Road Cycling

[DJMK4]

Im going to give the gear shifting cable attempt myself, if i cant do it, a friend will do it, if i cant do it, or my friend is not available, ill try a bike shop


I paid £6 for a shimano gear shift cable set which should be arriving soon, just need to try feed it from the front shifters to the rear of the bke and see if i can connect it through the barrel adjuster on to the derailure and tighten the cable so it lines up with the first gear then index


How hard can it be? i will fluff it up maybe


Also

with regards to the casette, i will give it another clean without taking it off, ill buy a toilet brush or washing up brush from the supermarket However, i will at some stage need to remove it properly as it needs a good serious clean.


Although im hoping the washing up brush or toilet brush with degreser can get dip in to the cogs to give it a nice clean. We will see , these brushes have some long bristles which should help

 

[Roady]

Yeh iv ordered it. Pretty sure I got decent cutters on a network crimp tool or a pair of snips in the loft

Indexing is understandable but as the cable was freyed I was having issues with the barrel adjuster, then I started messing with the H and L limit screws. Then it went downhill from there

I've got a 'dink' in my network tool from trying to cut some wire, so be cautious! They're only made with cutting copper which is nowhere near as hard as steel...!

A beefy pair of 'DIY' pliers will be better, also cheaper and less of an issue if they get damaged. Hell I've even used fence pliers to cut some before now!

Tips if needed: As you've messed with your limit screws... Before you put the wire in, move the derailleur with your hands (while pedalling the bike), set the 'limit' screws without any tension on the derailleur. They are true to name, they limit the distance the derailleur can move to stop it 'over' or 'under' shifting. Check it with both chainrings. The 'lower' (L) stops the chain coming off the inside. The 'higher' (H) or (T) stops it shifting off the top/high end of the cassette.

Unscrew the barrel adjuster from the derailleur and clean it out then reassemble with a little grease. It's usually a plastic sleeve over a metal screwed body. There is a little spring, don't lose it! Reassemble it but 'undo' it a couple of turns, so when you refit your gear cable you can adjust it either way to index.

Pro-tip (took me far too long to figure this out!) - when indexing and turning that adjuster, you're moving the derailleur 'inboard' and 'outboard'. When looking down at it, or viewing from the rear. Screwing it towards the wheel moves your derailleur inwards. Screwing it away moves it away...

Rear derailleur is 'outwards' sprung, so it is gear tension (shortening of the cable) which moves it inwards to easier/lower gears - the derailleur spring pulling against the cable. Front derailleur is 'inwards' sprung, so the opposite, the cable tension pulls it to the biggest chainring.

Haha long list of quick tips there...

How hard can it be? i will fluff it up maybe

Not hard, just tell yourself it's a 'simple system', as it really is! But it can drive you insane... All a learning curve and what my tips above are aimed at, to help you learn!

If the cable doesn't feed through the existing outers there's a bend or more likely the ends can get 'gunk' in them, or water ingres makes the ends rust a bit. Typical shimano outer is a plastic sleeve, wrapped by steel (cable/wrap) which is wrapped in plastic. Then a plastic 'cap' on the end with a hole in it (you'll get some in that kit, they just slide on the end). So use a process of elimination for your 'wear areas' the cable may need some help getting through - any which feel tight just replace it. You have replacement outers in that Shimano kit (might not be enough for a complete run - but you don't need it, your cable is exposed on your chainstay - so possibly on your downtube too). As you're new to it, cut them the same length as any you remove and you won't go far wrong! Only awkward ones are those wrapped by your bar tape, as they also route into your shifters (doing anyting with them will need to re-wrap/replace your tape.

The outers you have with that set are 'gear' ones. They are different to brake ones, slightly narrower and wrapped differently. Gear outers are 'compression-less' as they have to withstand tension of the brake cable being pulled, so tend to be thicker.

 

[DJMK4]

I was trying to do the limit screws before, but when i was adjusting the "H" and "L" screw, i didnt feel the derailure hanger was moving,

When i get the new cable, ill give a try


Whats the best way to do it? fit the cable at the shifter end, then route it down to the derailure end, shift the gear leaver to what would be the "top" or "highest" gear (the biggest sproket) then try and route the cable through the barrel adjuster and on to the cable hex screw, holding the derailure at the centre of the top cog ? then feed the cable in to the screw, keep it as tight as possible so it holds the derailure hanger in to place at the top cog and screw the cable in, thus hopefully then being able to let go of the hanger and it should stay at the hghest gear at the top?

 

[fez]

I was trying to do the limit screws before, but when i was adjusting the "H" and "L" screw, i didnt feel the derailure hanger was moving,

It shouldn't move. The H and L are the end ranges ie. it stops it from going too far up or down the cassette and falling off into your wheel or frame. The b-limit screw adjusts the vertical distance between the cassette and the top jockey wheel. The actual adjustment of where the chain will want to fall/align with as you shift through the gears is handled by the barrel adjuster on the rear mech where the cable comes into the rear mech.

As to indexing the gears. I would suggest having a look at some youtube videos.

 

[Roady]

Hanger won't move, that's just the 'throw' of the derailleur arm - how far it is 'allowed' to go each way. With the cable there tension will feel and operate very differently, so better to set your limits without the cable (with the wheel clamped in the frame - Quick Release will bend the frame slightly so can push out your indexing and limits).

No need buying a toilet brush, go for a stuff bristled paintbrush - you might even have one already. My cassettes riding all weathers with wet lube get so filthy I don't clean with a brush... Knowing I'll be scrubbing it with a rag afterwards, so just go straight for that.

These are good, they come in various sets/brands. Have a good arm for getting gunk out from between cassette and handy plastic long bristles. There's a good set here, the little brush is stiff bristled so good for scrubbing cassette. The bigger brush is quite soft - don't use that on a dirty oily chain... Took me ages to get mine clean again!

As fez says, for indexing look at some videos. It's a process and a knack, I'd solve everything else first, indexing is the last job. Several ways to get that initial tension which you generally start in your highest gear (smallest cog), then once you've indexed a couple the rest should just line up... STI - the cable is moved a set distance which corresponds with the cassette teeth.

 

[Roady]

Man, I forgot how good Calvin is that this stuff. Was going to link the GCN one, but the PT one has by far better diagrams/actual of it. A better learning tool!

 

[grudas]

Look great & glad you're enjoying it!

Really the Argon 18 Gallium CS reads like an endurance race bike, the 9.2 is an 'allroad' so not surprising it works well for good trails like that! Hearing more and more about 40mm tyres on the road being great. Biggest I've done where 32mm and they where quite heavy and felt 'boaty', but that might also have been the wheels. They where wide road wheels, but 'older' wide at 23mm (when everyone considered 19mm wide). Quite possible more modern wider (27mm+) rims designed for gravel or allroad they would fit and sit better.


Torx? Thought they where allen (hex). Not the first time have heard of a Boardman with something loose which shouldn't have been!

You've probably not done the mileage to wear 1 pad more than the other from poor alighment but worth checking...

thanks, I don't know where the endurance part comes from in the argon18 but it's so far away from it, it's not even funny. It's very aggressive - I compared with canyon etc and it's always top of chart haha. It does ride nice.

torx yeah, t25 to be precise, seems to be the norm with fork -> adapter for caliper bolt, both argon and boardman have the same. I had a similar issue with argon, brake disc was loose and so was the fork, even after sigmasport "built" it. Boardman was unbuilt out the box, I just didn't check that bolt I guess.

 

[SoliD]

so, in the end I went and got my self an adventure spec bike. Went with boardman adv 9.2. Was looking into canyon grail etc but for my money and size they only had the 2x grouppo in stock. I wanted :

40c + tire clearance
Relaxed geometry
1x grouppo ideally sram as I’ve got rival on my other bike and can swap batteries etc
Interesting colour

Is what I settled on : https://www.boardmanbikes.com/gb_en/products/2400-adv-9.2.html
Took it out for a first ride today, with some Hutchinson Caracal race tires :

CX/Gravel Tire Test: Hutchinson Caracal Race TLR 40

Rolling resistance and puncture resistance review of a Hutchinson Caracal Race TLR 40 cx/gravel bike tire. Also includes detailed weight and size measurements

www.bicyclerollingresistance.com

In 40C and honestly, it rolls so well on road.

First impressions after 40k mixed terrain.

Rolls great on these tires

Comfort is great, honestly it’s shocking how much better it feels compared to my very aggressive argon18.

Grouppo shifts fast and gearing is very good for me. Plenty for climbs and enough for road, can comfortably cruise at 30-40km/h without issues.

Frame has decent amount of flex but also enough stiffness in the right areas

Colour looks great in sun

Cockpit could do with new tape but easily sorted.


All in, I have a strong suspicion that I will rarely touch my other bike now. This is just that much more suited for my riding.

Ride link : https://strava.app.link/feGjKo12KRb

Some pictures:




Geometry comparison between argon and adv 9.2

Compare: 2025 Boardman ADV 9.2 Carbon vs 2022 Argon 18 Gallium CS Disc (INT) Shimano Ultegra – 99 Spokes

The Boardman ADV 9.2 Carbon and Argon 18 Gallium CS Disc (INT) Shimano Ultegra are both carbon frame road bikes with sram apex hydraulic disc brakes. The Gallium CS Disc (INT) Shimano Ultegra has better components and higher gearing.

99spokes.com

All in, I have some regrets in buying my argon. It’s a great bike but just not what I actually wanted.

Good bikes, i'm on my second (moving from 9.0 to 9.4) but going to be selling it soon to get something a bit more towards my mtb than my CX bike!

 

[Trifid]

Linky?

I was going to go for the Silca wet weather one @Shadowness said about, but noticed it's a tiny tube - 59ml! The Super Secret sounded really expensive (it is) but you do get 240ml of it, so must last a lot longer?! You get 4x as much for less than twice the price.

https://www.merlincycles.com/fenwicks-professional-bike-chain-lube-57339.html

Looking at the reviews, I have forgotten about the smell. Must have gotten used to it now.

 

[Martynt74]

Is what I settled on : https://www.boardmanbikes.com/gb_en/products/2400-adv-9.2.html
Took it out for a first ride today, with some Hutchinson Caracal race tires :

I have these on my road bike and agree, they've been great. Pretty impressive to be included on a bike at that budget given the other specs. Seems a bargain!

 

[Martynt74]

@Junglist Did you go ahead with that Sportive?


Weather here has been miserable for around 3 weeks now, which is kinda nice since i can't ride because of my foot. Tried the indoor bike on Monday night for 10 minutes which caused a bit of pain/discomfort. Might try again today and just keep trying to up it a little. Garmin has officially put me into "Detraining"

 

[baritonejohann]

Good bikes, i'm on my second (moving from 9.0 to 9.4) but going to be selling it soon to get something a bit more towards my mtb than my CX bike!

lovely bit of kit!

 

[Junglist]

@Junglist Did you go ahead with that Sportive?


Weather here has been miserable for around 3 weeks now, which is kinda nice since i can't ride because of my foot. Tried the indoor bike on Monday night for 10 minutes which caused a bit of pain/discomfort. Might try again today and just keep trying to up it a little. Garmin has officially put me into "Detraining"

We didn't. He didn't have the energy and I didn't have the transport.

Bit of a sore topic at the moment.

 

[grudas]

I have these on my road bike and agree, they've been great. Pretty impressive to be included on a bike at that budget given the other specs. Seems a bargain!

it didn't come on them, was on goodyear connector which is no bad tire but I wanted a slick thread in the center so made sense to get a pair of caracals. I do have a pair of new goodyears sitting here

 

[fez]

Went out for a ride yesterday and the weather was beautiful. Only problem is that I dressed like it was prime summer and it was not. 10 degrees and quite windy. My hands went numb quite quickly and my arms were like ice blocks. Every cyclist that I passed had full length bibs, long sleeved tops, windproofs and gloves. Some had neck warmers as well. There I was in some spring bib shorts and a summer top...

Still, weather was nice!

 

[AndyCr15]

Yeah, the weather looks to be taking a nice turn... although I fly to Mallorca this afternoon and I'm hearing it's not all that great over there at the moment! This happened a few years ago. We went over this time of year and it was actually nicer weather in Barnet!

 

[Roady]

https://www.merlincycles.com/fenwicks-professional-bike-chain-lube-57339.html

Looking at the reviews, I have forgotten about the smell. Must have gotten used to it now.

Thanks. Ordered at that price, screw paying £30 on something Silca to try out and then being disappointed!

Haha yeah 'soured sheep slurry' doesn't sound that appealing.

Good price on GP 5000 STR there at the moment too (£54-55) various sizes, 'transparent' sidewalls (they're brown/bronze) and black if anyone needs. Still on the lookout for a Zipp 303 S front wheel to replace the one smacked in my crash last September as I've got a good rear. Actually took the tyres off them at the weekend (GP5000 S TR) with half a thought to put them on my current wheels for summer, but the Vittoria Rubino's where such a pain to get on here and get riding 'ok' that I want more than 1 winter from them without the same hassle again getting them mounted. If I can snag a replacement Zipp for <£350 or even second hand <£250 will be ideal. But they seem to be getting phased out now the XPLR is out and the prices hiked rather than dropped.

Bit of a sore topic at the moment.

Better than a sore toe! There will always be other rides/sportives mate. If I've got any that way will let you know, current thinking is the same 2 from 2024 - so the Ludlow 'Danny Mason Highland Challenge' June 8th - 66 very hilly for £25 well worth it with lots of quality food stops. Probably same 200km audax in september but that's Shrewsbury (self supported and cheap). Hereford one in August I've not done for a few years, but seems expensive (£30) for only 53 miles. Might just do 2 laps! One of the guys I rode with last year is from Bristol and does a lot of audaxs all around this part of the country so expect will be other invites, as they're cheap will do a few but last minute so can be around family and weather... Someone else I've ridden with moved from Shropshire down to Cornwall so might be heading that way. Probably Dartmoor side rather than the slog all the way down to Penzance.

Keep having 'register to get one of the last few places' for the Dragon Ride on my socials I've always said I'll do. Last few years has always been a few names pop up I didn't know about and if I had I might have been more committed and got myself along. This year seems complete silence from various places, maybe that's why there's places left lol

I'm going well this year - have been the last couple, but I've done very little big rides/organised events with the fitness. Roll back before covid I did loads of them with far worse legs!

 

[Martynt74]

Keep having 'register to get one of the last few places' for the Dragon Ride on my socials I've always said I'll do. Last few years has always been a few names pop up I didn't know about and if I had I might have been more committed and got myself along. This year seems complete silence from various places, maybe that's why there's places left lol

I'd consider the 296km version in 2026 if you wanted commitment!

 

[Martynt74]

Yeah, the weather looks to be taking a nice turn... although I fly to Mallorca this afternoon and I'm hearing it's not all that great over there at the moment! This happened a few years ago. We went over this time of year and it was actually nicer weather in Barnet!

Rubbish isn't it. Today is nicer where i am compared to the last few days but i think another storm is meant to hit tomorrow. My swimming pool is almost overflowing!

I think i'm the only person to have house build delays in Spain due to rain!

 

[fez]

Yeah, the weather looks to be taking a nice turn... although I fly to Mallorca this afternoon and I'm hearing it's not all that great over there at the moment! This happened a few years ago. We went over this time of year and it was actually nicer weather in Barnet!

Hey, at least you will be on largely pristine roads without drivers trying to kill you at every turn. I'm sure the weather will be nicer than suggested anyway!