Rust prevention.....

EddScott · 10 Feb 2022 at 11:35

I had been planning to use Lanoguard on my JDM cars.

Eventually, both of them will have chassis refresh completed so neither will have underseal or any form of protection. They're not used in the winter but do still want to protect the work. One of them will also be kept in a garage fairly close to the sea so bit concerned the sea air will attack it.

I've put it off purely becuase I want it to go on clear so it still looks like new.

jpaul · 10 Feb 2022 at 12:41

heading down $$$ POR route - interesting comment, I refrigerate superglue but hadn't considered, similar, for other products
Once you've opened a can of POR, seal the top with plastic as well as the lid and bung it in the freezer. It'll last for at least a year.

jpaul · 13 Feb 2022 at 07:54

subsequently read that POR 15 has no flexibility (sets rock hard) so not good on body parts that flex where it can show cracks, letting moisure through (youtube guy didn't test that) , doesn't key well on non-rusty surfaces(clean metal/paint residue), also needs a special primer before any top coat ... so research continues.

bainbridge · 13 Feb 2022 at 09:02

There has to be a compromise. If you want flexibility, you'll have a soft product and a hard finish will be rigid. I've gone through 3 different products and have settled on Bilthamber Electrox zinc primer. It's over 90% zinc. 3 coats of this stuff on bare or treated metal is the best rust prevention I've found so far. If any big stone chips manage to punch through all 3 layers and cause a rust spot, I just sand back the affected area, treat with rust converter and dab more primer on.

norm · 11 Mar 2022 at 20:30

bainbridge said:
treat with rust converter and dab more primer on.

The thing about rust converter is it doesn't neutralise the rust entirely it just makes a chemically stable top layer to paint on. So the rust is still there attacking the metal underneath. As evidenced if you scrape at the "treated" surface rust appears.

As has been my experience when I've used rust converters in the past the rust gradually creeps back to the top.

Short of shot blasting metal back to it's raw state and immediately priming I don't think underseals and the like are that worth it unless they've been used from day one, and not trying to cure already rusting metal.

bainbridge · 12 Mar 2022 at 07:05

norm said:
The thing about rust converter is it doesn't neutralise the rust entirely it just makes a chemically stable top layer to paint on. So the rust is still there attacking the metal underneath. As evidenced if you scrape at the "treated" surface rust appears.

As has been my experience when I've used rust converters in the past the rust gradually creeps back to the top.

Short of shot blasting metal back to it's raw state and immediately priming I don't think underseals and the like are that worth it unless they've been used from day one, and not trying to cure already rusting metal.

I don't disagree, and I try to grind back to bare metal where I can. I've come to the conclusion that rust is inevitable but the spread can be slowed down.

Scania · 12 Mar 2022 at 09:51

I’m the end I changed the car - for another V70 - in its service history it mentions rust prevention applied in 2012 which maybe needs refreshing if that’s a thing, I have no idea what it was treated with though.

jpaul · 12 Mar 2022 at 11:36

If anything, I'm more diligent about washing inside of wheel arch lips, but, would have taken out liners and washed through sills on some cars I previously owned.

corrosion/projectile protection doesn't look like a solved story though V, and like paint durability, maybe the environmental(solvent reduction) regs mean it is less durable on modern cars than 2-packs. - another false compromise.

jpaul said:
2021 Honda Accord Hybrid | Ignore the Soundtrack

cjgardens · 13 Mar 2022 at 02:41

norm said:
The thing about rust converter is it doesn't neutralise the rust entirely it just makes a chemically stable top layer to paint on. So the rust is still there attacking the metal underneath. As evidenced if you scrape at the "treated" surface rust appears.

As has been my experience when I've used rust converters in the past the rust gradually creeps back to the top.

Short of shot blasting metal back to it's raw state and immediately priming I don't think underseals and the like are that worth it unless they've been used from day one, and not trying to cure already rusting metal.

Sounds like hammerite

That stuff is the business, I've painted it on rusty metal railings and it hides a thousand sins for years

jpaul · 13 Mar 2022 at 10:13

too young to know the golden days of hammerite - it's the back-up plan - bottle of xylene was the key, and you are good to go.
.... nostalgia for trike at school

providing oxygen/moisture are out it's in abeyance

jpaul · 5 May 2022 at 13:56

Got round to some rust patches on commuter bike at the weekend - old tin of hammerite, since I could not decide on newer rust products to buy.

lesson learned -
when you are using power tools/drill close to your face (bike was stripped on a stand) make sure you have nothing that can dangle in the vicinity of the drill.

The wire brush snagged on the mask strap and the drill was dragged in towards neck area as the mask was pulled down/mangled-up, ended up with an abrasion on throat area.

was using the drill with the on lock, and it took several seconds to understand what the hell was happening, and start to pull drill away.

Jonnycoupe · 5 May 2022 at 18:11

Whoops!

savagesam117 · 5 May 2022 at 22:01

We use 3m bag sealer on our cars. A full strip and then spray that on then paint over the top. Keeps it looking factory too.

adam cool dude · 6 May 2022 at 09:32

norm said:
The thing about rust converter is it doesn't neutralise the rust entirely it just makes a chemically stable top layer to paint on. So the rust is still there attacking the metal underneath. As evidenced if you scrape at the "treated" surface rust appears.

As has been my experience when I've used rust converters in the past the rust gradually creeps back to the top.

Short of shot blasting metal back to it's raw state and immediately priming I don't think underseals and the like are that worth it unless they've been used from day one, and not trying to cure already rusting metal.

Rust convertors are good to use on metal that has been ground back as it can work on a very thin layer or the small pitting. Slapping it on a slab of rust however will never work.

pugheaven · 6 May 2022 at 09:59

Well this is the underside of my 12 year old SRT8... with lanoguard!!! I'll let other decide what works and what doesnt... ZERO rust

jpaul · 6 May 2022 at 10:12

pugheaven said:
Well this is the underside of my 12 year old SRT8... with lanoguard!!! I'll let other decide what works and what doesnt... ZERO rust

OK - but, at least e46/e36 have drainage issues on the sills so it can be like a pear, corrosion from the inside - I'd like a boroscope.

savagesam117 said:
We use 3m bag sealer on our cars

looks like a professional two part epoxy stonechip - not easy for the DIYer

Silent_Scone · 6 May 2022 at 10:37

Depends how far gone, but look at ACF-50.

Edit: Ah, I see someone else also knows lol

Rroff · 6 May 2022 at 10:52

Need to get my truck treated really

last 2 winters whatever they've been treating the roads with has not been kind to it. Was almost like new before the 2020/21 winter and now it looks like it has been rusting 10 years

unfortunately don't have the setup really to do it myself at home.

jpaul said:
was using the drill with the on lock

Ouch! I always try to avoid power tools without a manual trigger - hate Dremels for that.

savagesam117 · 6 May 2022 at 11:09

jpaul said:
OK - but, at least e46/e36 have drainage issues on the sills so it can be like a pear, corrosion from the inside - I'd like a boroscope.

looks like a professional two part epoxy stonechip - not easy for the DIYer

I did it on my drive way. It’s just a case of mixing the bag and screwing it onto a gun and pulling the trigger.

norm · 6 May 2022 at 21:01

adam cool dude said:
Rust convertors are good to use on metal that has been ground back as it can work on a very thin layer or the small pitting. Slapping it on a slab of rust however will never work.

I had a pair of brake calipers shot blasted back to bare metal. I didn't get around to painting them straight away so they got a slight covering of surface rust in places. So I wire brushed them down, cleaned them off with brake cleaner, then used Kurust on them to convert the rust. It formed a nice black coat. On top of which I painted two thick coats of silver e-tech caliper paint. I left this to cure for about a month before I got round to fitting it on the car. After 6 weeks of being on the car I can see rust stains bleeding through the paint, so I am really at a loss to understand this.