Agreed, but over what period of time are the subsequent problems likely to manifest? I've never kept a bike more than 3 years and doubt that the current one will be an exception.
What did you do to your bike today?
- Thread starter edd1e
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Agreed, but over what period of time are the subsequent problems likely to manifest? I've never kept a bike more than 3 years and doubt that the current one will be an exception.
I disagree. The transmitter would get hot if it is constantly transmitting and as it is only designed to be on for a second it probably won't have the necessary heat dissipation and could over heat. However as you say yours doesn't keep transmitting and they're only £6. You could have used the hazards switch if you have one though...
I wondered this as well. Provided that everything gets up to temp then there will be no water?
ive often started mine up after weeks layup,in winter you can see the steam/moisture coming off the engine
if you are charging up the battery though I would always disconnect the leads from the bike/battery,pretty sure I burnt out or damaged a relay not doing that,so now I always make sure I disconnect it,then attach the charger leads
if you are charging up the battery though I would always disconnect the leads from the bike/battery,pretty sure I burnt out or damaged a relay not doing that,so now I always make sure I disconnect it,then attach the charger leads
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Caporegime
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I doubt that. Even if it did it, would take a very long time to kill it from heat given the miniscule current they draw, and they cost nothing. But yeah, mine just blips and then stops.
I have a hazards switch, but why would I use that? I don't want to be using my hazards when I driving down my road towards my garage?! Besides it's an on / off switch whereas the pass switch is momentary, much easier as you don't have to toggle it on then off.
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new pair of throttle cables fitted. got it all back together and went for a test ride, about 20 minutes in when something hit my foot on the dual carriage way i realized i forgot to tighten up the bolt on the right crash bung >.<
im gonna guess R&G arnt going to be willing to sell just the plastic the bolt an the washer.
im gonna guess R&G arnt going to be willing to sell just the plastic the bolt an the washer.
just the plastic bung an the bolt. and no i'm not going down the a55 looking for it lol.
was dark anyway, and the bolt an the bung would have definitely gone separate ways.
on mine its a cut hole through fairing opne so the mounting is all stil lthere (it goes through the engine on the vfr).
might just see if i can measure up the bolt from the toher side (they're identical) and just use a generic bung.
Copied and pasted as its a a better explanation than I can manage!
Every gallon of petrol burns to a gallon of water plus CO2. Run an engine for five minutes and the water generated will condense into the exhaust system along with a fair amount of acidic products of combustion. The remaining water will have blown past the piston rings and settled into the engine oils. Shut off After 5 or 10 minutes and the engine it still too cold to have evaporated that water.
We all know that most engine wear happens on a cold starts - no oil until the pump is turning so bearings run dry for a few turns. Simply starting it for a few minutes each week = 100% wear with 0% use.
Tickover speed is toxic especially to cold engines. The moving parts are not spinning fast enough to smooth out the competing loads causing excessive wear. Many bikes run fast on cold start tickover.
Really big engines have jacking oil pumps to feed the bearings for starting.
Don't leave the bike on tickover while getting dressed. Start the engine and ride away.
Avoid short runs where it never gets properly warmed up.
Don't leave it ticking over for long periods even when warm.
Soldato
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Broke the key off in the petrol cap.
Doh!
Luckily I was closeish to home, got my dad to nip out in the car with my spare key -realised after that both keys (originals) were twisted because they don't go in very far in the petrol cap, anyway - got 2 new keys cut at a timpsons, luckily my bike hasn't got HISS or else I'd have to get them programmed. The weekend's job will be to fish out the remaining bit of key out the filler cap. The new keys slot in so smoothly, like a well lubed thing into a hole
Also I'm due a trip to halfords this week to amass the parts needed to wire in a relay to add some heated grips, a 12v socket and spare connectors for another thing I might add at a later date.
Doh!
Luckily I was closeish to home, got my dad to nip out in the car with my spare key -realised after that both keys (originals) were twisted because they don't go in very far in the petrol cap, anyway - got 2 new keys cut at a timpsons, luckily my bike hasn't got HISS or else I'd have to get them programmed. The weekend's job will be to fish out the remaining bit of key out the filler cap. The new keys slot in so smoothly, like a well lubed thing into a hole
Also I'm due a trip to halfords this week to amass the parts needed to wire in a relay to add some heated grips, a 12v socket and spare connectors for another thing I might add at a later date.
Ooo heated grips,could've done with those few days ago
@ sagalout Yh according to that it makes sense I suppose,I only start mine if its been layed up (almost 2 years at one point) or if I've just washed it
I just don't really worry about it,jap engines are pretty tough anyway,thrash mine all the time since new and its still sweet and whistles
@ sagalout Yh according to that it makes sense I suppose,I only start mine if its been layed up (almost 2 years at one point) or if I've just washed it
I just don't really worry about it,jap engines are pretty tough anyway,thrash mine all the time since new and its still sweet and whistles
Soldato
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Yeah I've got muffs which are great down to about 3-4 degrees, but below that the air temperature is too cold for summer gloves. On my ride to pick up the bike my hands were numb as it was only a degree or 2 above freezing - I'd always said I'd get heated grips fitted when I found a keeper bike, and I reckon I'll be keeping the little CB400 for a while, it makes so much sense as a fun runaround/commuter bike. £98 a year insurance, 50mpg without even trying.
Need to book it in for an allyearbiker ACF-50 treatment too, it's filthy already with all the crap on the roads. The one in Folkestone has everyday available on the website so I might give him an email/call tomorrow to see what's up.
Need to book it in for an allyearbiker ACF-50 treatment too, it's filthy already with all the crap on the roads. The one in Folkestone has everyday available on the website so I might give him an email/call tomorrow to see what's up.
It depends on how often you do it and for how long.
It used to be that certain bikes didn't take well to sitting on tick over regularly on their side stands as it led to uneven wear on the cams due to lack of oil to one side.
I just make sure when the weather is good and the roads are dry I take the bike out for a 10 mile or so spin.
The Tiger is pretty good, it's normal operating temperature is only a couple of degrees lower than than a supernova, so it's up to full operating temp within a minute virtually, so it doesn't need that long a run out
A spoke to a guy a couple of months ago who had his and wife's bikes in his industrial unit, I raised it in conversation as an icebreaker as I was prospecting at the time and he said he had them in there because the winter before both bike had had their wiring looms eaten by mice in his garage.
I don't think you can ever get away with just locking them up over winter and turning it over every now and again.
Soldato
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My chain oiler has come today along with my new mirrors so that's another job for the weekend 
I went for the loobman oiler, worth a punt at £20 vs the £60 for the Tuturo oiler and £80-odd for the scottoiler. You press a button which dispenses oil into the feed pipe which then gradually gets dispersed onto your chain as you ride. In the wet, press the button more frequently, in the dry in summer less often. Simple concept thought up by a London bike courier.
I went for the loobman oiler, worth a punt at £20 vs the £60 for the Tuturo oiler and £80-odd for the scottoiler. You press a button which dispenses oil into the feed pipe which then gradually gets dispersed onto your chain as you ride. In the wet, press the button more frequently, in the dry in summer less often. Simple concept thought up by a London bike courier.
My chain oiler has come today along with my new mirrors so that's another job for the weekend
I went for the loobman oiler, worth a punt at £20 vs the £60 for the Tuturo oiler and £80-odd for the scottoiler. You press a button which dispenses oil into the feed pipe which then gradually gets dispersed onto your chain as you ride. In the wet, press the button more frequently, in the dry in summer less often. Simple concept thought up by a London bike courier.
Let us know how it works out. For £20 it could either be undercutting the market or a cheap piece of crap