Road Cycling

Soldato
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Can I ask why? The frame is said to be good, but the wheels poor? I have had advice elsewhere it's not a bad price for what it is and in very good condition (barely used).

Spending money on wheels is one of the best ways to upgrade a bike. Cheap wheels are heavy and can act like a sponge; they suck up road feel and made for a bad experience. Try this for a starter for 10.

https://www.merlincycles.com/shiman...liateMarketing&utm_campaign=phg-GB&source=PHG
https://www.merlincycles.com/fulcru...h-continental-ultrasport-ii-tyres-124700.html
 
Soldato
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Can I ask why? The frame is said to be good, but the wheels poor? I have had advice elsewhere it's not a bad price for what it is and in very good condition (barely used).

600 quid in second hand market buys you newer and better spec than that, I saw a Giant Defy 2 with disc brakes go for 500 the other day for instance.

The seller needs to drop the price loads before it’s a good buy, it may have been 1400 in 2014 but it halved in value shortly after they used it in the first year and has fallen further since!
 
Soldato
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10,646
It is a decent enough frame, arguable better than a £400 planet x frame.

I sold my Orbea Orca M30 at a year old in mint condition for £640 on ebay, retailed at £1500. That was full 11 speed 105 and slightly better wheels than the Felt.

If you buy it stick better tyres on and see how it goes.
 
Soldato
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600 quid in second hand market buys you newer and better spec than that, I saw a Giant Defy 2 with disc brakes go for 500 the other day for instance.

I get that, but I've had a lot of people say how risky buying second hand carbon bikes are due to possibilities of there being a small crack etc. As I know this person and they're not the sort to lie or muck you about, I feel that in itself adds some value as I have much better piece of mind and the bike probably has only got about 100 miles on it.

Spending money on wheels is one of the best ways to upgrade a bike. Cheap wheels are heavy and can act like a sponge; they suck up road feel and made for a bad experience. Try this for a starter for 10.

https://www.merlincycles.com/shiman...liateMarketing&utm_campaign=phg-GB&source=PHG
https://www.merlincycles.com/fulcru...h-continental-ultrasport-ii-tyres-124700.html

Thanks, even cheaper than I'd been looking.
 
Soldato
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Can I ask why? The frame is said to be good, but the wheels poor? I have had advice elsewhere it's not a bad price for what it is and in very good condition (barely used).
If you look at what's sold on eBay...

One in "excellent condition" didn't meet a reserve of £550 (only got to £360), and a frame, fork, seatpost & wheelset went for £225... Might help your friend reassess.

Personally I'd go for something with discs. Spending £500 on wheels and then wearing them out with rim brakes would grate.
 
Soldato
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Lorville - Hurston
Spending money on wheels is one of the best ways to upgrade a bike. Cheap wheels are heavy and can act like a sponge; they suck up road feel and made for a bad experience. Try this for a starter for 10.

https://www.merlincycles.com/shiman...liateMarketing&utm_campaign=phg-GB&source=PHG
https://www.merlincycles.com/fulcru...h-continental-ultrasport-ii-tyres-124700.html
It depends on what type of roads you ride on though. Many cycle routes take u on gravel paths for example
 
Soldato
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Personally I'd go for something with discs. Spending £500 on wheels and then wearing them out with rim brakes would grate.

in dry conditions rims are good for well over 10k miles. Even urban commuting in the wet (so lots of stopping, there's 20 sets of lights on my work run), and paranoid early replacement i'm getting 6-8k from a rim
 
Soldato
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in dry conditions rims are good for well over 10k miles. Even urban commuting in the wet (so lots of stopping, there's 20 sets of lights on my work run), and paranoid early replacement i'm getting 6-8k from a rim
I'm in the >ahem< "Clydesdale" category of cyclists, which might be why I wore out rims, but it was always rims that went first for me. Why choose to wear out rims at all?
 
Soldato
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I'm in the >ahem< "Clydesdale" category of cyclists, which might be why I wore out rims, but it was always rims that went first for me. Why choose to wear out rims at all?


not so long ago rims were £30 and an hours labour, with hubs going on essentially forever. Now the rim wears out and you throw the whole lot away. Progress?
 
Soldato
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Wait, what?
I've got a pair of cheapo Fulcrum 7's that have done over 20k miles and certainly nowhere near worn away rim wise! What on earth are you lads doing to wheels??? :o
 
Soldato
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Wait, what?
I've got a pair of cheapo Fulcrum 7's that have done over 20k miles and certainly nowhere near worn away rim wise! What on earth are you lads doing to wheels??? :o

10k is the absolute least i'd expect on a "long ride" bike and on a £500 wheelset that's still less than 5p a mile

not to forget that most leisure riders will get bored of their bike and buy a new one well before 10k
 
Soldato
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5,386
Wait, what?
I've got a pair of cheapo Fulcrum 7's that have done over 20k miles and certainly nowhere near worn away rim wise! What on earth are you lads doing to wheels??? :o
There's no traffic in Scotland and the surface is so poor you basically don't need to brake to stop :p

I don't think I've worn out any braking surfaces and that includes some rims that have done over 15k miles, can barely even notice any wear. One rim (Zonda rear) did crack though :(
 
Soldato
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Urgh. Had my first chain drop between the small chain ring and the shiny white frame. :eek::(

Weird because I never had the problem on my other TT bike.
I've got carbon damage on one of my bikes due to this even with the thin alloy chain guard on that was stuck to the frame. It chewed that right up and went into the Carbon, many thousand miles later though it seems to be fine. The clearance between frame and small chainring is often so small it can be hard to retrieve the chain.
 
Soldato
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There's no traffic in Scotland and the surface is so poor you basically don't need to brake to stop :p

I don't think I've worn out any braking surfaces and that includes some rims that have done over 15k miles, can barely even notice any wear. One rim (Zonda rear) did crack though :(

You are correct.
Well, you WERE, correct. The traffic this year from all the Dutch, German, Englishes is unbelievable. The NC500 is a pain in the ass!
:p
 
Soldato
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We've agreed on £500. So, just need some nice wheels for now :)

Congratulations. :)

I've had my input into the spec but happy to help here if needed. If you buy a groupset, we will need to know more details about yourself so we can advise the crank length and teeth + cassette spacing.
Remember, if you buy things yourself you will need tools to build it. Id recommend giving it to your local bike shop and let them do it in this instance.
 
Soldato
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This is still compatible with 5800/6800 shifters (and the 5800/6800 FDs) too right? I'd seen some anecdotes about a slightly different spacing but seems unlikely that makes it incompatible.
Yup. Well I'm running R8000 50/34 with ST685 shifters (Disc non series hydraulic, basically 5800/6800), 6800 FD & RD with no issue. Same chain rub from FD I've had all along! :rolleyes:

I've read reports that R7000 front derailleur is much easier to set up so there's no rub using more extreme gear combos, but I'm still on 5800. For the sake of £25ish, I will probably buy an R7000 front mech, as and when I replace the chainset.
Have heard the same with the R8000 FD, just have not picked one up to try. The 5800 & 6800 I've had have both been the same. I also have an 'issue' where the long pivot arm of the FD catches on my mudguard with the end of the cable if it's any length, the R7000/R8000 have a different mechanism which is a much shorter pivot so should solve my issue. They developed it as people had issues with them snagging rear wheels.

Happy to trust anything Brant Richards has given the nod to
Who!?

Has anyone ever used a stand like the Scorpion?

https://reviews.mtbr.com/review-scorpion-bike-stands

There's a few on the market, but I'm only interested if they can go in via the non-drive side.

The review above features a picture of just that...

ovmR3OJ.png

... but I can't understand quite how that work.

My bike has a Sram Rival22 drive train, and the cranks have a massive opening on the drive side and a much smaller hole on the non-drive side. Every way I can imagine it working results in some rubbing.
Gimmick. Work as a basic stand, possibly even just for display, but I can't comprehend as a workstand as certainly any road crankset with a hole rotates...

@Roady sorry to be confusing.

It was a BB30 converter that would work with PF30 frames too. I think the actual praxis bb for their cranks are different again.
Yup, as I found!

Can I ask why? The frame is said to be good, but the wheels poor? I have had advice elsewhere it's not a bad price for what it is and in very good condition (barely used).
So she wants 40-50% value for a bike 5-6 years old. As you can judge from the feedback here that's seeming quite a high asking, but you're right to be considering it as you know its 'provenance'. From what I can tell from pics it does look very tidy, low mileage and to have been well looked after. That has to be worth paying a little over 'market' value for.

I have a 2015 Giant Defy 1, alu frameset. Majority 5800 groupset (so 11 speed). Originally a £900 bike. Would be lucky to get £300-400 for it. More around 30-40% value. That's on a bike 5 years old, so not too dissimilar. To be fair, as I've upgraded cranks (from FSA gossamer the same as your Felt!), calipers to 105 (from 'Tektro') it could be worth a little more. Then again it's done 9.5k miles now, although 40-50% of that on the turbo trainer...

not so long ago rims were £30 and an hours labour, with hubs going on essentially forever. Now the rim wears out and you throw the whole lot away. Progress?
Don't get me started on bottom brackets! From spindles to cartridge bearings for easy changing, now they're not meant to be changed (lose warranty by doing so) and you're meant to change the whole BB. :rolleyes:

Sidenote: come across anywhere in the UK selling Zipp rims?

There's no traffic in Scotland and the surface is so poor you basically don't need to brake to stop :p

I don't think I've worn out any braking surfaces and that includes some rims that have done over 15k miles, can barely even notice any wear. One rim (Zonda rear) did crack though :(
Could be it - roads so heavy/poor in the UK you're more likely to replace a rim by breaking it, rather than wearing it out. Wet/gritty conditions obviously don't help, but we also don't generally have 10km descents with switchbacks...!

You are correct.
Well, you WERE, correct. The traffic this year from all the Dutch, German, Englishes is unbelievable. The NC500 is a pain in the ass!
:p
Perfect excuse to Scottishxit? :D

I can get the Diverge E5 Elite 2020 Model for a shade under £1,000. Thoughts?

I love my 2016 Carbon Comp. It's done everything. Equally I've changed BB, cranks and wheels on it. The later year models (like that 2020) will have better wheels and possibly BB. Mine has done 10k miles. But they're not a light bike, they are supremely comfortable though - mines running 32mm tubeless with loads of clearance under full guards. Weighs over 11kg the majority of the time, but still feels fast and I can keep with most club rides. I'd have to get a much faster rider (lighter & more powerful) to really benefit moving to a lighter & aero bike. But I am considering one for a 'summer' bike (when I can afford to/justify it). Until then the Diverge does everything.
 
Soldato
Joined
18 Feb 2006
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10,637
Yeah I’ve done the full carbon before and obviously a lot faster but living in Surrey a lot of my area and where I want to ride aren’t the best of roads or paths. It is ‘only’ Tiagra but the 2019 model has Mech Brakes and this has the Hydraulics. Plus being a Specialized frame I can always upgrade a long the way if necessary. Probably better deals available on small brands but having always rode Specialized mountain bikes I still like them for road! Plus the extra weight on the bike isn’t a huge issue, not out there setting any KOM’s!

Doubt I’d pay the £1300 retail but for under the £1000 mark it’s quite tempting!

Edit: sod it, gone for it!
 
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