Stud wall

[WillyNelson]

Sweet! I'll keep an eye out.

 

[WillyNelson]

Another question that sprung up. The stud adjacent to the front door partially covers the old lounge light switch. I've removed the switch but I'm left with the box partially exposed. What's the best way to fill this in before its skimmed over?

 

[john_s]

Another question that sprung up. The stud adjacent to the front door partially covers the old lounge light switch. I've removed the switch but I'm left with the box partially exposed. What's the best way to fill this in before its skimmed over?

You often see an offcut of plasterboard used.

 

[WillyNelson]

I was thinking maybe pack it out with a bit of wood behind, then gripfill in a square of plasterboard and tape over it with jointing tape.

 

[Adam]

Are you going to put the stud wall up to block up everything from the left of the door on the right hand side? Where will the door go?

This is very similar to what I want to do in my new house but it involves moving the stairs.

 

[Cosmic182]

Why on earth didnt you use 4x2? you wouldnt have had any problems with your casing then as 4x2 regularised finishes under 4. Betime youve got your plasterboard on and skim it works perfect followed by architrave. For a wall that size too I'd of deff used 4x2. Plus you only need 9.5mm plasterboards, use the 4x3 handi boards, or 6x3, set your studs/noggins out for them and its much easier to cut and board.

 

[WillyNelson]

Are you going to put the stud wall up to block up everything from the left of the door on the right hand side? Where will the door go?

The wall runs from the inner front door to the foot of the stairs and then encases the stairs, then a small stub wall comes out between the dining room & lounge leaving a 60" doorway between the two. Living room door to hall will be where you se ethe 5 dark stained boards (where is would have been originally) and the dining room door to hall is adjacent to the foot of the stairs.

It's essentially your typical 2up2down terrace with the lounge/dining room knocked through, only someone ripped out the hall wall as well. That's not ideal for us so we're reinstating the hall wall.

Why on earth didnt you use 4x2? you wouldnt have had any problems with your casing then as 4x2 regularised finishes under 4. Betime youve got your plasterboard on and skim it works perfect followed by architrave. For a wall that size too I'd of deff used 4x2. Plus you only need 9.5mm plasterboards, use the 4x3 handi boards, or 6x3, set your studs/noggins out for them and its much easier to cut and board.

The narrowness of the hall was a consideration so I'm trying to keep the wall as thin as possible without being flimsy. 63mm framing at 400mm centres and 12.5mm drywall, filled with rockwool should give me a sturdy, well insulated wall (for sound and heat) and be under 95mm thick.

 

[WillyNelson]

Didn't get much done yesterday as I had a funeral to go to, so got stuck in today and got the hall wall frame up completely.

Dividing wall and door frames tomorrow, plus the sparky is coming back and I need to go buy some insulation.

 

[Mark A]

Looking good. Looks like you might have ordered a bit too much timber?

One thing i'll add that i dont think has been mentioned. When you come to put the plasterboard on, make sure you don't have any joins above the doorways, as these will crack over time.

Been doing some studding out today, makes a nice change from second fix work.

 

[Nightglow]

One tip fix some skirting blocks to the bottom plate, between the studs, it will give a bit more fixing area for a deep skirting.

 

[WillyNelson]

Looking good. Looks like you might have ordered a bit too much timber?

One thing i'll add that i dont think has been mentioned. When you come to put the plasterboard on, make sure you don't have any joins above the doorways, as these will crack.

Yup, I've planned to board like that.

And I've only got 4 lengths left of the 40 and I'll probably use at least one finishing the framing for the under stairs cupboard. The rest will become a new workbench for my shed.

One tip fix some skirting blocks to the bottom plate, between the studs, it will give a bit more fixing area for a deep skirting.

Already fitted them, an extra noggin on top of the floor plate in each section.

Framing nearly all done. I've replaced the old studs by the kitchen door this evening. Didn't get round to doing the door casings, which is a pain.

 

[WillyNelson]

Framing got finished Saturday morning and the plasterboard was delivered. The 8x4 fireboards were unexpectedly heavy! I couldn't board on Saturday as my wife was out for the day so I had a day out with my daughter.

Sunday my dad came over to give me a hand. Fireboards on the living/dining room side of the hall wall, cavity filled with rockwool and the hall side in standard wallboard. Finished about 8:30 last night with the majority done. Just a few infill bits to do, which I'll be able to do on my own, and all the screw heads to check for depth. Then I need to fit the casing for the built in bookcase in the reverse of the stub wall.

View from the front door

I did over order on the wallboards - I've got 5 left of the 9! Plasterer coming round tonight to check it out & give us a quote for the finishing skim coat. I'll need to ask him whether he wants me to fit the door casing before or after he skims.

 

[tigerstyle]

Not being rude, but why?
Looks a bit claustrophobic around the back there?

 

[Mark A]

Is that a join I see above the doorway?

It'll be better to put the casings on so that the plasterer can skim up to them.

 

[WillyNelson]

Not being rude, but why?
Looks a bit claustrophobic around the back there?

Mostly for heat & sound insulation. With it open plan both just travelled straight up the stairs. But also to put back some of the original character which was lost in one large room.

Our neighbours' houses are a mix of completely original and various conversions and we've been in them all to look and compare. The hall is a little narrow which is accentuated by the 2.5m ceiling height, but with some careful decorating it should look fine.

Is that a join I see above the doorway?

It'll be better to put the casings on so that the plasterer can skim up to them.

Shouldn't be, no. Both doorways are single boards. I've not done above the double doorway yet so you can still see the studs there. That bit might have to be a couple of smaller pieces but as its a double stud there, it that bit moves it means the whole house is coming down!

 

[Participant]

Is that a join I see above the doorway?

It won't crack if it's taped properly, surely?

 

[Mark A]

It won't crack if it's taped properly, surely?

The tape only strengthens the skim, its nowhere near as strong as the 12.5mm plasterboard. It only takes a bit of movement for cracks to appear and the area at the top corners of a door way get a lot of movement, especially in a 3x2 partition.

It might be fine, but we were taught to never put a join above a doorway, so thought i'd mention it.

 

[WillyNelson]

Mark, it seems I misread your original post about boarding above doorways. I've done it as in the pic you posted, though looking closely it does say 'bad joint location'. Ah well, you live & learn.

Should be ok though. The lounge door will be closed nearly all the time and the dining room door will mostly be open all the time.

 

[WillyNelson]

Plasterer was round at the end of last week. It should be fully dry by now so I'm hoping to get the first coat on before the weekend.

And the hallway, looking less claustrophobic now, hopefully. The massive rad is being replaced by a much smaller, slimmer one.

Some handcut rebates for the 60" door casing (I was quite proud of these, despite them being a quite simple)

 

[Nedved11]

I'd wait a bit longer before painting. There is still a lot of moisture in them walls even if it looks pink and dry. Also as you probably know mist coat it before top coat.