After taking my battery it's now reading 0.18 ohms and seems to be producing better vapour already so, maybe it's the VS that was the problem? Whatever it is I won't be buying any more, I much prefer my own nickel builds over this.
Nice honest SX Mini review, given me something to think about...I really like the look of it but I also like the look of the Vapor Flask.Maybe I should concentrate on making my own mod before buying anything else.
If you let the mod and coil cool down to room temperature, fire the mod a few times without the atty on it, so when you screw the atty on, it asks you if it's a new coil, say yes to new coil. and it should work a lot better. The connections needs to be good/clean for it to read correctly.
temp control on the dna has been hit or miss for me, it works on the resistance of the coil, it reads it at room temperature then 'knows' what the resistance of the coil should be at certain temperatures as nickel is predictable with resistance against temperature. Certain atties are just pants with nickel depending on how they been designed. Your best atties are the ones that the positive pins connect directly to the 510 pin, atties with separate parts and made from different material are pants due to heat transfer rates.
There's a new vaporflask coming out, it's out in other parts of the world. I don't really know what the difference is, but my next mod will be a dual battery mod, so either the hana v4d or a flask.

Set your required watts to each of the memory modes on the device then no need to go into the menus and tilt the device.
I never go into the menu settings on my sx350 mini at all now
Also found out that on a future firmware update on the s class & m class the logo on the fire button has an led behind it and it will light up
Cheers all
Thanks buddy, I'm sure I will get used to the workings of it.. it just seems a bit odd at the moment.