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My old '59 Karmann Ghia was lowered a bit....
Lowering - Why??
- Thread starter scousegit
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Caporegime
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There are a lot of factors to consider when lowering as well to not ruin the ride. OEM are made as a compromise between comfort and sport (When talking about sportier cars) so I do agree there is room for improvement but it does need to be done right with the right setup.
FWD cars that are lowered with rear beams forget adjustable panhard rods so they shift the entire beam to one side a couple of cm (Hello crabbing). Cars that use macpherson struts that are too low causing the cars to tram line Etc. This is one of the major advantages of fully independent suspension/Revo/superstrut/hiperstrut as they can gain the benefits of lowering without the disadvantages associated with other means of suspension.
FWD cars that are lowered with rear beams forget adjustable panhard rods so they shift the entire beam to one side a couple of cm (Hello crabbing). Cars that use macpherson struts that are too low causing the cars to tram line Etc. This is one of the major advantages of fully independent suspension/Revo/superstrut/hiperstrut as they can gain the benefits of lowering without the disadvantages associated with other means of suspension.
Doing it in conjunction with a complete rebush?
When I did my BMW (1994 E36 M3) every joint was worn out, 13 at the rear alone, and obviously dampers and top mounts too. your car is only 5 years younger than mine
I had the new springs/dampers delivered for my Golf, its on its second full suspension rebuild. it has just clicked over 213k
Doing it in conjunction with a complete rebush?
When I did my BMW (1994 E36 M3) every joint was worn out, 13 at the rear alone, and obviously dampers and top mounts too. your car is only 5 years younger than mine
I had the new springs/dampers delivered for my Golf, its on its second full suspension rebuild. it has just clicked over 213k
I have to drop the subframe to weld a tear that's appeared, and may as well pop the reinforcement kit in as well. I shall be replacing all knackered bushes as well yes.
It might be an expensive job for an older motor even considering most of the work will be done by myself or friends, but buying a newer model there is no guarantee of not needing to do the same at some point anyway unless I spend a surprising amount of money on a good example.
The Subaru looks good and I can understand lowering this if wanting to do so, but with the Bentley what was the need if your probably driving it around the city most of the time anyway.
Don't get me wrong it doesn't look bad but I can't understand the need or want to do so to a car of this nature.
You've kind of answered your own question there, the reason why I lowered the Bentley is because I wanted it to look better. Original ride height had a good couple of inches of gap between the arch and the top of the wheel.
I once lowered my previous car. It looked good, handled great. Only problem was that the rear spring rates were softer then the OEM. Anyone who sat in the back caused the back to drop more lower. They were a good set of springs too. I didn't bother lowering after that.
I lowered my M3 because i didnt beleive the springs on it were actual M3 springs
New M3 springs would have cost a bomb, second hand M3 springs would be 20 years old, so i put some EIbach Pros on some Koni adjustbale dampers and have been winning ever since
New M3 springs would have cost a bomb, second hand M3 springs would be 20 years old, so i put some EIbach Pros on some Koni adjustbale dampers and have been winning ever since
I want to lower my mondeo, I dislike arch gap. Problem is, the ride is crashy as it is on the 18", lowering it will make it even more so. I'm tempted, but since it's on 134k with no suspension replacement history, I rather not bother.
Ive known lots of cars where replacing worn out suspension with new but upgraded stuff actually improves the ride
Get a progressive spring (most Eibach Pros are progressive) and youve got a good chance of having a better than standard ride
Why on earth would you want to make a Bentley more uncomfortable?
Why would lowering a CGT affect how comfortable it is?
I don't see why you would change the damping rate or suspension pressure (and therefore "firmness"), all that he's done is dialled in a lower ride height into the suspension control unit so that it sits lower?
Edit: I see what you are getting at, but that's not how an active suspension car is lowered, to lower an active suspension car you usually either edit a ride height sensor setting, or attach a piggyback lowering module to the suspension ECU which tricks the ride height sensors. It doesn't affect ride quality as the suspension pressure is maintained....
Edit: I see what you are getting at, but that's not how an active suspension car is lowered, to lower an active suspension car you usually either edit a ride height sensor setting, or attach a piggyback lowering module to the suspension ECU which tricks the ride height sensors. It doesn't affect ride quality as the suspension pressure is maintained....
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I've not changed any of the suspension components.
For a start this thread seems to be more about the pasttime of "slamming" than lowering.
Secondly, Anyone foolish enough to think that a manufacturer can create a mass produced car at the ideal setup and sell it to everyone with no room for improvement, whether that be handling or power or otherwise, clearly is not at home on a forum designed for overclocking computer hardware.
Secondly, Anyone foolish enough to think that a manufacturer can create a mass produced car at the ideal setup and sell it to everyone with no room for improvement, whether that be handling or power or otherwise, clearly is not at home on a forum designed for overclocking computer hardware.
How did you lower it? Coil overs as standard or some fancy height levelling suspension?