Op if you don't know what your doing then get a electrician in...
To wire in a cooker you really need to know what your doing....
to wire in a plug i call an electrician aswell, cant be to careful changing lightbulbs either
Op if you don't know what your doing then get a electrician in...
To wire in a cooker you really need to know what your doing....
So just because it apparently isn't covered under the wiring regulations, doesn't mean to say it isn't covered under part p of the building regulations. It's still a flippin regulation be it wiring regs or building regs. You're wrong. Just admit it. I admitted my mistake earlier. Be a man and grow up.
Just listen to yourself, you dont have a clue.It's still a flippin regulation be it wiring regs or building regs.
Just listen to yourself, you dont have a clue.
Like I have said many many times, what BS7671 says, goes, I have said what the law is and what is allowed, fact. End of.
to wire in a plug i call an electrician aswell, cant be to careful changing lightbulbs either


Ok, there is a few things we need to get straight here. My understanding is that the op has his cooker switch as pictured, then he has a 13A socket outlet round the back of his cooker used for the ignition. If the op wants to wire an electric cooker into this 13A socket, first he will need to remove it and confirm the wires inside are 6mm. If so, then he needs to buy a faceplate as linked HERE remove the socket outlet which is supplying the ignition and fit this faceplate in it's place. He can then buy some 6mm cable and run it from his cooker into the faceplate. Jobs a goodun. He could do the work himself as it's a simple job, but legally he needs it certifying by a competent person who is able to complete a minor electrical installations works certificate.
If the faceplate is already in place where the cooker resides, then he can just buy some 6mm cable and run it from the cooker and wire it into the faceplate behind the cooker. Job done and no need for certificates or notification to local authorities. (Because at a guess, it's not classed as fixed wiring but i could be wrong)
Ok, there is a few things we need to get straight here. My understanding is that the op has his cooker switch as pictured, then he has a 13A socket outlet round the back of his cooker used for the ignition. If the op wants to wire an electric cooker into this 13A socket, first he will need to remove it and confirm the wires inside are 6mm. If so, then he needs to buy a faceplate as linked HERE remove the socket outlet which is supplying the ignition and fit this faceplate in it's place. He can then buy some 6mm cable and run it from his cooker into the faceplate. Jobs a goodun. He could do the work himself as it's a simple job, but legally he needs it certifying by a competent person who is able to complete a minor electrical installations works certificate.
If the faceplate is already in place where the cooker resides, then he can just buy some 6mm cable and run it from the cooker and wire it into the faceplate behind the cooker. Job done and no need for certificates or notification to local authorities. (Because at a guess, it's not classed as fixed wiring but i could be wrong)
The OP already has the cooker switch and cooker outlet in place (in this case the cooker outlet is fitted with a single plug socket), all he needs to is buy a cooker outlet to replace the plug socket that is there and hard wire the cooker cable (which should be already connected to the cooker) to it.... That is it, and he is perfectly allowed to do that by law.
If he doesn't have a clue about electrics however and isn't confident they by all means use an electrician, but he is perfectly allowed to do so by law. And is also very simple and just a matter of connecting the single set of red/green/black (or brown/gren/blue) cables in the wall to the other other set of 3 cables that come from the cooker via the cooker outlet which has 3 terminals one for each colour and labelled L(red/brown) E(green/copper) N(black/blue) and stick the faceplate on, much like a socket just bigger cables.
And dont try and use special words like 'ignition' to try and sound like you actually know what you are talking about because it makes you sound even more silly.
What sounds so silly about ignition? That's what it's being used for at a guess. To ignite the gas burners or oven. Are you on your period or something?
I still stand by my facts about needing a minor electrical installation works certificate if he is going to change the face plates over. I've posted references to it. It's there for all to see. OP make of it what you will.
You are as clear as day wrong and talking bs and are now being childish, anyone can see that now. I finished college after 3 years more than 4 years ago, and don't care what you think if im good or not? Facts are facts law is law and I know what the facts and law is and have said it, you don't know and were wrong and slipped up multiple times looking like a right nob, you cant argue with the fact that you are perfectly allowed to change a fitting such as a docket in the kitchen withotu permission or certification.I am right and you are wrong so just give over. Oh, and do you really think i care if you're an electrician of x amount of years? Not a very good one at that. 6 years? You've barely left college. Mr know it all without giving black and white evidence. What a plonker.
I'm an electrician, but it's a trade you never stop learning. Sometimes you just have to accept defeat and admit you're wrong.
** Removed ***The only person looking like a nob is you young man. Part p is part of the building regs. It's a requirement of law. Originally i thought it was under BS7671 but i was wrong in that. I edited my post because it was false. What i have left unedited is fact.
Where is your evidence backing up your imaginary facts? 4 hours we've been arguing and you still haven't provided any backup. I've posted mine, now it's your turn. Oh let me guess. I don't need to post evidence because it's a fact - OR- i don't need to prove myself to you.
Get over yourself.
No, you are a fool.
Part P is a regulation on its own, it is not part of building standards no matter what you have read on the internet and it is not required by law, Part P does include everything within 17th edition which is the law (you will still obviously need 17th edition to be qualified, part P is just a credential any one can pay for) but some extra safety regulations that are not required by law but required for Part P certification, such as the one you pointed out after a search on google.
If you had the slightest clue what you were talking about and really were an electrician you would know first hand the answer straigt away and wouldn't even be saying most the stuff you are let alone taking ages to search google and see what you can find on pages of the internet and make the facepalm mistakes and phrases/edits you did, all the facts are in the book of law which is the 17th edition British Standards 7671, Part P I have explained time and time again is just Part P, and what 17th edition says goes and is the law.
Under 17th edition regulations and law, you are allowed to change a fitting in your kitchen such as a socket without the need for permission or certification.
If you wasn't allowed then it would list it under 'Additional alterations to an installation' or 'Alterations and additions to an installation'
And it doesn't because you are perfectly allowed to do it.
The proof is the fact and law in the bs7671
All you have done is look on the internet and posted a few pictures of a book which is written by someone and is 7671/part p guide for dummys and not the law but a book that makes it easy to understan part p and 17th edition that is not proof *facepalm* that is just proof that Part P has a certain regulation. The proof is the fact that by law and 17th edition requirements you are allowed to change a fitting in the kitchen.... you cant argue against it because thats just the way it is.
Now ill stop running in circles because its clear to everyone you are just talking out your ass and dont really know youself.
I searched on the internet to provide proof to shut you up. You obviously have a problem with someone trying to provide extra weight to back up their claims, but so what if i did? At least i have done which is more than what you've done. I don't claim to know everything like you do, and i'll openly admit if i'm wrong. Anyone who does claim to know it all is FOS.
^^^^^
While you 2 are arguing amongst yourselves, i'll answer the OP's question.
A dual fuel double oven normally has 4 gas burners on top, an electric grill/oven under the burners and a main electric oven at the bottom. If that is the case with your new cooker, then you need to do the following:
1)Isolate the cooker switch on the fuseboard.
2)Remove the single socket and check that the cable feeding it is 6mm T&E. If it's 2.5mm T&E, then replace it with 6mm T&E.
3)Fit a cooker outlet plate in place of the single socket, along with about 2m of 6mm T&E to connect to your new cooker.
4)Connect the gas bayonet to the gas wall plate.
If your new cooker has a gas grill/top oven, just plug it into the socket and connect the gas as in (4).
ALL double ovens need a 30/40 amp supply because of course you can use both ovens at the same time and the 2 together will pull more than 13 amps.
But if the top oven/grill is gas, you then only have a single electric oven and therefore only need a 13 amp supply (normal single socket).