The issue with * marked PS4S is that you can't get the fronts (might be the rears...) in F series M car size, and the non * marked aren't as well suited - there's more of a difference than people realise. The aftermarket version is quite wallowy in comparison.
BMW and M Power Owners
- Thread starter panthro
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1 owner, non hybrid, 26k miles, clean MOT, from AUC, adaptive cruise control and adaptive lights. I feel like this should be around 31k though.. Shadowline in white is so tastless, mirror caps, grill and wheels would have to go..
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usedcars.bmw.co.uk
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BMW 3 Series M340i xDrive Saloon 3.0 4dr
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Soldato
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The PS4S star marked only come with a little over 7mm of tread so you should get more than 10k out of them. Got 35k out a set on my 335d and sold the M340i before tyres were needing replaced but they were looking to go 25k plus.
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1 owner, non hybrid, 26k miles, clean MOT, from AUC, adaptive cruise control and adaptive lights. I feel like this should be around 31k though.. Shadowline in white is so tastless, mirror caps, grill and wheels would have to go..
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BMW 3 Series M340i xDrive Saloon 3.0 4dr
BMW Approved Used cars for sale. 12 month unlimited mileage BMW warranty, roadside assistance and MOT cover. Find your nearest BMW dealer for more info.
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Don’t know about £31k, but it’s defo poverty spec.
No packages what so ever, I’d consider tech pack required at least. Ideally comfort too.
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I assume you mean an E85 by your mention of 3.0Si? I have a 2006 2.5. I'd add to that list to check for valve cover oil leaks, look at the left side and towards the engine bulkhead. It drips down and lands on the CAT and can often cause a smell of oil burning both in the cabin whilst driving and externally.
Check the operation of the handbrake, it should bite after only a couple of clicks on the ratchet mechanism and hold the car solidly still. MoT failure if it doesn't, very common problem as the ratchet wears. I've just had mine replaced with a genuine BMW handbrake mechanism that my local Indy managed to find in stock in Germany, they are hard to find as they aren't made anymore. To fit it, the exhaust needs to come off and the prop shaft needs split and dropped down - cost me £550 a few weeks ago.
Rattly DMF's can be an issue, it'll only do this whilst the engine is warm after being driven but if it does you will definitely hear it. Generally doesn't cause any huge issues other than sounds awful.
There's a good thread here with a checklist of what to look for:-
Brilliant fun cars, I've had mine for a few years and it still makes me grin when I drive it. They can however be a bit of a labour of love but you kinda need to understand that owning an older Z4 can be a bit of a labour of love.
You going for a roadster or coupe?
Thanks for that @Draeger - I'll add those to the list.
It's a good indicator as I can ask those questions to the seller before I take the trip to go see a car.
Yes E85. For an example around 2005, >100k miles -> what would you say is the price I should be aiming for?
It's a good indicator as I can ask those questions to the seller before I take the trip to go see a car.
Yes E85. For an example around 2005, >100k miles -> what would you say is the price I should be aiming for?
The prices for E85's vary greatly, the 3.0Si commanding the highest (apart from the Z4M obviously, although that's a completely different ball game). Don't discount the 2.5Si either, almost as quick performance wise although prices are regularly on a par with the 3.0Si - both Si variants are sought after cars.
The Si's arrived in 2006/2007 with the LCI facelifted Z4's (easy to tell the difference visually, front bumper is different and has narrow oblong front fog lights rather than round fogs, rear lights are different too).
The autos although rare, never had a great reputation (SMG's especially) and to be honest an auto box in a car like this isn't what you want - manual box just enhances the driving experience.
Rust isn't generally a problem but check in the usual places. Top of the rear wings where they meet the surround for the roof is definitely worth checking. Another thing to check is window regulators, if there is any weird window behaviour (not going all the way up or going up then down a little bit again) or a scratching noise coming from the door when the windows are lowered then the regulator is likely on the way out. When they fail they usually do so in the down position and are expensive to repair (although you can save labour costs by doing it yourself but it's a fiddly, time consuming job)
As I said, the prices can vary wildly with these, depending on condition and if anything needs doing to the car to make it perfect. I've seen 3.0Si's go from anything around £3500 up to £10000 for a low mileage immaculate example. For something with 100k miles on it I guess you could be looking at £4500 to £5000 for a good one. But it's very much condition based as well as how well looked after the car has been. Many are owned by genuine enthusiasts and you will know if a potential seller is as such, by the way they talk about the car and the depth of knowledge they may have of it. My LCI 2006 2.5 N52 engined example has just ticked over 174k miles but to look at it you would think it's covered half that as it's been well looked after. I've spent in the last year maybe £2k on it including an alloy refurb and new tyres plus servicing and repairs to various issues that have cropped up. The repairs and when they are needed kinda follow a pattern - couple of years on the trot she will fly through her MoT's and need nothing apart from consumables and services done then one year a reasonably expensive issue will crop up.
Again price wise, values are at their highest at this time of year when folk want a fun, quick and enjoyable roadster to zip around in with the roof down when the suns out. Which brings me to another point - don't be put off by number of previous owners - lots of people buy these cars for the summer then move them on in Autumn/Winter and many people buy them to 'scratch an itch' for a soft top.
The Si's arrived in 2006/2007 with the LCI facelifted Z4's (easy to tell the difference visually, front bumper is different and has narrow oblong front fog lights rather than round fogs, rear lights are different too).
The autos although rare, never had a great reputation (SMG's especially) and to be honest an auto box in a car like this isn't what you want - manual box just enhances the driving experience.
Rust isn't generally a problem but check in the usual places. Top of the rear wings where they meet the surround for the roof is definitely worth checking. Another thing to check is window regulators, if there is any weird window behaviour (not going all the way up or going up then down a little bit again) or a scratching noise coming from the door when the windows are lowered then the regulator is likely on the way out. When they fail they usually do so in the down position and are expensive to repair (although you can save labour costs by doing it yourself but it's a fiddly, time consuming job)
As I said, the prices can vary wildly with these, depending on condition and if anything needs doing to the car to make it perfect. I've seen 3.0Si's go from anything around £3500 up to £10000 for a low mileage immaculate example. For something with 100k miles on it I guess you could be looking at £4500 to £5000 for a good one. But it's very much condition based as well as how well looked after the car has been. Many are owned by genuine enthusiasts and you will know if a potential seller is as such, by the way they talk about the car and the depth of knowledge they may have of it. My LCI 2006 2.5 N52 engined example has just ticked over 174k miles but to look at it you would think it's covered half that as it's been well looked after. I've spent in the last year maybe £2k on it including an alloy refurb and new tyres plus servicing and repairs to various issues that have cropped up. The repairs and when they are needed kinda follow a pattern - couple of years on the trot she will fly through her MoT's and need nothing apart from consumables and services done then one year a reasonably expensive issue will crop up.
Again price wise, values are at their highest at this time of year when folk want a fun, quick and enjoyable roadster to zip around in with the roof down when the suns out. Which brings me to another point - don't be put off by number of previous owners - lots of people buy these cars for the summer then move them on in Autumn/Winter and many people buy them to 'scratch an itch' for a soft top.
Soldato
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I'm not sure they did enough with the drivetrain and weight saving to make it worth the extra £20k over the standard M2.
I do love the ducktail though.
I do love the ducktail though.
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With carbon brakes etc it's over £100k.
Soldato
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Mega money for a 2 series. Absolutely would not be entertaining this over a 911, for example.
I’d have an M2 CS over a base spec 911 every day of the week. By the time you add desirable options on a 911 the price gap becomes quite significant.
I guess, but the Cayman doesn't have rear seats which immediately discounted it for me. 911 also to a certain extent, as they're only usable for children for so many years whereas I can get an adult in the back of my M2.
Soldato
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Each to their own I guess. Just couldn’t spend £100,000 on a BMW.
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Still on the hunt for a nice M140i.
What do you guys think of this one? It's not too far from me but the prices of these seem crazy high.
www.autotrader.co.uk
My cousin had one 6 months old years back with very few miles on it for £22k. They've hardly lost anything!
What do you guys think of this one? It's not too far from me but the prices of these seem crazy high.
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My cousin had one 6 months old years back with very few miles on it for £22k. They've hardly lost anything!
Bah...got my first puncture in the new 420d coup,
Rear right , hex bolt In the middle of the wheel
The car was sold with runflats so now I need to decide if I stick another runflat on there or change the two rear for non runflats. Or do you have to do all 4 corners at the same time.? There was loads of tread left on these pirelli tyres
Size is 255/40 R18
It's leaking air but hoping it gets me in to the office tomorrow
Rear right , hex bolt In the middle of the wheel
The car was sold with runflats so now I need to decide if I stick another runflat on there or change the two rear for non runflats. Or do you have to do all 4 corners at the same time.? There was loads of tread left on these pirelli tyres
Size is 255/40 R18
It's leaking air but hoping it gets me in to the office tomorrow
If I was changing one axle only, and the other had RFT's on it, I'd put RFT's on. But, when I changed my Pirelli Cinturato RFT's to standard Michelin PS5's the ride, noise and handling all improved, especially over potholes and bumps. I needed to replace all 4 anyway. I assume it's 18's you have, and staggered between front and back?
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