Soldato
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Nope, point being is that it's off topic as you yourself clearly mentioned
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NVIDIA RTX 50 SERIES - Technical/General Discussion
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CPU-Z Validator will now warn about GeForce RTX 50 cards with missing ROPs - VideoCardz.com
CPU-Z ready for NVIDIA RTX 50 ROP-Gate Not just GPU-Z. There’s no mistake; the CPU-Z software can also provide basic information on the graphics card adapter. It is not as sophisticated as GPU-Z, which is dedicated software for GPUs. However, those looking for an easy all-in-one solution that...
videocardz.com
Actually it's performance effecting the 5090 so it's on topicNope, point being is that it's off topic as you yourself clearly mentioned
guys will a 4090 power cable work with a 5090?
So i have a colour coordinated cable that I used for the 4090, from the PSU that has 4 connections to the 12VHPWR 4090 connector
The 5090 also has a 12VHPWR but the original 5090 power cable has 8 solid pins in 8 hole connector whilst the aftermarket one I have has 6 pins in the 8 holes, so 2 are empty
does that make sense? so it seems my aftermarket cable is missing 2 pins or 2 contact points from the 4x8 pin headers or it looks like its 4x6 pins
Am I confusing the situation here?
So i have a colour coordinated cable that I used for the 4090, from the PSU that has 4 connections to the 12VHPWR 4090 connector
The 5090 also has a 12VHPWR but the original 5090 power cable has 8 solid pins in 8 hole connector whilst the aftermarket one I have has 6 pins in the 8 holes, so 2 are empty
does that make sense? so it seems my aftermarket cable is missing 2 pins or 2 contact points from the 4x8 pin headers or it looks like its 4x6 pins
Am I confusing the situation here?
You should get a new adaptor with a 5090 - use that.
Or, use whatever native 12v cable comes with your new ATX 3.1 PSU.
i havnt bought my new PSU yet so Ive used the original adaptor, i think the 4090 power cable only works with the 4090 as it doesn't match the 5090 pin lay out
That’s good to know, installed it today but didn’t have time to even switch it on before I had to pop out, so probably be tomorrow now. Have to say it’s a neat looking little card and doesn’t weigh much either.
My only issue now is I’m unsure if my psu cables are ok. It’s a Corsair RMX Shift ATX 3.0 and the cable I was using with my old 4070 was the dual 8 pin to 12 one, would this be ok or would I need a new cable? The adapter that came with the card is 12 pin that splits into 3.
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I'm assuming in the case of the PSU it's the 12 pin card that splits into 2? So that'll be how the PSU directly provides enough power to the cable to hit the 600w max that can run through it. My Silverstone LX1000 was the same, it ran off of 2x8pins to provide enough of the power for the cable/card. Just each PSU has a different delivery method so wouldn't worry about that.
Shouldn't be an issue plus the 5080 will likely peak around 350w in any case.
Yeah that’s it 12 pin from the card to 2-8 pin on the psu side. Everything I’ve read said it’s how Corsair psu do the power delivery and will be fine, but with everything that’s gone on, I was starting to doubt it was correct.I'm assuming in the case of the PSU it's the 12 pin card that splits into 2? So that'll be how the PSU directly provides enough power to the cable to hit the 600w max that can run through it. My Silverstone LX1000 was the same, it ran off of 2x8pins to provide enough of the power for the cable/card. Just each PSU has a different delivery method so wouldn't worry about that.
Shouldn't be an issue plus the 5080 will likely peak around 350w in any case.
Associate
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I been finding my 5090 FE pretty good, but one annoying thing about it is that when idle and you are web browsering etc.., basically not gaming, if the room is warm as the sun been hitting it for a few days and the fans keep ramping up to cool the card down then switches them off, then around 10mins or so, its repeat it all again.
The cooler is good as long as it’s got the fans spinning, but as soon as they stop there is not enough metal to dump the heat into before it hits over 50c for the fans to ramp up.
So far, the 5090 is good, but the drivers are trash, I am getting micro stutters on my 77” Samsung 95D that I play on downstairs, my 4090 had none at all, opened a thread on Nvidia forum as there are many with the same problem, so trying to get this fixed.
I would say overall the 4090 is more solid, the 5090 just feels a bit rough at the moment, but I know the 4090 was like that a little, just not as bad as this what I remember.
The cooler is good as long as it’s got the fans spinning, but as soon as they stop there is not enough metal to dump the heat into before it hits over 50c for the fans to ramp up.
So far, the 5090 is good, but the drivers are trash, I am getting micro stutters on my 77” Samsung 95D that I play on downstairs, my 4090 had none at all, opened a thread on Nvidia forum as there are many with the same problem, so trying to get this fixed.
I would say overall the 4090 is more solid, the 5090 just feels a bit rough at the moment, but I know the 4090 was like that a little, just not as bad as this what I remember.
Yeah you'll be good mate, no need to worry about it.
Yeah the 5090 FE cooler is really small, I would worry about temps in my closed case, especially in Summer when my room gets really warm.
Have you tried setting a custom fan profile using a tool like MSI Afterburner? It may help to avoid those fan spikes as you can keep the fan running at a minimum level to avoid those big dips.
Not surprising. It's barely much faster as it is.
You'd need far, far more metal to keep a heat generating component under 50c.
It's not so much the amount of metal because eventually it will reach equilibrium, it's probably being caused by not having enough passive airflow like a nearby case fan gently blowing air in its direction. You probably wouldn't need much in the way of airflow directed at the GPU to keep it under 50c when idle/doing light tasks, something like a 120mm spinning at 800rpm nearby would probably be enough to keep it under 50c in light workloads/idle.
Soldato
- Joined
- 30 Nov 2011
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- 11,528
Just a tip for anyone overclocking 5080, I was having an issue with my card clocking down to like 2200 and then when I applied my previously working +450 OC it would still only be like 2700mhz.
Turns out the latest driver led to my stock and OC clocks being higher than previous, so the +450 that I'd tested as 3125 was locking up causing the card to go in to failsafe and I just wasn't noticing as it was applied on boot.
I'm now at +390 which is 3187mhz @ 1015mv. +2000 on mem. Mid 50'sC at 50% fan.
Turns out the latest driver led to my stock and OC clocks being higher than previous, so the +450 that I'd tested as 3125 was locking up causing the card to go in to failsafe and I just wasn't noticing as it was applied on boot.
I'm now at +390 which is 3187mhz @ 1015mv. +2000 on mem. Mid 50'sC at 50% fan.
Soldato
- Joined
- 30 Nov 2011
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Usage isn't the same as required, people showed the same with a 3090 using 20gb+ in some games, yet I was still able to play those same games on a 3080 10gb at like 10-20% less FPS.Urf...
Check out that vram use.. when I bought it I was like "I'm never gonna need 32gb but...." then a wild Monster Hunter appeared. Jesus.
Even monster hunter wilds still runs on a 3080, even at 4k, yes it's less than half the FPS of a 5090 but its obviously not requiring 30gb to run.
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