*** Official Ubiquiti Discussion Thread ***

Thinking of getting a NanoHD based on the comments above. On sky broadband so can just add as an access point and turn off the sky hub WiFi? My mate is a sky installer so is going to run my cable outside and up to the attic.

I was going to terminate it in the living room and add a wall jack for the router to plug into. If I understand POE correctly, is it best to plug the router into the injector and then that into the wall which runs up to the attic and then into the AP?

It will be located in the landing, blue dot in pic, but it’s beside the hot water tank, yellow dot, assume that won’t cause too many issues? I.e still be able to have my Apple TV stream in 4K?

Is the range reasonable on them? I’ve got outdoor hue lights to install so need a bit of signal into the garden. They are only about 6 foot from the house.

https://imgur.com/a/D8XdfQV
D8XdfQV
 
Thinking of getting a NanoHD based on the comments above. On sky broadband so can just add as an access point and turn off the sky hub WiFi? My mate is a sky installer so is going to run my cable outside and up to the attic.

I was going to terminate it in the living room and add a wall jack for the router to plug into. If I understand POE correctly, is it best to plug the router into the injector and then that into the wall which runs up to the attic and then into the AP?

It will be located in the landing, blue dot in pic, but it’s beside the hot water tank, yellow dot, assume that won’t cause too many issues? I.e still be able to have my Apple TV stream in 4K?

Is the range reasonable on them? I’ve got outdoor hue lights to install so need a bit of signal into the garden. They are only about 6 foot from the house.

https://imgur.com/a/D8XdfQV
D8XdfQV

Don’t expect miracles. To get pretty much guaranteed good coverage the rule of thumb is no more than 1 wall or floor between the access point and the client. If you add in things like reinforced concrete then it all gets squirrelly fast. Outside walls can also be a bit difficult to get through. And colour-changing or self-cleaning glass. That just stops WLAN dead. If you want garden WLAN then put an AP AC Mesh (or two) on the outside of the building. That’s the only way to guarantee good outside coverage. If the fitter is running cables outside anyway then it’s just a bit longer up a ladder for him/her. And the external access points will give a tiny bit of extra coverage in the house as well.

And run a cable to your Apple TV. Then it will definitely stream 4K.

By this point you’ve spent £300-£400 on access points and you may as well bite the bullet and spend another £120 on a UniFi PoE switch. USW-8-60W will do you fine. Now, at this point, you’ve spent £500 rather than £160 on the UAP-HDNano but you have good indoor coverage, good outdoor coverage and your Apple TV runs the way you want it to.
 
Yep, I live in a 3 story Edwardian house which is a bit of a funny shape, 1 AP just doesn't cut it so I've pretty much ended up with a wired AP on each floor. Probably overkill but it means that everybody can stream 4K anywhere in the house (I have 5 x Apple TVs) . Getting a wire onto each floor was a royal pain in the rear, getting one to each room would have just been a nightmare hence I was happy to stump up for 3 x AC-PROs and 1 x AC-LR for the garden/barn.
 
Don’t expect miracles. To get pretty much guaranteed good coverage the rule of thumb is no more than 1 wall or floor between the access point and the client. If you add in things like reinforced concrete then it all gets squirrelly fast. Outside walls can also be a bit difficult to get through. And colour-changing or self-cleaning glass. That just stops WLAN dead. If you want garden WLAN then put an AP AC Mesh (or two) on the outside of the building. That’s the only way to guarantee good outside coverage. If the fitter is running cables outside anyway then it’s just a bit longer up a ladder for him/her. And the external access points will give a tiny bit of extra coverage in the house as well.

And run a cable to your Apple TV. Then it will definitely stream 4K.

By this point you’ve spent £300-£400 on access points and you may as well bite the bullet and spend another £120 on a UniFi PoE switch. USW-8-60W will do you fine. Now, at this point, you’ve spent £500 rather than £160 on the UAP-HDNano but you have good indoor coverage, good outdoor coverage and your Apple TV runs the way you want it to.

Thanks @WJA96 and @HEADRAT, a few things for me to consider then...

I’d prefer to do it right in the first instance and it seems like it’s easy to add additional pieces of equipment or replace with newer stuff in the future, especially if I get this initial set up right.
 
If it helps anyone with planning, this real world example shows a configuration that works for me, giving >100Mbps throughput over WiFi across my entire boundary inside and out (except a few extreme corners of the garden). For reference the house is about 17m wide and 20m deep, external construction of brick around timber frame for the most part. Internal walls in the front portion are horsehair and timber so thin but the rear part of the T-shape modern solid brick walls - floors are bog standard wood. The APs shown in the roof areas are ACLRs, mounted to joists in the relevant loft space pointing down, and cabled into the network. The external one highlighted is a Pro meshed to the nearest ACLR at the back. Power set to medium all round as I found that facilitates hand off with roaming while still ensuring the mesh works satisfactorily.

vRNpEQr.jpg
 
That does help paint a good picture @BigT thanks.

Are you able to setup an access point using just the iOS app?

edit - it’s ok, took two mins to find the answer myself. Google is really useful sometimes.
 
Afternoon people.
I have a UAP-LR, purchased around May 2016 (in case that makes a difference to revisions).
It has the POE injector that came in the box.
Can I assume it wouldn't be a simple matter of plugging said AP into a POE port on a "cheap and cheerful" 8prt Switch and for it to work?
I'll be honest, POE isn't my forte - in my mind it's a matter of removing the injector and using an actual POE switch instead - but I'm going to guess there are standards, and power requirements and......?

Cheers all.
 
@stoofa

Cheap and cheerful POE switch will work fine.

I powered my AC Lite until recently with a Netgear GS308P from the rainforest site for £45.

Since then I’ve swapped the switch out for a UniFi 8 port POE switch.
 
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I finally bit the bullet after procrastinating for months over a UDM to replace the BT Smart Hub 2.

I actually find the performance and stability of the BT device good, it’s the lack of configuration options that annoys me.

For instance not having the ability to setup any firewall rules, seems it’s either block internet for a device or allow it, and can only be configured through the phone app.

Bit overkill but been wanting to try one out for ages, I don’t need any of the advanced stuff that the USG offered with the Json config, so should be fine for me, hopefully!
 
Afternoon people.
I have a UAP-LR, purchased around May 2016 (in case that makes a difference to revisions).
It has the POE injector that came in the box.
Can I assume it wouldn't be a simple matter of plugging said AP into a POE port on a "cheap and cheerful" 8prt Switch and for it to work?
I'll be honest, POE isn't my forte - in my mind it's a matter of removing the injector and using an actual POE switch instead - but I'm going to guess there are standards, and power requirements and......?

Cheers all.

It won't work quite as easily as you would like. The UAP-LR wants 24v PoE and a 'normal' PoE switch will chuck out 48v 802.3af PoE. You can get it to work though, you need an INS-3AF-I-G which will take in 802.3af from the switch and send out 24v PoE to the AP.
 
Thank you for the replies regarding using a POE switch.
So a little further reading indicates (I think) my AP isn't 802.3af and only supports "Passive POE". If I could source a passive POE switch it would "just work".
However, as everything new these days is 802.3af, I'd need one of the Passive to 802.3af converters.

Cheers peeps.
 
What Ubiquiti model am I looking for as a router/AP. I'm on VM and I want to put the SH3 into modem mode and need something with routing options (including Wi-Fi).

Dream machine looks to do it but a little on the expensive side.
 
I'm having issues with my AC-LR in that clients are getting a low/weak signal but connectivity just doesn't work. My guess is that the AP's wifi signal is travelling further than the clients can reliably transmit back, but I thought that this shouldn't happen?

I've got the Tx power set to auto and have tried other settings but not much difference as far as I can see. It wasn't always like this. I'm wondering if a firmware update may have changed things but I can't remember clearly enough when I started having issues. Any ideas?
 
What Ubiquiti model am I looking for as a router/AP. I'm on VM and I want to put the SH3 into modem mode and need something with routing options (including Wi-Fi).

Dream machine looks to do it but a little on the expensive side.

UDM is the only all in one Ubiquiti offer atm - but it's very good.

It'll be a router, AP and UniFi controller - hence the slightly expensive price...
 
UDM is the only all in one Ubiquiti offer atm - but it's very good.

It'll be a router, AP and UniFi controller - hence the slightly expensive price...

Thanks, I thought this may be the case. I might just go for it as I'll need to add an AP elsewhere at some point for full coverage.
 
Thank you for the replies regarding using a POE switch.
So a little further reading indicates (I think) my AP isn't 802.3af and only supports "Passive POE". If I could source a passive POE switch it would "just work".
However, as everything new these days is 802.3af, I'd need one of the Passive to 802.3af converters.

Cheers peeps.

Yep, your AP is 24v passive PoE only.

There are switches that'll power them (UniFi US-8-150W for example) but you'll be paying a premium for it. It'd be more cost effective to buy an 802.3af switch and an INS-3AF-I-G converter.
 
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