Road Cycling Essentials

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I think I lost some points this morning as well, but I can't decide. I was tanking along at normal speed which is around 22-24mph (usually faster than all the cyclists on my route) and I was passed by some bloke dressed head to foot in Specialized gear like I was standing still. Admittedly he was in extra effort mode because he slowed significantly when some way ahead, but even so. So he had all the gear and carbon bike (with gears) which usually negates points usage, but on the flipside I'm a seasoned regular rider and I had my gear on this morning with sunglasses, which I don't normally wear. I think I blame my new shorts - they clearly aren't as fast as my old ones.
 
I think I lost some points this morning as well, but I can't decide. I was tanking along at normal speed which is around 22-24mph (usually faster than all the cyclists on my route) and I was passed by some bloke dressed head to foot in Specialized gear like I was standing still. Admittedly he was in extra effort mode because he slowed significantly when some way ahead, but even so. So he had all the gear and carbon bike (with gears) which usually negates points usage, but on the flipside I'm a seasoned regular rider and I had my gear on this morning with sunglasses, which I don't normally wear. I think I blame my new shorts - they clearly aren't as fast as my old ones.

Sounds like you need to run the numbers.
 
I have a number of questions not necessarily related to each other, I commute cycle only, about 80 miles a week on a hybrid (I actually have two, a Mongoose and Specialized).

1. For the Mongoose I've noticed to go up 1 gear I actually have to go up 2 and then down 1, why would that be?
2. For the Specialized the left hand gear changer (you might have guessed I'm still learning!) doesn't appear to actually work, when I get to a descent I go into my top gear on the right but end up just free spinning when pedalling and there is no push! Why?
3. I don't get passed that often, mainly by people on road bikes. So given my 80 miles a week is it worth an upgrade?
 
I got a 4. Think that's a pretty normal score though.

@PaulStat if you're happy with the bike you have I would spend some money servicing it, it sounds to me (and I have only a basic understanding) the gear cable needs adjusting.
 
I bought a second pair of the DhB Aeron shorts I was so happy with the first. Especially given the price.

Are they the Aeron Pro version?

I like them, but I find they don't hold up very well.
I used a pair for about 9 months and the stitching around the chamois on the outside started to fray and made a hole.

They sent me a replacement pair when I complained, which I've only given a couple of rides in and the same thing is already happening again. Its like the stitching doesn't hold up very well to friction on the saddle, in a way that I've never seen other shorts do.
 
I have a number of questions not necessarily related to each other, I commute cycle only, about 80 miles a week on a hybrid (I actually have two, a Mongoose and Specialized).

1. For the Mongoose I've noticed to go up 1 gear I actually have to go up 2 and then down 1, why would that be?

Your cable is a bit loose I reckon, or at the least needs indexing.

2. For the Specialized the left hand gear changer (you might have guessed I'm still learning!) doesn't appear to actually work, when I get to a descent I go into my top gear on the right but end up just free spinning when pedalling and there is no push! Why?

I'm not sure exactly what you mean. When it spins out are you already in the biggest cog front/smallest one rear? (in which case there's not a lot you can do) or is it in a lower gear and won't change to a higher one? If it's the second it'll be cable tension/indexing again.

3. I don't get passed that often, mainly by people on road bikes. So given my 80 miles a week is it worth an upgrade?

Hard to say. If you're comfortable on your current bike, then brilliant. If you've got some cash burning a hole in your pocket and want to join the roadie club then go nuts.
 
hey guys

Going back to me getting a CX bike

been speaking (or rather emailing) a guy at where I got my bike from (I had a bike fit from them) asked them if they still had my details and could they recommend me a CX bike

The said to get a Specialized Crux, but when I then mentioned I need mud guard mounts they said they don't have them, so they are now saying this -



No mudguard mounts.
This has them http://www.sigmasport.co.uk/item/Specialized/Secteur-Sport-Disc-Compact-Road-Bike-2013/1HVP and disc brakes. It also has clearance for knobbly tyres. Would make a great winter bike and can do some off road too.



So what do you think ? im a bitt confused as to why it can take nobly tyres when its a roadie?
 
Got hold of someone from Wiggle, and someone from the workshop will be in contact with me.

I also got an email today from chainreaction saying they are replacing my helmet, which I sent a complaint about over the weekend as the velcro liners have started to separate and not stick to the helmet, so bit of a pain to have no road bike for next little while, but hopefully have a new helmet and wheel out of it with some luck :D

Helmet pic..

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g197/paulinportsmouth/IMG_20130630_114957_zps133788de.jpg
 
No mudguard mounts.
This has them http://www.sigmasport.co.uk/item/Specialized/Secteur-Sport-Disc-Compact-Road-Bike-2013/1HVP and disc brakes. It also has clearance for knobbly tyres. Would make a great winter bike and can do some off road too.



So what do you think ? im a bitt confused as to why it can take nobly tyres when its a roadie?

It's not as simple as road bike = no chunky tyres

Generally the Paris Roubaix inspired bikes (Specialized Secteur, Trek Domane etc) have clearance for bigger tyres but are nominally road bikes. The idea is bigger tyres mean lower pressures so more comfortable and lower rolling resistance for the cobbles. It also stops mud clogging up in your forks on those miserable Spring Classics days.
 
The biggest limiting factor for tyre clearance on road bikes is the brake calipers.
So generally, disc brakes = much more tyre clearance.
 
It's not as simple as road bike = no chunky tyres

Generally the Paris Roubaix inspired bikes (Specialized Secteur, Trek Domane etc) have clearance for bigger tyres but are nominally road bikes. The idea is bigger tyres mean lower pressures so more comfortable and lower rolling resistance for the cobbles. It also stops mud clogging up in your forks on those miserable Spring Classics days.

thanks

ok, so, im guessing the Geometry is different from a CC bike, and the secteur you cant take as big tyres like the CX bike?

ideally I want it for winter road with mudguards, and in the summer, I want to be able to take the wheels (or just tyres) and put big off road ones on so I can do Cross country, would this be ok?
 
i've promised my self that if i pull through this year and get the permanent contract at the end of the year im buying my self a bike for 1k.. the uhm factor comes when i need to decide.. SS or CX? mind you the thing will be ridden all-year-round.
 
ideally I want it for winter road with mudguards, and in the summer, I want to be able to take the wheels (or just tyres) and put big off road ones on so I can do Cross country, would this be ok?

Depends what you mean by 'Cross Country'?
It would be fine for exploring canal paths, forest paths, blue/green routes at trail centres and things like that.
It would be a struggle to try and do a cross country race on it though.
 
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