Random 3D printing chatter

To hopefully be on the safe side, I put mine in LAN mode the other day.
I use Orca and I don't want to jump through extra hoops.

We'll see what happens when this stops being an 'optional beta'.
 
Uncle Petey said:
To hopefully be on the safe side, I put mine in LAN mode the other day.
I use Orca and I don't want to jump through extra hoops.

We'll see what happens when this stops being an 'optional beta'.
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Yeah I did the same the other day. Only issue I've had is that on a restart Orca needs to add the printer via the access code again. But I'll live with that until the dust settles.
 
q9XjIzH.jpeg


Printed and installed this riser to my K1C, re-routed the PTFE tube and printed clips to keep it attached to the link snake, but without running through it, and finally printed a nut to allow a proper fitting to be installed on my filament drier.

Do all printers end up slightly modded? I feel all of these were needed to improve overall experience!

Can't take credit for any of these prints though, all found through Printables.

Creality K1 / K1C Unibody Riser Frame by BlenderRender | Download free STL model | Printables.com

This is a riser for the Creality K1 and K1C. It blends in perfectly with the Creality unibody frame design. | Download free 3D printable STL models
www.printables.com www.printables.com

K1 / K1 Max Bowden Clip by ThuWe | Download free STL model | Printables.com

Noch ein Bowden Clip für den K1 / K1 Max | Download free 3D printable STL models
www.printables.com www.printables.com

Creality filament dryer ptfe nut by death4u | Download free STL model | Printables.com

This is a nut to install a m6 ptfe fitting on a Crealitly filament dryer. The Fusion 360 file is included. | Download free 3D printable STL models
www.printables.com www.printables.com
 
PermaChanged said:
Do all printers end up slightly modded?
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Pretty much, yeah. The difference is in how much. You start lower down the chain (or older stuff) and you're making mods to the fundamentals of making it actually work rather than tweaking it to your requirements. The Ender 5 Pro, for example, needed an extruder that didn't just chew the filamt, a better hot end, less obnoxious fans, a control board that didn't mis-shape your prints (not fast enough so steppy), a bed that didn't suck and fan control that wasn't implemented by a psychopath. The X1C just needed more light and a plate that didn't require faffing about with glue constantly. It could do with a riser as well, to be fair....I just never got round to it.
 
You don’t really need to ‘mod’ a Bambu printer, they work fine out of the box.

I’ve printed a few accessories like something to catch the waste and a few desiccant baskets but that’s about it.

It will need hardened nozzles and extruder parts if you want to do certain filaments which are abrasive but that’s it.

I wouldn’t count build plates as a mod as they are functionally different (smooth textured patterned etc.)
 
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I suppose these weren't required mods, but anything to improve user experience is worthwhile in my view - printed perfectly out of the box but having more gentle curves within the PTFE/Bowden tube can't be a bad thing, which all of these mods help with.
 
PermaChanged said:
I suppose these weren't required mods, but anything to improve user experience is worthwhile in my view - printed perfectly out of the box but having more gentle curves within the PTFE/Bowden tube can't be a bad thing, which all of these mods help with.
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Isn't the top cover somewhat needed though.?
I had seen a couple of reviews that suggested that if not done the cover can get hit or even or pushed off when in use.
 
Not really no. The PTFE tube may rub on the glass which can wear it over thousands of hours. You can fiddle with the clips or add an extra one if it’s rubbing and it will stop.
 
Thanks, that's different to what was suggested in the reviews noted.
As for the Bambu printers, perhaps enclosing the AMS lite could be a good thing, depending on the filaments used.
 
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I’ve got a P1S and full AMS so I don’t have that issue.

It does take a fair amount of time for the likes of PETG to absorb a material amount of moisture but it’s very much a case of ‘your milage may vary’ depending on the conditions where your printer is.
 
I never realised I should be sharpening my feet before today, thanks :D

I've got a dremel with sanding tips, on low speed are they 'safe enough' for prints or should I get something gentler?
 
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Rob_B said:
I never realised I should be sharpening my feet before today, thanks :D

I've got a dremel with sanding tips, on low speed are they 'safe enough' for prints or should I get something gentler?
Click to expand...

Probably obvious one, but still felt the need to note it.....Don't forget to wear suitable face coverings when doing such things :)
 
Rob_B said:
I never realised I should be sharpening my feet before today, thanks :D

I've got a dremel with sanding tips, on low speed are they 'safe enough' for prints or should I get something gentler?
Click to expand...

I also use a proper Dremel too but you have to be careful even on low speed it can still be quite fast. I bought a cheap mini rotary tool from aliexpress that's just USB powered that I use on smaller details, you can turn the speed all the way down with that.

For sanding tools I use a Dewalt 18v orbital for large areas, the linked above foot sanding tool and a dremel for medium areas, converted electric tooth mentioned above along with a cheap usb powered mini rotary tool for small areas. Also find small files and a deburring tool useful.

Another tip is wet sand especially if you're at risk of melting PLA, also keeps the dust down (wear a mask).
 
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