I've got similar/maybe worse on my Cube and I've rode it a good 15k miles since that chainsuck incident. I've not actually bothered to try and patch it up. The chain ripped up the crappy tin can protector that was glued to the frame.
Road Cycling
- Thread starter FrenchTart
- Start date
I've got similar/maybe worse on my Cube and I've rode it a good 15k miles since that chainsuck incident. I've not actually bothered to try and patch it up. The chain ripped up the crappy tin can protector that was glued to the frame.
Makes sense they'd build the carbon up around the lugs for a smooth finish. I expect my Specialized is the same - post mounts for the calipers are quite chunky, although nice and smooth.Hah yea, the photo makes it look huge but it's around 5mm long. A rotor bolt came loose and inevitably sliced into the lug.
I can't say for other manufacturers but the lugs/caliper support on Giant frames are alloy with carbon molding surround.
What colour did the epoxy dry? Black/grey/clear? It would be good to fill the 'holes' on mine, but equally due to my frame colour getting paint to match up off the shelf would be next to impossible.
Yeah I've seen those protectors and thought they wouldn't stop much. Most seem to be directly 'behind' the crankset (not where my chain caught)!
Soldato
It dried clear/white. But being black it was an easy paint match although the area I fixed is unseen so it wouldn't have mattered really.
The primar and paint just adds a little more protection from the elements.
Thanks. You where lucky that missed the thread! Was the rotor too big or did it come apart?! Looks brutal! Imagine if that was a finger!
Although yours looks like alloy in that picture? Many thread bosses are on carbon frames.
I'd meant it wasn't in an obvious place where the carbon is under lots of directional stress - like if it where a little higher alongside the chain-stay.
As you say, lots of carbon there. To be fair it might not even be into carbon? Can't actually see any threads so much just be some kinda resin over the carbon or a thick primer. This is a gravel frame so they wouldn't have been too worried about the weight and would probably have over protected around the BB against stone strikes? Maybe I'm just trying to convince myself. Will be keeping an eye on it. I've covered it with some electrical tape and will be checking it before each ride for a while for any signs of cracking. How would you cover it more permanently?
Edit: Crane Creek for headsets or another good brand? Where from in the UK online that's still delivering? Start at CRC/Wiggle/Merlin/Sigma/PX/etc?
Monitor it closely. If it does go suddenly it'll likely be while you're wrenching up a big climb so at least it'll just be a walk home, not a busted face
What level chain are those Roady? I have always used SRAM and never had an issue, from PC1130 up to Red PC1190 iirc.
My next chains more likely to be Ultegra just because I heard they were quieter and a little better shifting.
Adjusted my FD and chain still noisy and occasionally drops in big/big combo now I have 52/36. I’ll check the RD low limit and chain length tomorrow.
Odd that would affect it but perhaps it was a little out already but the 53/39 rings or angle meant I could get away with it.
My next chains more likely to be Ultegra just because I heard they were quieter and a little better shifting.
Adjusted my FD and chain still noisy and occasionally drops in big/big combo now I have 52/36. I’ll check the RD low limit and chain length tomorrow.
Odd that would affect it but perhaps it was a little out already but the 53/39 rings or angle meant I could get away with it.
Hmm, need some Jonny input.
Redid the RD, checked the limits and re-tensioned the cable, checked the bike in the stand. All good.
Checked chain length big to big without RD and OK. Checked chain for stretch. 0.5 on the park tool checker.
On the trainer it will drop the chain in the big/big combination after a few rotations of the cranks.
Shifts up/down on the FD perfect. Doesn’t rub the cage at either end.
Last thing I can think of is a dry/bad chain link which makes it hop off. otherwise start guessing and replacing parts starting with a brand new chain.
Chainrings are new, lightly used chain and cassette.
Any other suggestions?
Redid the RD, checked the limits and re-tensioned the cable, checked the bike in the stand. All good.
Checked chain length big to big without RD and OK. Checked chain for stretch. 0.5 on the park tool checker.
On the trainer it will drop the chain in the big/big combination after a few rotations of the cranks.
Shifts up/down on the FD perfect. Doesn’t rub the cage at either end.
Last thing I can think of is a dry/bad chain link which makes it hop off. otherwise start guessing and replacing parts starting with a brand new chain.
Chainrings are new, lightly used chain and cassette.
Any other suggestions?
Soldato
If anyone works for (or has a NHS person in their house), Endura are offering 50% discount of RRP. You need to e-mail proof (selfie with NHS ID) to in to Endura by the 21st April.
https://blog.endurasport.com/?BlogID=1003
https://blog.endurasport.com/?BlogID=1003
Soldato
- Joined
- 23 Nov 2004
- Posts
- 10,646
I'd be trying to pin point where the chain is dropping off and looking for a bent tooth.
Park seem to suggest chaning 11-12 speed chains at .5% .
https://youtu.be/gXd-3UnqoaM?t=176
Sounds like a possible chain line problem also.
Stripped and relubed chain so will put that back on tomorrow, one link maybe a bit sticky but the squirt lube can do that to them. If I still have issues then I’ll look at getting a new one.
Chain line shouldn’t have changed, same cranks (Rotor) with P2M now fitted. No spacers or wavey washers, direct fit with the C Bear BB.
In theory it’s perhaps slightly different as the circumferences of the chainrings are slightly different... I’ll check the chainrings, but brand new out of packet.
Last edited:
Soldato
- Joined
- 23 Nov 2004
- Posts
- 10,646
If all that's changed is going down a tooth then check height of the mech. Maybe a combination of high screw out allowing the inner plate to sit closer to the back of the chain or if that's all good maybe more tension on the cable to hold it closer?
How does the curve of the mech sit compared to the rings? Some bikes allow you to alter it and some bikes come set really wrong.
How does the curve of the mech sit compared to the rings? Some bikes allow you to alter it and some bikes come set really wrong.
Soldato
Meet my new friend, FrankenCrank!
Couldn't justify £75 for a new Ultegra 50t ring for a bike that lives on the turbo now, so ordered a 105 50t from Wiggle.
Realised when I went to bolt it together that the Ultegra (6750) outer has captive/hidden nuts, so the chainring bolts are one piece, not two. Raided the old bits box and nicked the bolts from an old FSA Gosssamer chainset. End result is pretty ugly but it sorted the chain slip, so I can have a proper crack at sprints again
Couldn't justify £75 for a new Ultegra 50t ring for a bike that lives on the turbo now, so ordered a 105 50t from Wiggle.
Realised when I went to bolt it together that the Ultegra (6750) outer has captive/hidden nuts, so the chainring bolts are one piece, not two. Raided the old bits box and nicked the bolts from an old FSA Gosssamer chainset. End result is pretty ugly but it sorted the chain slip, so I can have a proper crack at sprints again
Hehehe... Nice work!
My Cervelo P2 has developed a horrific creak from the bottom bracket area, possibly due to spending six months on the turbo trainer...
And I don't have the tools or spares (or skill, tbh) for a service or repair. Might need to swap it out for the Boardman winter bike (it is kind of summer time, after all).
How easy is a Bbright to service with standard hex wrenches, spanners and screw drivers?
My Cervelo P2 has developed a horrific creak from the bottom bracket area, possibly due to spending six months on the turbo trainer...
And I don't have the tools or spares (or skill, tbh) for a service or repair. Might need to swap it out for the Boardman winter bike (it is kind of summer time, after all).
How easy is a Bbright to service with standard hex wrenches, spanners and screw drivers?
My Park chain checker shows 0.5%+ for a brand new SRAM PC1130.
Meet my new friend, FrankenCrank!
Couldn't justify £75 for a new Ultegra 50t ring for a bike that lives on the turbo now, so ordered a 105 50t from Wiggle.
Realised when I went to bolt it together that the Ultegra (6750) outer has captive/hidden nuts, so the chainring bolts are one piece, not two. Raided the old bits box and nicked the bolts from an old FSA Gosssamer chainset. End result is pretty ugly but it sorted the chain slip, so I can have a proper crack at sprints again
I've got a frankencrank too. I didn't fancy the price of a new Ultegra outer ring and didn't care about putting 105 on for slight weight gain. Didn't quite realise the spider/chainring don't line up perfectly but it's only cosmetic. Worked fine for 18 months or so now.
Hehehe... Nice work!
My Cervelo P2 has developed a horrific creak from the bottom bracket area, possibly due to spending six months on the turbo trainer...
And I don't have the tools or spares (or skill, tbh) for a service or repair. Might need to swap it out for the Boardman winter bike (it is kind of summer time, after all).
How easy is a Bbright to service with standard hex wrenches, spanners and screw drivers?
It's a press fit standard. So not really. Then again threaded standards also need special tools.
Soldato
- Joined
- 23 Nov 2004
- Posts
- 10,646
Yeah, same here with a tool I use in the shop.
I've got in a newer park tool one designed for 12 speed that, AFAIK, doesn't count roller wear so is more precise.
Soldato
I have a small emergency guys, if someone could offer assistance!
I thought I would plug my Di2 in, check firmware, charge it up etc, but somehow I seem to have borked it. The first time I plugged it in to my PC it didn't seem to want to connect. I tried a second time and it did, I can't remember if I pressed the button on the Di2, but at some point I pressed it in varying manners to try and wake it. Now, it doesn't connect to my Wahoo and the gears aren't changing. When it's connected to the PC it doesn't show the rear and front shifters as being connected.
The green and red light appear to flash in pretty random manner now, no matter what I do with the button. I think at some point I held the button down, which now looking at the manual means RD Protection Reset mode. I've tried pulling all the cables out for 10 seconds to see if it resets things. No help.
Any ideas? For now I'll just leave it plugged in charging (I think, but the lights are still flashing madly)
**EDIT** I've unplugged and plugged back in the rear derailleur and that now works again. I can't find my tool for unplugging though, so don't want to try the trickier positioned front derailleur at the moment.
So how I reset it all and get it connected back in to my head unit?
Thanks
I thought I would plug my Di2 in, check firmware, charge it up etc, but somehow I seem to have borked it. The first time I plugged it in to my PC it didn't seem to want to connect. I tried a second time and it did, I can't remember if I pressed the button on the Di2, but at some point I pressed it in varying manners to try and wake it. Now, it doesn't connect to my Wahoo and the gears aren't changing. When it's connected to the PC it doesn't show the rear and front shifters as being connected.
The green and red light appear to flash in pretty random manner now, no matter what I do with the button. I think at some point I held the button down, which now looking at the manual means RD Protection Reset mode. I've tried pulling all the cables out for 10 seconds to see if it resets things. No help.
Any ideas? For now I'll just leave it plugged in charging (I think, but the lights are still flashing madly)
**EDIT** I've unplugged and plugged back in the rear derailleur and that now works again. I can't find my tool for unplugging though, so don't want to try the trickier positioned front derailleur at the moment.
So how I reset it all and get it connected back in to my head unit?
Thanks