***The Vapers Lounge*** 2.0

Status
Not open for further replies.
So, Triton turned up.

I stuck the 0.4 ohm coil in there, filled it up and let her rip. Currently vaping at 50W with pretty amazing vapour production for a pre-built coil tank. Flavour is OK too.

Observations:

RBA section is too small to get a ni200 build inside. Interesting design though and I'm keen to put a build in there. At work at the moment and don't have my coiling gear with me so this will have to wait until I get home.

Tank is too small. At 50W I burned through a tank of juice in 5 minutes. Definitely need to take spare juice with you if this is your all day tank.

Ratings on the coils are odd. The 0.4 ohm coil is rated at 25 - 30W but at these settings they produce hardly any vapour and no flavour. It starts to get good at 40W and at the moment 50W seems to be my sweet spot. I'll crank it up further once the coil is bedded in.

God knows how you are supposed to clean this tank. There is absolutely no way to get inside it...

Airflow control on the driptip base is interesting but I doubt I'll use it.


Triton works so much better with the Atlantis 2 coils, especially the 0.3ohm version. I think it was pbusardo who said they are using Stainless Steel rather than Kanthal for their Triton tanks, I suppose that could be the reason for difference in taste/performance.
 
So, Triton turned up.

I stuck the 0.4 ohm coil in there, filled it up and let her rip. Currently vaping at 50W with pretty amazing vapour production for a pre-built coil tank. Flavour is OK too.

Observations:

RBA section is too small to get a ni200 build inside. Interesting design though and I'm keen to put a build in there. At work at the moment and don't have my coiling gear with me so this will have to wait until I get home.

Tank is too small. At 50W I burned through a tank of juice in 5 minutes. Definitely need to take spare juice with you if this is your all day tank.

Ratings on the coils are odd. The 0.4 ohm coil is rated at 25 - 30W but at these settings they produce hardly any vapour and no flavour. It starts to get good at 40W and at the moment 50W seems to be my sweet spot. I'll crank it up further once the coil is bedded in.

God knows how you are supposed to clean this tank. There is absolutely no way to get inside it...

Airflow control on the driptip base is interesting but I doubt I'll use it.

Thought it all unscrewed?
 
I'm waiting for the ipv d2 which is due this week, supports nickel and titanium, 75w/50J and uses a chip I know I'll get on with :)

Becoming quite a fan of tc, pushing as build to its absolute limit without being worried about a rancid dry hit :D

Ah yeah, i did notice that one too but it looked a bit boring and plastic-y to me. Don't most TC devices support both titanium and nickel? But i understand the chip thing, i think Sigelei and the IPV series are pretty reputable when it comes to box mods!
 
Triton works so much better with the Atlantis 2 coils, especially the 0.3ohm version. I think it was pbusardo who said they are using Stainless Steel rather than Kanthal for their Triton tanks, I suppose that could be the reason for difference in taste/performance.

I thought people were preferring the Triton coils over the Atlantis ones. I've seen people putting the 0.4 ohm Tritons in to the Atlantis 2 anyway.

Thought it all unscrewed?

If it does I can't see how.
 
I heard the istick 30 button can be annoying and rattle loud. Is this still true or did they fix it and whats the chances i get a non rattling one?
 
I've not noticed mine rattling and I have 2 of them. Maybe I'm just immune because people complain about the buttons on the SX-Mini rattling too but I never notice it.
 
Just browing through my local Vape group on Facebook and spotted natural selection at work, someone running a Mutation X on a Limitless mech with a 0.08 ohm dual coil on it
 
Still playing around with the istick 40w TC. Thanks to those who shared videos of builds etc.

Just to help me understand this device further;

Should you lock in the resistance of the coil (at room temperature) whilst the wick is saturated? (in a tank in my case) or after you have just wicked it pre-juice?

Also the device uses what it deems necessary to reach your temperature limit? Then fluctuates the wattage automatically to keep the coil around the desired temp limit reading? Or am I misunderstanding something?

It is a very different vape and still unsure.
 
Should you lock in the resistance of the coil (at room temperature) whilst the wick is saturated? (in a tank in my case) or after you have just wicked it pre-juice?

Either. As long as both the tank and the device are at the same temperature.

Also the device uses what it deems necessary to reach your temperature limit? Then fluctuates the wattage automatically to keep the coil around the desired temp limit reading? Or am I misunderstanding something?

Correct. It will apply whatever power it deems necessary to reach and maintain the temperature you set.
 
Many thanks for the speedy response!

Now to just find a build I like. Currently run runs hot. Which is weird, because it is quite hot regardless of what temperature I set it. Weird I know. Might be because I am using 3mm diameter coils instead of my usual 2.5mm.
 
When I build a new Ni200 coil, I leave the device off the mod for 10 minutes in the same room so they can both balance at room temp, then connect up and select new coil... never had any troubles that way on the DNA40 chip, eventually the DNA will take a new reading itself to correct any miss match if left for more than 15 minutes or an hour?
The TC chip in the Dovpo will reset just by swapping the battery over and if the coil has gotten warmer than the mod, it will sync higher ohms and throw the TC right out the window, for example, twice now ive been vaping the Dvopo, noticed the battery was weak so swapped it, was not asked if the coil was new, it just assumed it was the same and my ohms reading went from .15 to .19 and first hit was much warmer and dry... however, left to sit and turn itself off, and cool, it will re set and re sync again... one to look out for...
 
Thanks! Am I right in saying these chips do not actually measure the temperature? They just use a complex algorithm to determine how hot the coil should be?
 
I guess watermelon and methol was what I used before and enjoyed. Which is a good brand to go for ?
Merlin from Vaping King is the stuff that you require :)

Cheers all

That would indeed be a good place to start. :)

God knows how you are supposed to clean this tank. There is absolutely no way to get inside it...

You can't, all the reviews said the same, is what put me off it in the first place...
 
Thanks! Am I right in saying these chips do not actually measure the temperature? They just use a complex algorithm to determine how hot the coil should be?

Correct. Nickel has a very predictable change in impedance with temperature. So, by measuring the current resistance and comparing it with the room temperature resistance, it can calculate what the temperature of the coil is.

At the end of the day it's actually an estimation. I prefer to refer to the temperature units as Doohickies as that has about as much relationship to the actual temperature of the coil as the F or C units do.

It's not comparable between devices or coils either.

My SX-Mini with a self-built coil is good at 190C
The same coil on my iStick 40W is good at 300C
On my VT40 it's good at 210C

Info about the coefficient of resistance here: http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/textbook/direct-current/chpt-12/temperature-coefficient-resistance/
 
my istick 50w just started auto-fired...

I've tried blasting it with contact cleaner but it started again.
so I've quicking took it apart.

IMG_1503.jpg


and sprayed directly onto and around the switch.

seems ok at the moment. I've been using the goblin mini exclusively on it since friday, so draw whatever conclusions you wish. :)
 
my istick 50w just started auto-fired...

I've tried blasting it with contact cleaner but it started again.
so I've quicking took it apart.

and sprayed directly onto and around the switch.

seems ok at the moment. I've been using the goblin mini exclusively on it since friday, so draw whatever conclusions you wish. :)

was it relatively easy to take apart? mines auto firing want to try and get it working again.

EDIT: Nvm it was easy as pie
 
Last edited:
My I-stick 50w was flawless until it started to auto fire whilst unattended , was outside in the garden & came back to find my Lemo 2 had a broken glass tank from the heat , e-liquid all over the place & I-Stick was still firing.
For me this is unacceptable & i chucked I-Stick , over temperature must be faulty , if i cannot trust it then will not use it.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom