Road Cycling
- Thread starter FrenchTart
- Start date
I guess there's no rush for a month or two. If it's full price, I may pull the trigger anyway as it gets cooler.
Soldato
- Joined
- 23 Nov 2004
- Posts
- 10,655
New chain fitted. Jumping sometimes, seems to be multiple gears though generally always middle of block ish. When it jumps it falls off outer chainring almost onto inner. Chainring or still possibly cassette?
I was for sure a bit overdue on the chain (didn't seem to last as long as usual and had been lax on checking!).
Edit: Wow, it was only last March I got the chainring... so ~6-7k miles ago.
Okay so I found pics of the chainring from last year.. new..
and now...
Ouch. I know winter was tough but the previous chainring lasted 3-4 years (new with bike) and many more miles before I had any issues. The small chainring was replaced after a few years and looks fine still. 105 = cheese?
Yeah that is a bit ******.
I've had to change an ultegra one last week that looked better than yours and wouldn't slip if going up a hill in a high gear low cadence sort of power but would slip off sprinting out a corner more high rpm type torque.
Generally cassette slip you stay in gear and get a bang. Chain rings the outer slips off fully or into the inner and a worn inner usually shows up as chain suck up and into the frame if really bad or a rumble as it holds onto each link ever so slightly. You'll look down and see the chain bouncing around under load.
I tried it a few years ago and think I actually made them worse. My front wheel needs done but the shops here are all booked up for two months due to the government voucher so I'm having to live with it.
Think I may just get a spare rear wheel in that case
Soldato
- Joined
- 23 Nov 2004
- Posts
- 10,655
We're booked out for at least a month but still faking in punctures and wheel truing as they're kind of essential.
The theory isn't hard and you can get it relatively good using the brake pads. Find which side the buckle is, move the caliper so the pad is touching only at that point and adjust the spokes on the opposite side of the wheel a quarter turn at a time.
The theory isn't hard and you can get it relatively good using the brake pads. Find which side the buckle is, move the caliper so the pad is touching only at that point and adjust the spokes on the opposite side of the wheel a quarter turn at a time.
That aligns with my experience here. This one was only slipping when I accelerated from near stand still / moving off. So heavy load I guess.
Went to change it today and realised one of the chainring bolts is toast. Availability for the bolts looks a bit poor online. Emailed the LBS before I make a journey down to find out they have none. Probably should have just stumped up for a chainset but I heard the newer R7000/R8000 chainsets aren't typically compatible with the 6800 FD. Can't see why not but didn't want to risk it.
I may have a go, does that change if I need to replace the spoke at all?
The other problem with the frame is the bottle bosses on the downtube keep turning and can't get the bolt out. LBS says it's a common problem on the Defy frame
Replacing a spoke is easy enough. Change it out, make sure the crosses with other spokes match up. Tighten it up, 'ping' it with your finger every so often, and compare the ping to other spokes on the same side. Once it's about right proceed as for wheel truing
Soldato
- Joined
- 23 Nov 2004
- Posts
- 10,655
Hardest part is getting the spoke in having to remove the cassette/brake rotor.
Copy the pattern as saytan says, which side it comes from and under under over or over over under. You'll see a pattern.
One spoke you shouldn't have too much a problem. Up to 3/4 you'll run into issues.
Copy the pattern as saytan says, which side it comes from and under under over or over over under. You'll see a pattern.
One spoke you shouldn't have too much a problem. Up to 3/4 you'll run into issues.
Still on the look out for reasonably priced but good bibs. I didn’t want purple Rapha ones and no normal colours in their sale.
So I’m giving Pactimo a try, they make the kit for Rally Pro cycling based in Boulder. Can get their top end bibs for about £100 at the moment which is what I paid for Enduras early summer.
The Pactimo review well online & on forums, but it’s one of those things you just need to try yourself. I’m not convinced that £200 bib shorts offer any improvement over £100-125 ones.
It will soon be bib tight weather if it stops raining!
So I’m giving Pactimo a try, they make the kit for Rally Pro cycling based in Boulder. Can get their top end bibs for about £100 at the moment which is what I paid for Enduras early summer.
The Pactimo review well online & on forums, but it’s one of those things you just need to try yourself. I’m not convinced that £200 bib shorts offer any improvement over £100-125 ones.
It will soon be bib tight weather if it stops raining!
So I got this new High Pressure, mini track pump this week -
First trip out with it, someone got a flat. People had been interested in the pump, so I was called to action! Have to say, I'm really impressed by it. Obviously not a patch on a proper track pump, but I had the guys tyre to 80psi in probably about 20-30 seconds. I'm even considering seeing if I can fit a second tube in my saddle pack if I remove the Co2...
First trip out with it, someone got a flat. People had been interested in the pump, so I was called to action! Have to say, I'm really impressed by it. Obviously not a patch on a proper track pump, but I had the guys tyre to 80psi in probably about 20-30 seconds. I'm even considering seeing if I can fit a second tube in my saddle pack if I remove the Co2...
https://www.wiggle.co.uk/lezyne-micro-floor-drive-hp-abs-pump?sku=5360458180
The hose is quite tight and rubbery too, so I think it'll be fine. I've lowered the pump in the bracket a little once I was happy with pedal clearance
So I got this new High Pressure, mini track pump this week -
First trip out with it, someone got a flat. People had been interested in the pump, so I was called to action! Have to say, I'm really impressed by it. Obviously not a patch on a proper track pump, but I had the guys tyre to 80psi in probably about 20-30 seconds. I'm even considering seeing if I can fit a second tube in my saddle pack if I remove the Co2...
i've got one of those, i used it when i cycled to London to Switzerland a few years back... brilliant bit of kit
Anyone got any suggestions for a saddle "upgrade" to my stock specialized one? Its been ok for me so far, but usually a bit hard on anything longer than 30 miles.
As always for me (budget biker) something that wont break my bank.
As always for me (budget biker) something that wont break my bank.
check out ISM they've got a good range, i use ISM PS 1.0 Saddle (with Titanium Rails) which is meant to be a TT saddle but i've done plus 200k rides on it, it's very comfortable. They also do long distance gel type saddles.
and I cannot stand them....
Nobody can rightfully suggest a saddle out of thin air for you and any decent saddle worth having will cost the pennies I am afraid.
I ride Fizik saddles. Arione R1's and Antares R1 Versus Evo. I don't particularly get on with any of them.
Have tried Fabric Scoop's and an S Works Power recently. Didn't get on with neither of them and these were both loaned from people who will never ever change away from those as they love them so much.
So that's a proper mix of different shapes, lengths and styles of saddle (all top tier full carbon expensive jobs also!) to show you that it is the most personal/differing thing between people and their bikes.