Road Cycling Essentials

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uniQ said:
What PSI do folks like to run at?
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My Lithion 2s say 115psi on the side, so 115 it is. The back one seems to go flat on a fairly regular basis, so I think it's got a slow puncture or something, or maybe just a naff valve, but I've not bothered changing it just yet.
 
I just try and get as close to the following formula, seems to work:

Tire Width=20: Pressure(psi) = (0.33 * Rider Weight in lbs) + 63.33
Tire Width=23: Pressure(psi) = (0.33 * Rider Weight in lbs) + 53.33
Tire Width=25: Pressure(psi) = (0.33 * Rider Weight in lbs) + 43.33
Tire Width=28: Pressure(psi) = (0.33 * Rider Weight in lbs) + 33.33
Tire Width=32: Pressure(psi) = (0.17 * Rider Weight in lbs) + 41.67
Tire Width=37: Pressure(psi) = (0.17 * Rider Weight in lbs) + 26.67

Front Pressure = .9*Rear Pressure
 
platypus said:
A worn chain will have stretched both the links and worn the teeth on the cassette in a fashion unique to its stretched shape, so won't fit onto a newer cassette as well affecting shifting.
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topgun06 said:
Yep, yep. Or skipping teeth when applying power.
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I can cope with replacing the chain. Is it going to cause problems with the chain rings?
 
I seem to run my tyres way too low! Going on that calculator I should run around 105 up front. I'm lucky if I run 90. I must look into this. When people are pumping tyres how much effort is required to get to 110? I'm using a decent enough track pump.
 
I always run 120 Front and Rear (23 or 25). No extra effort w/ pump using same as Asprilla.

I noticed on the 4000s box it says max PSI 120 though and recommended is 110 for 23mm & 95psi for 25mm.

Might try F:100 R:115 on next ride.
 
nydryl said:
I seem to run my tyres way too low! Going on that calculator I should run around 105 up front. I'm lucky if I run 90. I must look into this. When people are pumping tyres how much effort is required to get to 110? I'm using a decent enough track pump.
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I'm using a Blackburn Airtower 2. It takes about 20 pumps to get from an empty tyre to 120 or thereabouts. It's easy.
 
uniQ said:
I always run 120 Front and Rear (23 or 25). No extra effort w/ pump using same as Asprilla.

I noticed on the 4000s box it says max PSI 120 though and recommended is 110 for 23mm & 95psi for 25mm.

Might try F:100 R:115 on next ride.
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Why do you run them so high?
 
Saundie said:
I can cope with replacing the chain. Is it going to cause problems with the chain rings?
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Not if you look after it.
Swapping wheels around wont cause any extra wear, it just means there are more knock-on effects if you dont replace parts when they wear.

Normally, you have 1 chain, 1 cassette and 1 set of chainrings on a bike. If any of these parts are worn, they will accelerate wear on all the other parts.

When you start swapping wheels around, you then have (at least) 2 chains, 2 cassettes and 2 sets of chainrings which are all used together. So if any one of these parts is worn out, it can have a knock-on effect on all of the other parts.

It's not a big problem, just replace the parts as required the same as you would do for a single bike with a single wheelset. Most people i know run a training wheelset for club rides/chaingangs/etc and have another set of race wheels. I dont think anybody swaps chains with wheels. (Although quite a few people swap break pads with wheels - obviously you need to if you have one set of metal braking surfaces and one set of carbon - but also for 2 sets of metal surfaces, some people keep 1 set of pads for 1 set of wheels)
 
Bought a new Ti frame and carbon fork today. Going to transfer bits from my carbon frame to it starting tonight. The only part I'm not comfortable with is cutting the carbon steerer as I've not done that before. Any tips?
 
VeNT said:
Done some maths, I've cycled over 3500 miles to and from work, that's approx 10 tanks of petrol. That's about £650 at current prices. I paid less than that for my bike (700£ in cyclescheme so approx 550 after all)
I've also lost load of weight, had fun and feel better!
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nice :)
don't forget car tax oh and insurance, the rest is normal wear and tear..
 
R0B75 said:
Bought a new Ti frame and carbon fork today. Going to transfer bits from my carbon frame to it starting tonight. The only part I'm not comfortable with is cutting the carbon steerer as I've not done that before. Any tips?
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what did you get?
 
R0B75 said:
The only part I'm not comfortable with is cutting the carbon steerer as I've not done that before. Any tips?
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I would get a bike shop to do it.
I'll happily cut metal steerers with a pipe-cutter but i wouldnt cut a carbon steerer. I'd be too worried about cutting it squint or fraying the weave.
A normal hacksaw will go through carbon fine, so you could give it a go if you want to. Wear a mask though - carbon dust isnt nice.
 
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