's too loose the chain will slip under pressure and braking may prove difficult. So I expect to err on the side of too loose, but how many mm too loose can I go?

Many thanks :)
 
Im looking for the best way of making my Epic lighter for next years racing.
Mrs Janesy has 'promised' to get me a few prezzies for Xmas.

j11v2v.jpg


Can I improve this?

Pls - dont suggest wheels or anything else :)
 
You haven't said what the parts are you're replacing (specialized?) and what they weigh in comparison.

One of the easiest ways to lose weight and gain reliability is tubeless.
 
Thanks 6th, its a Specialized Epic Evo 2011. Spesh command post. Standard bar. heavy tyres.

The question is; Spec me the lightest post, good race tyres and bar.
 
CNT bar for £20.99? :eek: I had a few heavy crashes on that bar and it looks totally fine. There are lighter but VFM wise that can't be beaten.


I thought you were looking for the Eclipse tubes? Have a look for the new Conti Racesport tyres. Tubeless ready and <500g

As much as a bargain the Easton post is, carbon post + Alu frame = looks like ****.
 
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