Road Cycling

Yup channel in the middle, can see it here:
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And just for the lols:
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Wheel hanging from pedal. I'm still finding it on various parts of my bike you wouldn't think it would reach (front lower part of brake levers & head unit) haha!
 
lordrobs said:
I managed to find the Nitecore for just over £70, RRP is £120. It seems to be a well reviewed light so I'm happy enough it will do the job. The bigger issue is whether DX will actually get it to me :p

I just prefer the physical design on the Ravemen (diffused 'dipped' beam vs a heavily angled non diffused one) and DX price aside it is £20 less than the Nitecore.
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Well, it did turn up and much quicker than expected. I've just been a bit lazy actually getting out to use it :o Anyway, I've done a couple of rides with it now and I can say I'm very happy with my purchase!

First ride was in a real thick mist. The type where you get back from a ride and everything is soaked despite it not actually raining. Second ride was slightly misty but what I'd expect for this time of year. In road mode (toggles between dipped and main beam with the remote) I only need it on level 2 in the pitch black. Ideally I'd like a setting between 2 and 3 but TBH 2 is fine. 4 is mega bright but doesn't really add any extra range, it just makes everything... bright :o

At first I wasn't sure of how much effect using the two beams had but after angling it down a bit I now have a perfect balance of range on main beam and not dazzling other road users on dipped.

It is hard to get a true picture of how it looks with just a budget phone but this gives you an idea. Bright enough on dipped that I'm not worried about people not seeing me, enough light on main that I don't have to slow down on the lanes.

Dipped


Main


Other than that the remote does the job well and the run time display is a nice touch.
 
cut as small as you can comfortably push the valve through, the valve will squish the tape around the hole and help ensure a decent seal.

edit: just seen the pictures, looks like you have a slit next to the valve?

I've always worked the tape down into the depression, I like it to actually be stuck down over the spoke holes rather than hovering over them, but a hundred people have a hundred methods
 
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I think I finished setting up my wheels for tubeless last night and it seemed way too easy - have I lucked out with a great tubeless rim / tyre combo? :confused:

Tyres are Hutchinson Fusion 5 Performance 11 Storm Tubeless Ready (who came up with that mouthful?!), rims are CCR/Venn carbon 50mm built by David at DCR Wheels. David had taped the rims and put the valves in.

I popped the tyres on the rims on Saturday afternoon and didn't even need tyre levers to get them on. Inflated with a track pump and left overnight. Both went down, so Sunday night I put 60ml of Hutchinson Sealant in the front (removed the valve core) and pumped back up to 100psi with my track pump. That was still hard last night, so I repeated with the rear and a quick check this morning showed that has stayed up as well. Will drop them down to ~80psi for a first test ride and see how they ride.

Aren't you meant to end up with bent tyre levers, knackered from loads of track pump action and latex coming out of your ears?

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Excuse the mark from a safety sticker on the left rim, need to finish cleaning it up properly.
 
#Chri5# said:
Aren't you meant to end up with bent tyre levers, knackered from loads of track pump action and latex coming out of your ears?
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there are two possible outcomes, this one, or what you experienced. There's no real markers as to which one you'll get. A mate of mine went to sealant-faced hell recently with brand new tyres on brand new rims, while I had a knackered old tyre from a bike jumble stay up first time on a dodgy old rim with a ding in it....
 
Saytan said:
cut as small as you can comfortably push the valve through, the valve will squish the tape around the hole and help ensure a decent seal.

edit: just seen the pictures, looks like you have a slit next to the valve?

I've always worked the tape down into the depression, I like it to actually be stuck down over the spoke holes rather than hovering over them, but a hundred people have a hundred methods
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Yeah slit next to valve, that was after the first time which may have been the hole not lined very centrally to the hole so the split has 'run'. The second time it was and I have no visible slit, it being very marginal to the edge of the valve 'bung'. That's why I was asking about other ways to cut the valve hole.

Regarding rim channel you have me thinking. Both the Stans video and the Zipp one applying rim tape just seem to stretch it into the rim, so on these particular rims it's stuck quite well on the bed 'edges' and over the centre channel (as per your image). I had properly pressed the edges down all the way around and had jammed a cloth in there as well to try and distribute the pressure all the way around. But it's still stuck over the centre and not stuck 'in' it. It's certainly held up the front doing that. Pumped it to 90psi too (before sealant) before dropping to 70psi for riding. I#'ll keep an eye on it. It doesn't seem to have lost any (or at least marginal) since doing it sunday. The rear with a tube fitted feels like it's lost more! :rolleyes:

I'll re-tape the rear (which I need to do anyway) working the tape into that channel rather than pulling it as tight against the edges. See if it adheres ok (or ripples up). Or do we think a thinner tape, as per Jonny's suggestion is the way to go?

Jonny ///M said:
Stans sell a narrow tape about 10mm or so that is meant to be used to build up that channel to make the actual tape sit properly.
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Would make sense, just no mention of it from Stans or Zipp in their instructions, unless you could point me somewhere else?

Actually saw a suggestion somewhere that you could tape the rim either side of the valve hole, without actually going over the valve hole, so woudn't need to cut one?! :o
 
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So why bother going tubeless?

Changing a tube takes 5 minutes once every 3-6 months.

Not running super low pressures like you would on a mtb.

....


New Sram etap 12 speed looks good. I want a cheaper Force version tho!
 
I want to go down to 40/50psi for winter. Running Specialized Roubaix Pro 25/28 last couple of winters they've been superb but can't drop them that low as not being tubeless/2bliss they burp air.

Conti GP4000sii 28mm have been good this summer, running 60/70psi, any lower than that they suffer the same air leakage so my plan to go with Gp4seasons 28mm (which I actually have the tyres for - anyone needing some, shout!) at anything lower I'm judging is a no-go.

Went these 30/32 as only the widest of Specialized Roubaix pro are '2bliss ready' (my old 25/28 and new 25/28 are not). Tubeless tyres for £29 (pre-club discount), making them as cheap as alternative tubed winter tyres. No other quality tubeless tyres come even near that price. With tubeless compatible rims I thought why not try it. All it's cost is tape + sealant as I'm prepared to run these with tubes if needs be! ;)

This 'current year' Roubaix Pro 30/32 tubeless tyre weighs only marginally more than the non-tubeless 25/28 Roubaix pro from 2015/16. Impressive! They're certainly not light, but if the previous are anything to go by - totally bombproof.
 
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Roady said:
Actually saw a suggestion somewhere that you could tape the rim either side of the valve hole, without actually going over the valve hole, so woudn't need to cut one?! :o
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That wont work for you if the tape isn't stuck against the spoke holes at the bottom of the channel. It's floating above so the air will escape past the ends of the tape and out the spoke holes.
Maybe try using Gorilla tape or something else as flexible? You'll be able to fold it down into the channel.

Also, different manufactures make different shaped shaped valve seats (or whatever the rubber bit is called). Might be worth trying some others to see if it works better with your rim.
 
Got some jagwire cgx sl stuff earlier and the normal sized caps don't fit over it. What sort do I need? Just the ones that'd normally go over brake outers?
 
touch said:
That wont work for you if the tape isn't stuck against the spoke holes at the bottom of the channel. It's floating above so the air will escape past the ends of the tape and out the spoke holes.
Maybe try using Gorilla tape or something else as flexible? You'll be able to fold it down into the channel.

Also, different manufactures make different shaped shaped valve seats (or whatever the rubber bit is called). Might be worth trying some others to see if it works better with your rim.
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Had heard of Gorilla tape mentioned but when I googled the specific Gorilla rim tape it seemed to only come in 25mm width, far too wide for road! I do understand about the 'channel' issue I'm seeing so wasn't particularly thinking of the exposed valve thing as a solution with my rims taped like this. I hadn't seen/heard of it but admit I've not done my usual completely over reading/researching of different ways to tape rims. Assumed there was only 1 way! Haha :)

The valves I'm using are the specific Zipp valves which came with the wheels, the valve seat/bung/seal bit fits perfectly into the channel on the wheels, which is probably also why my rim tape X over the channel has been split by the valve.

For my problem I think I've got 2 solutions - 1. Retape with the current tape I have, aiming to get the tape into the channel, rather than across the top of it. If the tape won't seal like that onto option 2. Seal channel with narrower tape of some kind either the Stans specific Jonny mentioned, or some gorilla tape.

The fact my front has stayed up for ~16 miles of commuting (including chariot duties yesterday) and barely lost any pressure I think the tape I've used has sealed well enough. Hopeful the rear will be equally as well sealed.

SoliD said:
Got some jagwire cgx sl stuff earlier and the normal sized caps don't fit over it. What sort do I need? Just the ones that'd normally go over brake outers?
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It's listed as having a 5mm outside diameter, isn't it also only for brakes? As 'standard' brake outer caps are 6mm it should fit.

https://jagwire.com/guides/housing

Scroll down to 'sport' then under 'coiled steel lubricated' on jags site lists the CGX-SL as brake and the LEX-SL for shifting?
 
Not long been back from a great day out at the Boardman Performance Centre. Picked up a new toy, and spent an hour or so in their wind tunnel. Pretty fascinating to see how some apparently trivial adjustments can make some noticeable differences to drag.

Although I have the bike, I don't get all the data and videos/images until Friday. I'll do a little post if anyone's interested :)
 
@Shadowness - Yes, please do a write up! chuck it in the thread Roady said, there's a few aero geeks on here who will be jealous of you!

Bear said:
I see the Conti GP4000S II have been discontinued and have been replaced with the GP5000 which comes in normal tube and also tubeless https://cyclingtips.com/2018/11/continental-goes-tubeless-with-new-grand-prix-5000-road-tire/
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Seen this yesterday. Finally they have a tubeless tyre.... which I will never buy :)
A shame Vittoria tyres look 100000 times more sexy than Conti's. This was their chance to make their tyre look old school cool.
 
Ok. I'll probably just do a separate thread as there will probably be quite a lot of pics. Should get the data tomorrow, so I'll put something together soon
 
Bear said:
I see the Conti GP4000S II have been discontinued and have been replaced with the GP5000 which comes in normal tube and also tubeless https://cyclingtips.com/2018/11/continental-goes-tubeless-with-new-grand-prix-5000-road-tire/
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Interesting they've finally relented and gone tubeless, before I'm sure they where quoted as saying road tubeless was a 'marketing fad' so they where not going to get involved as didn't see the need. Seeing lots of their smaller competitors getting most of the market has obviously ground their gears as RTL has gained traction - especially as road riders seem happy to pay quite a price hike/premium... Which Conti have taken advantage of with those RRP's! Geez! :o

Would be good to see if it's a real evolution. Mitchelin tried with with their Pro4 Endurance range and seemed to totally shoot themselves in the foot initially with a price hike on the V2's, then rebranding them as 'Power'/'Performance' they still failed to get much of the market back they lost. Not even sure there's more than 1-2 of us here still riding them?

xdcx said:
This was their chance to make their tyre look old school cool.
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Nobody rides tan walls (and makes them look good) other than Shamrock.
 
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