Condensation and water in double glazed windows

DB_SamX

DB_SamX

DB_SamX

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I've had one particular panel suffering from condensation within the two panes, after my dad powerwashed it from outside. Other windows also washeed were fine though.

Water has collected inside over time, and now 3-4mm high.

I've already had a glazer come round and give me a quote to replace the unit, stating that it cannot be repaired as the seals are probably worn. A look online suggests the same solution. Windows are 10 years old.

Just wanted to double check no one has come across a repair option, which would save on a complete replacement?
 
I believe that although foggy windows due to blown seals can be repaired, to do so with a panel that's been blown for a significant period of time isn't practical. I'd just replace it. How big is it? When I've looked up doing ours, they're surprisingly cheap.
 
Zefan said:
I believe that although foggy windows due to blown seals can be repaired, to do so with a panel that's been blown for a significant period of time isn't practical. I'd just replace it. How big is it? When I've looked up doing ours, they're surprisingly cheap.
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This.

Glass is surprisingly inexpensive made to order. It is why it is such a killer business given how commoditised the individual components are.

If you are located in Herts I can recommend someone.
 
There are repair schemes but your inner window will be stained now with the actual water ingress issue. Not sure the repair schemes can clean internally.
 
That's probably about a 40 quid unit (maybe a bit less) from a decent local trade supplier, so if you're reasonably handy I'd have a go yourself.

All you have to do is pull out the rubber seal to loosen the beads, remove the beads and then the unit (note, might have double sided tape also holding it in) and then refit in reverse.

Obviously a bit more finicky if externally beaded and at first floor level.

Key things are, make sure overall dimensions and the unit thickness match the existing, and use correct size packers.
 
As per the other thread, if you are replacing it then you should order laminated out and toughened in for downstairs windows the extra cost is negligible although you will have to drop the spacer bar to an 18mm.
I wouldn't reccomend pressure washing windows under any circumstances. If they are internally beaded then getting them out is very easy, and in the past with the units I have I've taken them out and then to the glass shop to copy sizes and leading patterns, and then popped them back again until the new one was ready.

I would not reccomend tampering with the rubber seals on the frame though, They're something of a bugbear at the moment, because although the old ones were replaceable the new ones are not. Frames may now only last as little as 15 years before they have to be replaced - something of a scandalous waste of material labour and money.
 
Thats the way to go, reuse the bead if in good condition, do not pull the bead gasket out, it is usually bonded and will be destroyed, some older bead has replacable channel gasket, more cost... As for repairing a blown unit, thats a split down, the desiccant in the geobar will be dead, geobar will be scrap, glass has to have all the black hot melt bladed off, glass has to go through a specalist cleaning machine/dryer. Rebuilt from scratch and then argon gassed. Only do this if you have a special window or stained glass/leaded one, otherwise just ain't worth it.
 
Flake87 said:
Frames may now only last as little as 15 years before they have to be replaced - something of a scandalous waste of material labour and money.
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Eh? Where you getting this from? If all the hardware is from china maybe yea (probably more like 3yrs for garbage hinges and locks) but the actual frames will outlast us that's for sure.

DB_SamX said:
I've had one particular panel suffering from condensation within the two panes, after my dad powerwashed it from outside. Other windows also washeed were fine though.

Water has collected inside over time, and now 3-4mm high.

I've already had a glazer come round and give me a quote to replace the unit, stating that it cannot be repaired as the seals are probably worn. A look online suggests the same solution. Windows are 10 years old.

Just wanted to double check no one has come across a repair option, which would save on a complete replacement?
Click to expand...

It came out at £43 inc VAT on my system at work, just in case you were still after supply only prices.
 
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Johno please? said:
Eh? Where you getting this from? If all the hardware is from china maybe yea (probably more like 3yrs for garbage hinges and locks) but the actual frames will outlast us that's for sure.



It came out at £43 inc VAT on my system at work, just in case you were still after supply only prices.
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Neighbours across the road are having new patio doors / bay window, talking to the fitters the seals are again blown / welded in and cannot be changed. When the seals fail they cannot be removed or replaced. My seals didn't make 15 years perhaps because they are sun facing and UV kills them, but they could be replaced, (despite what a pain it was). The latest generation cannot be repaced so when the seals go that's it, the entire frame has to be replaced I'm afraid.
 
Flake87 said:
Neighbours across the road are having new patio doors / bay window, talking to the fitters the seals are again blown / welded in and cannot be changed. When the seals fail they cannot be removed or replaced. My seals didn't make 15 years perhaps because they are sun facing and UV kills them, but they could be replaced, (despite what a pain it was). The latest generation cannot be repaced so when the seals go that's it, the entire frame has to be replaced I'm afraid.
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Whaaaaaat, don't suppose you know the profile manufacturer? Never heard of this before and we change sealed units frequently.
 
Johno please? said:
Eh? Where you getting this from? If all the hardware is from china maybe yea (probably more like 3yrs for garbage hinges and locks) but the actual frames will outlast us that's for sure.



It came out at £43 inc VAT on my system at work, just in case you were still after supply only prices.
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Thanks. My quote seems high then, even if its labour on top. I'll get a second quote.
 
Does anyone know if timber framed double glazing its possible to change the glass panels?

Thinking about getting timber framed double glazing in my new house. (to match the timber framed glazing at the back.)
 
Buffman said:
Does anyone know if timber framed double glazing its possible to change the glass panels?

Thinking about getting timber framed double glazing in my new house. (to match the timber framed glazing at the back.)
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yes of course it is but you must use Butyl putty to seat it, and a multitool vibrating saw thing makes it much easier to remove the old glass. You may break one of the beadings, however you should use new ones, and before you start work make sure you paint / stain them on all faces - this is something a tradesman will never do as jobs are always rushed. also if you are having new wooden frames ask for them to be delivered first so you can adequately paint / treat them on bottom top sides and reveals, as you will never be able to do this once they are fitted. This protects the wood and will keep it good for years to come.

Also when fitting the beading, run glazing silcon in a 'U' around the outer of the glass, and press the bead firmly onto it, this will stop rain from getting behind the bead and into the reveal.
 
xxx
Buffman said:
Does anyone know if timber framed double glazing its possible to change the glass panels?

Thinking about getting timber framed double glazing in my new house. (to match the timber framed glazing at the back.)
Click to expand...
I did a full refurb of all of my timber kitchen windows when I moved in, including a pretty serious rot repair. It isn't anywhere near as simple as UPVC but it is possible and the results are epic.

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>>>

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x20 with 64 to go :rolleyes:
 
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