Big Bike Thread

Zowghi · 5 Jan 2011 at 17:07

ichabod crane said:
The travel is the same on the Heckler 150mm, you swapped Chris King ISOs for Pro IIs??

Not item for item. I sold then ISO's to buy some ProII's. I was looking to spend £1000 (which is a **** load of beans to a student) and went over budget by £600 so i had to sell them. I bought them as part of a deal off someone splitting a new bike. I got an SLX triple crankset, Nobby Nics, ISO's on 5.1d's and Rockshox Revelation Team forks all new for £690. The guy wouldnt sell me anything if i didnt have the wheels so i bought them, used them for a couple of days at the trail centre and then moved them on.

ichabod crane · 5 Jan 2011 at 17:34

Zowghi said:
Andelusion what seatpost is that on your Enduro? Joplin?
I've been thinking about one for a while now. Do they work very well?

It is one of these http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=37&products_id=212 with a remote.

Andelusion · 5 Jan 2011 at 17:53

Zowghi said:
Andelusion what seatpost is that on your Enduro? Joplin?
I've been thinking about one for a while now. Do they work very well?

As Ichabod pointed out, it's an i950, with a remote, so i950-r made by Kind Shock.

Works great, lots of different models of adjustable seatpost coming out now, this has been flawless in probably 9 months of use (not sure exactly), they're heavier and obviously a lot more expensive than normal seatposts but the luxury of shoving your saddle up to full height for climbs then lowering it for the occasional jump/drop is fantastic, and if you're a hack like me then you need all the help you can get.

The first generation of seatposts (like the i900) had a few problems, but they seem to be sorting them out now, that being said I also have an i900r which seems good. Check out the RockShox Reverb, Specialized Command Post and mavity Dropper for some other popular choices. There's also a few huge threads on mtbr forums (in the All Mountain sub-forum) about the various posts mentioned.

Zowghi · 5 Jan 2011 at 18:51

Yea ive heared bad things about the i900, which is why i asked. I think ill check those out. I'm always stopping to drop my saddle for those big decents and it can be a real pain

andi · 5 Jan 2011 at 21:00

My i950r is ace too, except the remote cable freezes when it gets really cold

Supercow · 5 Jan 2011 at 21:19

Zowghi said:
Thats a nice bike. I looked at the Heckler but went with the Compulsion1 as its slightly lighter and comes with 150mm travel (also it was new and cheap). Never thought of using anything but an RP23 though. what travel do you get on that?

Im only small myself so it does me fine. I like the bash, a friend thinks its too much. I'm looking to swap out the wheels for some red ProIIs. this pic it has Chris King Iso's but ive got ProII on it now (the wheels were to expensive for a student budget)

Here it is in colour:

Holy mother of spacersunderthestem!

Zowghi · 5 Jan 2011 at 21:51

Supercow said:
Holy mother of spacersunderthestem!

I know, the steerer is uncut and i thought it was a good opportunity to shift my weight towards the back of the bike so i can ride over huge rocks much easier when im in the lakes.

I'm not sure if its as clever of an idea as i think though

Supercow · 5 Jan 2011 at 21:57

Id Imagine getting your weight over the front of the bike (i.e: lowering the front end) would make it easier to get over such things.

janesssssy · 5 Jan 2011 at 22:25

SDK^ said:
I did the 50km Winter Challenge today crossing Salisbury Plains.
My overall was time 2hrs 36 mins plus 17 minutes stationary fixing a puncture - grrrr

Details here - http://connect.garmin.com/activity/61607599

It's a very well organised event and a great start to the new year

Which number were you?

http://web.me.com/duncansnow/SPAM_Winter_Challenge/Photos/Pages/Winter_Challenge_2011.html

Zowghi · 5 Jan 2011 at 23:44

Supercow said:
Id Imagine getting your weight over the front of the bike (i.e: lowering the front end) would make it easier to get over such things.

I cant see how that would work. When climbing up rock fields its the front that get stuck, once the front is up just shift weight forwards. It also helps with downhill

Supercow · 5 Jan 2011 at 23:51

Zowghi said:
I cant see how that would work. When climbing up rock fields its the front that get stuck, once the front is up just shift weight forwards. It also helps with downhill

Yeap, when climbing you don't want your front doing wheelies if you pedal hard.
For the fun bit (going down) you 100% want to get your front end lower so you can get your elbows stuck out and in the attach position, keeping your head over the stem with a nice low centre of mavity.

the pokemon kid · 5 Jan 2011 at 23:53

Hey guys, well I ride a bit of DH here and there. The bike that i have got is a 2007 Kona stinky. Really great bike, only thing I have changed is the bars and stem to the Funn flatout bars and the SMX stem as I bent the bars and they were being sold in a combo.

Supercow · 6 Jan 2011 at 00:00

the pokemon kid said:
Hey guys, well I ride a bit of DH here and there. The bike that i have got is a 2007 Kona stinky. Really great bike, only thing I have changed is the bars and stem to the Funn flatout bars and the SMX stem as I bent the bars and they were being sold in a combo.

Welcome to the thread... we need pics of your bike though, it's what feeds us bikegeeks

the pokemon kid · 6 Jan 2011 at 00:06

I haven't got any more images on this computer as everything has been moved off. I will get some BPorn pictures of my bike soon though.

Zowghi · 6 Jan 2011 at 00:20

Supercow said:
Yeap, when climbing you don't want your front doing wheelies if you pedal hard.
For the fun bit (going down) you 100% want to get your front end lower so you can get your elbows stuck out and in the attach position, keeping your head over the stem with a nice low centre of mavity.

That makes sence. Lower CoM will make cornering more responsive right? So i should lower the stem a little? I have U-Turn which is just brill for the long climbs

ichabod crane · 6 Jan 2011 at 08:23

Zowghi said:
I know, the steerer is uncut and i thought it was a good opportunity to shift my weight towards the back of the bike so i can ride over huge rocks much easier when im in the lakes.

I'm not sure if its as clever of an idea as i think though

Weight forward keep the front tyre planted for uber fast descending!! If you don't want to cut the steerer move the stem to the bottom and put the spacers above.

Zowghi · 6 Jan 2011 at 11:21

ichabod crane said:
Weight forward keep the front tyre planted for uber fast descending!! If you don't want to cut the steerer move the stem to the bottom and put the spacers above.

Thanks. Lets see this bike pokemon kid

weescott · 6 Jan 2011 at 12:51

Opinions have changed a lot on bar height. Especially with DH.

Look at the difference in front end height between a new DH bike and an old school DH bike:

Completly different riding position.

6thElement · 6 Jan 2011 at 13:02

So my 15" BB height with a Super Monster T fork is no longer cutting edge?

Zowghi · 6 Jan 2011 at 14:32

weescott said:
Opinions have changed a lot on bar height. Especially with DH.

Look at the difference in front end height between a new DH bike and an old school DH bike:

*snip*

Completly different riding position.

Yea i see what you mean.

I have another question! I see a lot of bikes with different tyres on the front and back. mostly less tread on the rear, why is this?