Road Cycling

You know when you see those vids on insta and the like and they have HR and power wattage displayed on screen? What do you need for that? Presume it is reading from the bikes head unit?
garmin used to do that with their software for action cameras.. you could overlay gps etc data.

back when I was cool and used to commute, I used to overlay data too

 
You're still cool :cool:

Been doing some research, seems it's those Insta 360 cameras. Way too expensive for me to buy one and use once. Although go pros are now compatible with Garmin touchscreen devices.
 
Think your toe will have healed by then!? ;)

Seriously, get it looked at if still painful. My fractured finger really wasn't hurting after a week, but was all strapped up to support it. It ached/hurt more 4-5 weeks later when it was unwrapped and had to use it more. But was mostly just itchy as it healed when the swelling went down and then tired from being lazy for so long...

Hope the house build/excitement is still progressing... Just slower than expected but that kinda thing always is! Hope you've built some time contingencies in! Add more!

You're in the wrong place for sympathy. I had -3 on my commute this morning so full winter kit and now just considering what to wear for the 16 degrees commute home!

It's definitely getting better, weirdly still swollen which seems a bit odd for ~3.5 weeks, i guess fluid will always flow down though so it makes some sense. Not helped that i threw away my desk chair around a week before i did it with the focus of using my standing desk for standing more! It's generally ok and will have another go on the bike tonight. It's just that fine line between expected pain from returning to movement and "something is wrong" pain that you have to navigate. Due to issues with my other foot i'm probably being overly cautious.

House is going. Expectation is October but there's no rush. Our rental is decent and we can stay as long as needed (as long as the landlord doesn't change her mind as we're only on a monthly contract!)

I demand sympathy. The swimming pool is almost overflowing from all the rain!
 
Well I've managed to snap myself out of last years blues and no longer feeling sorry for myself.


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Just purchased a new chain

Hoping this is the right one that will fit ok . Without having to remove any links


This should give me an opportunity to give my cassette a good clean before the new chain is fitted .


I have a Shimano Sora 9 speed and my bike is a 2014 giant defy 1 composite medium frame
 
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Just purchased a new chain

Hoping this is the right one that will fit ok . Without having to remove any links

Did you count the number of links on your current chain? You will almost certainly have to break the chain to make it the right size. Chain sizings are weird so there is no real rule about "frame size === chain length". It obviously depends on cassette size, chainring size but also distance between your bottom bracket and rear axle. Basically, count the links on your current chain or google what method you should use to size the new chain.

If you're sure the old chain is the right length then just count the links. If you're not 100% sure then find out how to work out the length of chain you need (on my 12 speed its done by putting the chain over the biggest chainrings at the front and back and then when they meet you add a certain number of links depending where the two ends meet). Don't use the new chain to do this though because you have to open it first.

I tend to just buy 126 link chains because then I never have to worry about it being too short and its not much more expensive.
 
You're still cool :cool:

Been doing some research, seems it's those Insta 360 cameras. Way too expensive for me to buy one and use once. Although go pros are now compatible with Garmin touchscreen devices.
ah yea, they're cool but big money! I'd probably buy an older gen one and just use that.
 
apparently 116 link chains are suited to bikes for 9 speed

I have no idea how to remove links, i know how to use the quick link thats about it, i also dont have specialist tools to remove links from a chain

So to get the size right, i just count the links on my current chain, count all links including the chain link? then on the new chain, i need to have the same number of links (including the chain link) if the new chain has more links, i have to remove some by somehow removing the pin from the link?


is there any house hold items/tools i can use to remove a pin? or do i need a specialist tool?
 
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Not really. Just get a chain splitter. Doesn't have to be a fancy Park Tools on. But any bike shop will sell them. I dare say if you're nice and maybe buy something little, they'd split it for you if you know where.
 
apparently 116 link chains are suited to bikes for 9 speed

I have no idea how to remove links, i know how to use the quick link thats about it, i also dont have specialist tools to remove links from a chain

So to get the size right, i just count the links on my current chain, count all links including the chain link? then on the new chain, i need to have the same number of links (including the chain link) if the new chain has more links, i have to remove some by somehow removing the pin from the link?


is there any house hold items/tools i can use to remove a pin? or do i need a specialist tool?

No, you need a chain splitter tool. They are pretty cheap and useful to have honestly.

And yes, you basically need to count the links on the old chain and replicate that on the new one. You can't usually just hold them up against each other as the old chain will have "stretched" so not really line up with the new ones links nicely.
 
Getting this weird urge to go for a ride outdoors in the sunshine. :eek:

Only happened two other times this year since last October.
 
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Getting this weird urge to go for a ride outdoors in the sunshine. :eek:

Only happened two other times this year since last October.

Is that a weird urge? I always have the urge to sack off work and go for a ride when the weather is nice.
 
Getting this weird urge to go for a ride outdoors in the sunshine. :eek:

Only happened two other times this year since last October.

I did just that.. yesterday at lunch and today, weather is lovely. - video in activity


 
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Ok so it's been about 2 hours. I got shifting but it's still not 100 indexed right and I don't know why

Im going to leave it tonight. I might get my mate to try and index it. The barrel adjuster and the H and L screws iv messed about with. It seems to be ring on the largest chain ring .one or two gears making a skipping noise . But if i change the the lower chain ring in the middle and then go through the back gears. My chain is rubbing against a metal guide thing
Great, you're nearly there! Well done! It's really a steep learning curve at the start, much of it is finding a technique which works for you and the process which you find 'makes sense'. The limit screws are best avoided - at least until changing cassette or wheel, but it's too late for that now (why I said about setting them without the cable involved - that's just my way of setting them once & then mostly forgetting they're there). The barrel adjuster is your indexing for those couple of skipping gears - viewing from the rear you should be able to tell which 'side' the chain is rubbing on the cassette making the noise (you'll see it rub, or even 'jump' to try and change, then fall back). With indexing you're basically moving the derailleur arm miniscule amounts to stop that rubbing (use quarter turns!)... But also not too much that when it is time to move, it moves the right amount for the chain to change cogs. Quite a lot of the time you may end up 'pushing the problem' to other gears... At this point that's fine - try and push the problem to the end of the cassette you use less (higher gears?).

If your hanger is slightly bent (more than likely) you'll never be able to get indexing 'perfect'.
If your chain/cassette/chainrings are worn it'll never be 'perfect'.
If you've messed with limit screws unlikely it'll be 'perfect'.
If your front derailleur angle has changed/been knocked it will not be 'perfect'.
So what I'm basically saying, at this point don't chase perfection! That can come in time as you gain the skills and tecnique - along with new parts and any time your bike goes into a workshop for something, always see if they can 'spare 5 mins' to check the indexing while you're there so you can see how they do it (with you there it will be a quick check and likely they won't even charge time for it).

I found usually making my 'easiest' gears in my lower chainring rub a little was ok, or my absolute highest gears in big chainring. I used them infrequently enough that having noise when I did - for easier indexing and good gears for the rest of the time, I was happy. As I upgraded and got better with maintenance it got better and better, easier and easier to index.

Sure it's a Giant Defy 1 2014 with the Sora setup? Probably a Defy 2 or 3 - the Defy 1 would have come with 2x10 drivechain as was 105 level (with probably Tektro brakes and non-series shimano R565 cranks). My 2015 Defy 1 came with the same brakes (and the FSA gossamer cranks they used) with the switch from 10 to 11 speed 105. Pretty superfluous at this point - the Deore 9 speed chain will work with any of Shimanos 9 speed groupsets (that era Sora, Deore and Tiagra overlap a lot).

Your shifters look like the Tiagra 4501 with the side entry cable - https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/gear-shifters/shimano-tiagra-st4501-9-speed-double-road-sti-levers/ ? Which probably means your Rear Derailleur is the 4500?

 
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Great, you're nearly there! Well done! It's really a steep learning curve at the start, much of it is finding a technique which works for you and the process which you find 'makes sense'. The limit screws are best avoided - at least until changing cassette or wheel, but it's too late for that now (why I said about setting them without the cable involved - that's just my way of setting them once & then mostly forgetting they're there). The barrel adjuster is your indexing for those couple of skipping gears - viewing from the rear you should be able to tell which 'side' the chain is rubbing on the cassette making the noise (you'll see it rub, or even 'jump' to try and change, then fall back). With indexing you're basically moving the derailleur arm miniscule amounts to stop that rubbing (use quarter turns!)... But also not too much that when it is time to move, it moves the right amount for the chain to change cogs. Quite a lot of the time you may end up 'pushing the problem' to other gears... At this point that's fine - try and push the problem to the end of the cassette you use less (higher gears?).

If your hanger is slightly bent (more than likely) you'll never be able to get indexing 'perfect'.
If your chain/cassette/chainrings are worn it'll never be 'perfect'.
If you've messed with limit screws unlikely it'll be 'perfect'.
If your front derailleur angle has changed/been knocked it will not be 'perfect'.
So what I'm basically saying, at this point don't chase perfection! That can come in time as you gain the skills and tecnique - along with new parts and any time your bike goes into a workshop for something, always see if they can 'spare 5 mins' to check the indexing while you're there so you can see how they do it (with you there it will be a quick check and likely they won't even charge time for it).

I found usually making my 'easiest' gears in my lower chainring rub a little was ok, or my absolute highest gears in big chainring. I used them infrequently enough that having noise when I did - for easier indexing and good gears for the rest of the time, I was happy. As I upgraded and got better with maintenance it got better and better, easier and easier to index.

Sure it's a Giant Defy 1 2014 with the Sora setup? Probably a Defy 2 or 3 - the Defy 1 would have come with 2x10 drivechain as was 105 level (with probably Tektro brakes and non-series shimano R565 cranks). My 2015 Defy 1 came with the same brakes (and the FSA gossamer cranks they used) with the switch from 10 to 11 speed 105. Pretty superfluous at this point - the Deore 9 speed chain will work with any of Shimanos 9 speed groupsets (that era Sora, Deore and Tiagra overlap a lot).

Your shifters look like the Tiagra 4501 with the side entry cable - https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/gear-shifters/shimano-tiagra-st4501-9-speed-double-road-sti-levers/ ? Which probably means your Rear Derailleur is the 4500?




Yeh its almost there, just getting a few skips here and there, ill try and sort

this is my bike, i got black bar tape though

 
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Thanks. Ordered at that price, screw paying £30 on something Silca to try out and then being disappointed! ;)

Haha yeah 'soured sheep slurry' doesn't sound that appealing.

it smells like lanolin which is a sheep oil thing.. probably based on that, used loads in rust etc prevention on cars.
 
I think my current bike has 109 links in the chain ( counting the pins excluding the one chain link bit)

So the 116 I oredered will be too long and I'll have to shorten them ..is it a good idea when new chain arrives to lay it and put it side by side to old chain
 
I think my current bike has 109 links in the chain ( counting the pins excluding the one chain link bit)

So the 116 I oredered will be too long and I'll have to shorten them ..is it a good idea when new chain arrives to lay it and put it side by side to old chain
yea fine to do.

Also, is that a sran cassette ? Or just lock nut. They’re usually “different” teeth design on some that may cause issues with shifting. But I guess if you didn’t have issues before then it’s not that.
 
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