Road Cycling

[xdcx]

Single, shows up, says battery status okay and asks to calibrate. Everything looks like it should be okay, but it isn't. I've seen people using cork under the contacts, didn't notice your post re the batteries though, I'll have a look and might give that a go.

People use cork, I used a tiny cutting from Kenco Milincano instant coffee lid.
CR1 batteries with a little bit baby oil on them.
If you are touching the internals/gold contacts in the pedal, be VERY gentle and careful. They snap off if you even look at them the wrong way never mind touch them.

And when screwing the doors back in, double, triple check they are lined up and threaded correct as the yellow rubber band thing on there will snap on you if you have them anything other than perfectly lined up on the thread.

 

[dod]

People use cork, I used a tiny cutting from Kenco Milincano instant coffee lid.
CR1 batteries with a little bit baby oil on them.
If you are touching the internals/gold contacts in the pedal, be VERY gentle and careful. They snap off if you even look at them the wrong way never mind touch them.

And when screwing the doors back in, double, triple check they are lined up and threaded correct as the yellow rubber band thing on there will snap on you if you have them anything other than perfectly lined up on the thread.

ta, will do. I have a horrible feeling I might have cross threaded it. Yellow thing is okay but the cover doesn't feel like it's tightening up properly. This is where it started, about 25 minutes in.
https://www.strava.com/activities/3955980509/analysis

 

[BurningHorizons]

Hi guys,

Fitted some replacement wheels yesterday and thought everything went well - biggest concern was the cassette change over and it appears to have been well founded... only did a couple of miles today as a road test but after bout 2 minutes, I noticed the rattle of the cassette. I'm 100% I tightened it down enough when switching, used all the right tools etc. I just transferred the rings from my old wheels onto the new, but there is definitely some play, especially on the smaller rings.

The new wheels, Shimano, came with a single spacer - is that not being fitted the problem? Only place I can think it would go is on the hub before I fit the cassette?

Thanks.

Assuming this is a 10 speed cassette on an 11 speed wheel then you should use both the 1.85mm (that came with wheel) and 1mm (that comes with a 10s cassette). If you don't have the latter, then they are available to buy at all the usual places.
For 8/9 speed cassettes, you just need the 1.85mm spacer.

 

[xdcx]

ta, will do. I have a horrible feeling I might have cross threaded it. Yellow thing is okay but the cover doesn't feel like it's tightening up properly. This is where it started, about 25 minutes in.
https://www.strava.com/activities/3955980509/analysis

Oh yeah that's classic Vectors right there. Jees.
Your pedal is just dropping its power constantly due to bad contact. It leads to what you are seeing but also absolutely wrecks your batteries also and uses them up in very short space of time.
The fixes I said purely just eliminate the movement/loss of contact inside the pedal body.

I think my left hand pedal is also cross threaded. It doesn't tighten so well either but it still works without the drops these days with the fixes so don't think it's totally knackered and game over. Should be OK.

 

[#Chri5#]

For something a bit different, I've been trying to expand my VeloViewer explorer score (see here https://blog.veloviewer.com/veloviewer-explorer-score-and-max-square/), so I've been plotting routes to fill in the gaps to up my maximum square size.

I went out early on Sunday (how cold for August?!) and took the winter hack as some of the country lanes I'm seeing for the first time are just utterly wrecked - craters, mud, sand, gravel etc. In fact, I've seen many a bridle path in better than condition. My legs were almost as bad the roads, I just couldn't see to get a decent pace up and kept having to get out saddle just to get to what I'd expect be cruising speed. For my all-day epic a couple of weeks ago, I averaged 24km/h. On Sunday for 100km I averaged 24.7km/h. Perhaps I need a lighter winter hack?

 

[#Chri5#]

The OLED (shows battery charge %, mode etc) on my Exposure Strada 1200 light died after my epic ride last month. I arranged to return it to USE for a repair as it was under warranty (purchased October 2018). I went to check the fault was still present when packaging it up and found the light was totally dead. I sent it back using RMSD on Saturday 25th August. I got an e-mail yesterday to see it was coming back and APC delivered it earlier today.

The light was obviously totally goosed as they've replaced it with a brand new Strada SB (Super Bright), so that means I've got an upgrade. No hassle or quibble over the warranty, just a new light sent out

 

[SoliD]

Said it before a few times that exposure are fantastic if you have any issues. Unfortunately I I have had a few but when they work they are absolutely top notch bits of kit! Luckily never had one completely die. Just issues with buttons.

 

[Berger]

I had a battery drain issue on a flare rear light, they recased it to a newer design and replaced the battery for not too much cost.

I had my joystick front light bounce down the road at 50kmh once and a few scratches on the case but no faults.

 

[FishFluff]

Aye, I saw your posts doing a search

Mine had been perfect right up to the battery change, not sure what's happened

I had the exact same experience with mine. Vectors have had numerous battery door revisions, the newest of which has fixed all of my issues. Do you know which version you're using? There's a picture of the latest one in this blog: https://rideupgrades.com/2020/04/18/garmin-vector-battery-doors-version-3/ If it doesn't look like the one with 4 spikes on it, then get on to Garmin support and they'll send you the latest one. Since switching to that I've not been using mineral oil on the batteries or any of the other hacks. They've been working fine. I realise that I've now jinxed myself and will have nothing but problems from here on out.

 

[dod]

I had the exact same experience with mine. Vectors have had numerous battery door revisions, the newest of which has fixed all of my issues. Do you know which version you're using? There's a picture of the latest one in this blog: https://rideupgrades.com/2020/04/18/garmin-vector-battery-doors-version-3/ If it doesn't look like the one with 4 spikes on it, then get on to Garmin support and they'll send you the latest one. Since switching to that I've not been using mineral oil on the batteries or any of the other hacks. They've been working fine. I realise that I've now jinxed myself and will have nothing but problems from here on out.

thanks, definitely rev 1 or 2. I bought these second hand, worth a try to see if I can get a free upgrade though.

 

[Roady]

Cube - 541 Stack, 385 Reach.
Vitus - 545, 379 Reach.

So in theory they should be pretty negligible in difference. There are 170mm cranks on the Vitus but I've set saddle height to centre of pedal axle when crank is at 12 o'clock. Same saddle. Quite possible the Reach is a little different. IIRC I've got a 110MM stem on both the Vitus and the Cube though (Vitus came with 80 or 90mm which was just laughable).

Hmmm pretty close, could be the crank length? You find yourself spinning more on the shorter cranks? You should be!

Decathlon said I'd have to wait at least a month for them to replace the spoke and check the wheel... so I bought a pair of Mavic Aksium discs. I heop they're a bit stronger than the Triban wheels. I was eyeing up some Hunt wheels but I should probably drop my weight a bit before I spend that much, currently 110kg. Time for me to start pushing my limits a bit more!

It's not about pushing yourself, doing that you may even increase weight, but regularly riding more and getting more base longer type rides. You want the cardio burn without the muscle build if you're particularly weight obsessed. If you're fairly new to riding then I'd say not to even worry about it - just get out and ride, get out and enjoy yourself and the weight loss will come naturally.

I mean now I'm hovering around 77/78kg, I've always said previously my summer weight was 75kg and winter was 77/78kg. I've only once been as low as 74kg a few years back and it wasn't good for me - looked unhealthy. This year I dipped down below 77kg during Lockdown just from the massive amounts of riding I did enjoying the weather, then as I pushed myself more gaining fitness & power I pushed weight up from that from the power work (gaining muscle). Now I'm back to Zwifting for most of my volume that hasn't changed as rather than the previous group rides I'd be doing, now I'm racing and TTT'ing so it's again all power work. Just resigned to being 'sub-80kg' for the time being and anything towards the lower 70's will be a pleasant surprise if it every happens again... I can't see me getting that riding volume back in my life for long lazy miles (now with a young family) and I seem to as time pressed as ever trying to fit in riding/racing just to keep my fitness. But that is probably my main goal now than chasing the KG's. Chasing maintaining fitness regardless of my weight! Just keep at it! I started off at around 100kg a few years ago!

Tried my Pactimo shorts today.

Spoiler

Sizing seems a bit too large to me. I went off their guide, but I could have sized down I think. I bought a large with long leg. Straps are OK, the middle section is a good height for me, not too low. Material is pretty nice quality, light and soft.

Main issue is the shorts, not enough compression and leg grippers not strong enough (probably a size thing). Glad I got long leg or they would be like hot pants!

I'm 189cm and 79-82kg depending on season/how much I'm riding, probably upper end of that at the moment. They aren't so bad I won't wear them more, but they won't be my first choice of short for a Sunday ride.

I understand about no returns once worn and need tags, but it's a little ridiculous when they cost as much as they do and no way to try before you buy. Maybe offering a discount to size down like Rapha did with their kit, Endura offer 90 day no quibble exchange.

I'm a large in Castelli, Endura or Rapha pro team, medium in Rapha Core.

Great review and comparison, thanks!

Aye sizing with bike kit is ******* brutal.

We've asked for custom castelli kit for the shop so will cross the sizing bridge soon for that

Most should know Castelli...?! One of the few 'premium' brands which is generally affordable to the rank and file.

The light was obviously totally goosed as they've replaced it with a brand new Strada SB (Super Bright), so that means I've got an upgrade. No hassle or quibble over the warranty, just a new light sent out

Great to hear, big fan of Exposure and the only time I've dealt with their support had equally as good a response (replacement rubber cover for TraceR).

I've not been using mineral oil on the batteries or any of the other hacks

Switch to crank based. Love my 4iiii. Absolutely 'fit&forget', zero issues or hacks required!

 

[Lethal`]

Hmmm pretty close, could be the crank length? You find yourself spinning more on the shorter cranks? You should be!

I have wondered this but would one really notice so much difference with a 2.5mm shorter crank?

My Giant has 170mm cranks too and can't say I notice much difference.

 

[Roady]

I was always lead to believe riders should/would. Had read before about 'normal' riders using 175mm cranks on the track to increase power when riding fixed gear, but had also heard of TT riders using 170mm to keep cadence up on hilly courses. Could all be marketing/smokes and mirrors to sell more crankarms...

 

[FishFluff]

Switch to crank based. Love my 4iiii. Absolutely 'fit&forget', zero issues or hacks required!

If I didn't switch between bikes so often I would do. I know, I know. OCUK wisdom dictates I should buy a dual-sided power meter for each bike

 

[Roady]

If I didn't switch between bikes so often I would do. I know, I know. OCUK wisdom dictates I should buy a dual-sided power meter for each bike

Obviously.

Then again, when you look at the cost of pedal based compared to crank/spindle based... Then consider if going single sided is 'enough' for the more secondary/commuter/winter bike. It was for me (switching from 'combined' power to left side, even knowing I'm slightly unbalanced that I can still trust the numbers). But then I've only the one bike... But equally I've meant to grab another for the Turbo bike at some point (especially considering last winters prices pre-lockdown).

 

[Maccapacca]

My wheels turned up at last from Strada not that it was any delay from Strada more Specalized changing three wheel types in a year.

And especially for you fussy lot the tyres lined up

https://www.stradawheels.co.uk/product/big-fella-deluxe/

 

[UTmaniac]

Cube - 541 Stack, 385 Reach.
Vitus - 545, 379 Reach.

So in theory they should be pretty negligible in difference. There are 170mm cranks on the Vitus but I've set saddle height to centre of pedal axle when crank is at 12 o'clock. Same saddle. Quite possible the Reach is a little different. IIRC I've got a 110MM stem on both the Vitus and the Cube though (Vitus came with 80 or 90mm which was just laughable).

I generally use bottom dead centre to set the saddle height, with crank in line with seat post at ~5/7 o'clock, measuring pedal top to saddle top following seat tube line. ~90cm for my ~32" cycling inseam, which usually keeps distance consistant between my 170/172.5/175mm cranked bikes.

However, I've had some problems with knee tendons since swapping to 3-bolt Time XPro 10 pedals last summer (possibly just me getting old at nearly 47 ), but if I tweak the saddle position and/or post and get niggles I check the angle between hip/just below kneecap/ankle with normal foot extension when pedal is at bottom dead centre. 25 to 35 degree bend works for many, ~30 degree works for me.

 

[Shadowness]

Anyone any good with head sets?!

Mine's driving me nuts. Just got an extra 5mm spacer to give a bit more spare room to tighten the headset down, as it there was a little play before. But now when I tighten everything down just enough so there's no more play, the bars will barely turn as they are so tight too!

I've had to back it off to a compromise between a little bit of rocking in the headset, and the bars will just about move on their own (ie not tight or much resistance)

 

[Roady]

My wheels turned up at last from Strada not that it was any delay from Strada more Specalized changing three wheel types in a year.

And especially for you fussy lot the tyres lined up

https://www.stradawheels.co.uk/product/big-fella-deluxe/

Not sure why you're blaming Specialized for a DT product?

Look a quality built heavy touring/CX type wheelset but quite heavy and hate to say it... A little overpriced for what they are... 1800-1900g. Unsure why a disk wheelset aimed at 'heavy' riders/off road with modern hubs and rims wouldn't have straight pull spokes (as they're naturally stronger)... Or a wider rim for that matter...!? They should be pretty bomb proof being built like that, but equally you could have got similar/better handbuilt for less money and brand.

 

[Shadowness]

Anyone any good with head sets?!

Mine's driving me nuts. Just got an extra 5mm spacer to give a bit more spare room to tighten the headset down, as it there was a little play before. But now when I tighten everything down just enough so there's no more play, the bars will barely turn as they are so tight too!

I've had to back it off to a compromise between a little bit of rocking in the headset, and the bars will just about move on their own (ie not tight or much resistance)

Nvm. LBS sorted it. Turns out the cap that sits on the top bearing didn't have quite enough clearance to clear it, so it wasn't turning freely.