DIY ensuite bathroom replacement - build log

Fyi if using zinsser permawhite I wouldn't roller it I'd only brush it. I tried to roller it previously and it bubbled up.
 
Buffman said:
Fyi if using zinsser permawhite I wouldn't roller it I'd only brush it. I tried to roller it previously and it bubbled up.
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That's interesting - just checked what I have and it is permawhite. I rolled, no issues

Edit: I also royally ballsed up the tin so the lid doesn't seal properly and it is probably 80% full.
 
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dlockers said:
That's interesting - just checked what I have and it is permawhite. I rolled, no issues

Edit: I also royally ballsed up the tin so the lid doesn't seal properly and it is probably 80% full.
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Aye i dunno what the issue was but yeah I ****** a ceiling in previous house doing it. Fortunately not this house so not worried!
 
Buffman said:
Aye i dunno what the issue was but yeah I ****** a ceiling in previous house doing it. Fortunately not this house so not worried!
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Must be whatever was under it - I went straight onto brand new boarded/lined plasterboard.
 
Everything is now decorated and siliconed, and I somehow managed to get the glass screen upstairs earlier (using suction cups), which I've now fitted and sealed.

Just the towel radiator (and a blind when it comes back in stock) left to do now. I'm too scared to test the UFH in case it doesn't work :p.

fN5fMwT.jpeg


5WEoAOX.jpeg
 
I'm sure there's some wide angle trickery going on, but how big is the gap between the sink and shower screen?

And when you do get the courage to test the ufh i'd be interested in how you find it as im debating adding it to our future remodel.
 
explicit4u said:
I'm sure there's some wide angle trickery going on, but how big is the gap between the sink and shower screen?

And when you do get the courage to test the ufh i'd be interested in how you find it as im debating adding it to our future remodel.
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You're right, the gap isn't that big, but it's enough and that was the compromise to get a walk-in tray and a double vanity in a relatively narrow room.

Will let you know about the ufh:D.
 
Participant, thanks for sharing your build, it has been great to see the progression!

I do have a few questions please!

Ref ensuring the floor height is correct, what is the best way to do this process? I mean the worst case scenario is, once you have installed your new boards, UFH, floor compound, then tiles.... All of a sudden the john is too high for the waste pipe, or the tiles sit above the lip of the shower tray, or there is a step into the room from the hallway! What is the thought process to ensure floor height is done correctly please?

With tiling from the bottom of the room up to the top, you start with the cut tiles, and finish with whole tiles to ensure it looks right, again how do you ensure these measurements are correct please, what's the easiest way to do it? If you start from the top and work your way down you'll need battens to support the tiles whilst it dries but you'll know the right size for the cut when you get to the bottom. I'd like to have a go at the way you've done it so any tips would be much appreciated!!!
 
So I noticed that the flow wasn't as good in the ensuite as in our main bathroom, despite both being the same setup i.e. combi-fed showers. I did some looking around and noticed a label on top of the Grohe rain head that said 9.5L/min...wtaf??

These companies (or their governments) are deciding that they need to impair your showering experience with built in flow restrictors.

Some butchery with pliers and a screw later and the flow is MUCH better! The culprits:

sMxEBou.jpeg


One of them might be a debris filter, but if the handset gets blocked one day I'll just replace it.

Jimmyrn85 said:
Participant, thanks for sharing your build, it has been great to see the progression!

I do have a few questions please!

Ref ensuring the floor height is correct, what is the best way to do this process? I mean the worst case scenario is, once you have installed your new boards, UFH, floor compound, then tiles.... All of a sudden the john is too high for the waste pipe, or the tiles sit above the lip of the shower tray, or there is a step into the room from the hallway! What is the thought process to ensure floor height is done correctly please?

With tiling from the bottom of the room up to the top, you start with the cut tiles, and finish with whole tiles to ensure it looks right, again how do you ensure these measurements are correct please, what's the easiest way to do it? If you start from the top and work your way down you'll need battens to support the tiles whilst it dries but you'll know the right size for the cut when you get to the bottom. I'd like to have a go at the way you've done it so any tips would be much appreciated!!!
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Hi, glad it's been interesting.

Floor height: you have to work out the floor build up...height of ply, boards, adhesive, SLC, UFH, tiles, etc. Err on the lower side so you can build up with levelling compound / tile adhesive, rather than risk it finishing higher than the tray. If you measure this properly and understand exactly where your SLC will finish, it shouldn't be possible for the tiles to end up higher.

For the john height, we are all fairly tall so I wanted quite a high pan height. The soil pipes have to be adjusted to suit this with the various configuration options available. Tbh I find WC waste config the hardest part of the whole thing.

Re. finished floor height, it is what it is and if it ends up higher than the adjoining room, my view is this is a small price to pay for a decent bathroom floor.

The wall hung frame gives you a mark to recommend where it should end up above the finished floor, but I normally add 30mm to this as it's designed to accommodate certain groups like youngsters and disabled.

Tiling: I started at the bottom and measured off a laser line, to avoid having to screw battens to the wall. The top row is not a full tile actually but it's close. I followed the method recommended by someone called "bespoke bloke" on YouTube.

Hope this helps somewhat, happy to try and answer any further questions although I don't want to portray myself as an expert.
 
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explicit4u said:
I'm sure there's some wide angle trickery going on, but how big is the gap between the sink and shower screen?

And when you do get the courage to test the ufh i'd be interested in how you find it as im debating adding it to our future remodel.
Click to expand...
I've tested the UFH today and- thank god - everything is working well and imo, UFH is wonderful and a no brainer for a new modern bathroom. Had it in a previous house and I wouldn't think twice about spec'ing it when the floor is tile.
 
Participant said:
So I noticed that the flow wasn't as good in the ensuite as in our main bathroom, despite both being the same setup i.e. combi-fed showers. I did some looking around and noticed a label on top of the Grohe rain head that said 9.5L/min...wtaf??

These companies (or their governments) are deciding that they need to impair your showering experience with built in flow restrictors.

Some butchery with pliers and a screw later and the flow is MUCH better! The culprits:

sMxEBou.jpeg


One of them might be a debris filter, but if the handset gets blocked one day I'll just replace it.



Hi, glad it's been interesting.

Floor height: you have to work out the floor build up...height of ply, boards, adhesive, SLC, UFH, tiles, etc. Err on the lower side so you can build up with levelling compound / tile adhesive, rather than risk it finishing higher than the tray. If you measure this properly and understand exactly where your SLC will finish, it shouldn't be possible for the tiles to end up higher.

For the john height, we are all fairly tall so I wanted quite a high pan height. The soil pipes have to be adjusted to suit this with the various configuration options available. Tbh I find WC waste config the hardest part of the whole thing.

Re. finished floor height, it is what it is and if it ends up higher than the adjoining room, my view is this is a small price to pay for a decent bathroom floor.

The wall hung frame gives you a mark to recommend where it should end up above the finished floor, but I normally add 30mm to this as it's designed to accommodate certain groups like youngsters and disabled.

Tiling: I started at the bottom and measured off a laser line, to avoid having to screw battens to the wall. The top row is not a full tile actually but it's close. I followed the method recommended by someone called "bespoke bloke" on YouTube.

Hope this helps somewhat, happy to try and answer any further questions although I don't want to portray myself as an expert.
Click to expand...
Thanks a lot, it's really useful. What thickness SLC do you need as a minimum to cover the UFH, if the mat is like 5mm thick are you thinking of putting down 8mm of SLC so it is properly covered? I guess in my head I'll be worried that once you've done that, then put tiles down, you could end up with a small step to get into the bathroom from the hallway? Or is it really not that big a deal! I'll check out bespoke bloke cheers!
 
Jimmyrn85 said:
Thanks a lot, it's really useful. What thickness SLC do you need as a minimum to cover the UFH, if the mat is like 5mm thick are you thinking of putting down 8mm of SLC so it is properly covered? I guess in my head I'll be worried that once you've done that, then put tiles down, you could end up with a small step to get into the bathroom from the hallway? Or is it really not that big a deal! I'll check out bespoke bloke cheers!
Click to expand...

In my case I used the bare minimum SLC to protect / cover the UFH cables and achieve level, which was 5mm. You can see the cables still in some areas in the photos. This is fine as if you're careful, you can trowel tile adhesive directly onto UFH mat anyway.

A small step wouldn't worry me at all, but if it's an issue then you can do things like use 6mm insulating boards instead of 10mm.
 
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