Road Cycling Essentials

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thanks guys for the compact/double question i had, i think ill try and ge a bike with a compact but if i get a nice bike S/H with a double on it at a good price then ill go for it :)
 
[DOD]Asprilla;22695637 said:
Please clamp the seat post. It's easier and cheaper to replace than the top tube if it gets crushed!
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Padded clamp crush the top tube? Don't be silly it would be near impossible for me to manually put that much force on it to do any damage at all. :confused:
 
Firestar_3x said:
Hi Guys, i'm after a new Road Bike, looking around the 1.2 - 2k range, what are the sales usually like over christmas? Is it worth holding off till after christmas?
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You will get some massive bargains in extreme sizes, so perfect if you're either a midget or basketball player. :p
 
One bolt fell out of each shoe on the way to work this morning, that was funny when I tried to unclip!
first cleat inspired fall, may they all be this pain free!

so, point of business, are all cleat bolts the same?
 
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Isn't it more of a risk with clamping a carbon top tube?

I need to get one of those stands, unfortunately I missed out on the £30 Lidl stand.
 
Shamrock said:
Isn't it more of a risk with clamping a carbon top tube?

I need to get one of those stands, unfortunately I missed out on the £30 Lidl stand.
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To be fair it's best practice to use the seat post. Some would also switch a carbon seatpost out for an alu one. I only propped it back up to grab a quick photo but the chances of crushing the ALU top tube with that clamp are less than nil. I picked my stand up a few months ago and they seem to come up a few times a year if you can wait otherwise I think your looking at at least £60+ online.

Firestar_3x said:
I'm 5ft 11 with longish legs, think i'm going to buy a Cube, we shall see.
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Cubes offer pretty good value for money but they measure there geometry a bit 'funky' compared to most other brands so definitely try a couple out if you can so you know which size to get.
 
Apologies if this has already been answered previously as this thread is pretty big!

But with the night drawing in Im looking at some decent lights , Budget around £100 for front and back.

I ride along unlit country roads travelling to and from work any suggestions would be great.

Been looking at something like this for the front http://www.google.co.uk/products/ca...=MfpEUMnNBOmL0AWap4CwBg&sqi=2&ved=0CE4Q8wIwAw

As for the back I had cateye ones before but they didn't seem to waterproof as they shorted out with what I assume was water getting in.
 
There was some good discussion on lights a couple of days ago. Some recommendations for Hope Vision 1's around £55-£70 (front) and a few for Chinese cree lights of the bay/Amazon that seem to be much brighter/cheaper. Another recommendation was for a "Phillips bike light".
 
Shamrock said:
Isn't it more of a risk with clamping a carbon top tube?

I need to get one of those stands, unfortunately I missed out on the £30 Lidl stand.
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It's any frame really. I've booked an old steel hybrid frame into my LBS to have a BB removed. Frame is completely stripped but they have asked me put the seat post back in for this very reason.
 
I shall keep that in mind if I ever get a stand. I've got a carbon seat post too but don't really have an alloy spare lying around to swap it out with.
 
divaboy said:
To be honest been reading this thread http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/...819&mid=0&i=0&nmt=Light+recommendations&mid=0 and not sure whether to risk buying one from DX site but don't fancy the external battery pack how do you mount that on a road bike?

Think I will get a Lezyne front light but can't decide on a back light as I really don't fancy risking a cateye one again
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I have some torch style ones (the batteries go inside) which i use most of the time. I also have an older one with an external battery pack, it's handy because the battery pack is much bigger and therefore lasts longer. I mounted it inside an old bottle and it sits happily in the bottle cage.
 
Shamrock said:
I shall keep that in mind if I ever get a stand. I've got a carbon seat post too but don't really have an alloy spare lying around to swap it out with.
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You should be ok clamping by the seatpost. The post is designed to be compressed (because thats how the clamp holds it in place) but the top tube is not intended to be compressed. Even on an alu frame the tubes can be very thin in the middle of the tubes. Most manufacturers use butted tubes which are thicker at the ends where they are joined/welded and thinner in the centre sections to save weight. If you ping your fingernail off the tube you can hear the difference in thickness between the ends and the middle.
 
Is there a jack of all trades road bike? would like something fairly comfortable that I can use for long distances as well as climbing and sprints, really getting into watching road cycling and triathlon on eurosport and wouldn't mind doing a shorter (sprint) triathlon myself at some point in the future. This would be my first road bike btw.
 
pumaz said:
Is there a jack of all trades road bike? would like something fairly comfortable that I can use for long distances as well as climbing and sprints, really getting into watching road cycling and triathlon on eurosport and wouldn't mind doing a shorter (sprint) triathlon myself at some point in the future. This would be my first road bike btw.
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id like to know as well

been looking at endurance with hill climbs and sprints in mind too, becuase i live in the sticks! lol

just read this about different frames, worth a read :
http://www.brightspoke.com/c/understanding/bike-frame-materials.html
 
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