Power Tools & General Tools Recommendations & Advice

Which do you use most or find most useful? The 210 has a 65mm depth of cut vs I think 80mm on the 255. The 210 will cut through a two by, but not on a bevel. The 255 will cut through a 3x3 post but not a 4x4.
The smaller one is the one I reach for unless I need the extra depth of cut. My 255 is fairly old one, its quite heavy compared to the small one which is the newer style. I've used them for cutting all sorts, with diamond blade I cut loads of bricks on the 255 as well. You cant go wrong with either really.
 
Odd question but do you *need* 1/2"? They tend to have more kick than a 1/4", are heavier and more powerful and the bits are longer.

I've wrangled with this before and managed with a Bosch 1200W 1/4" and a Makita 700W 1/4" hand router. And that's for a lot of stuff for guitar building and general DIY - if I had the need for 1/2" I'd be tempted to invest in a metal 2400W rutland router table (£800) but that's a different class. The 2200W trend has some comments and it seems for any serious the metal is too soft.
If you are doing something like a worktop then you’ll need 1/2” as 1/4” bits are not long enough.
 
If you are doing something like a worktop then you’ll need 1/2” as 1/4” bits are not long enough.

If it’s solid wood then I’d agree however if the work top is more a lamination of board and foams (more modern work tops) then you don’t need the same beefy router.
 
It’s generally not a power issue, my battery 1/4” router will happily cut hard wood as long as you are realistic with the depth per pass.

it’s more of a thickness issue, 1/4” bits are typically pretty short, often too short for a worktop unless you using a particularly thin material.

As for trend routers, they are a big brand and it’s probably fine.
 
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Thanks for the replies, it’s for table and hand use. Is for use with hydrofugo mdf which is pretty hard on cutters. Also toying with the idea of doing YouTube videos on cabinet making, face frames, angled cottbead frames and so on. Ended up getting the t8 and the trend table plate so I can adjust from above.
 
It’s generally not a power issue, my battery 1/4” router will happily cut hard wood as long as you are realistic with the depth per pass.

it’s more of a thickness issue, 1/4” bits are typically pretty short, often too short for a worktop unless you using a particularly thin material.

As for trend routers, they are a big brand and it’s probably fine.

I can agree with that. I have a guitar mould and jacks I'm working on that are 3.5" deep, made up of 5 layers of 18mm hardwood ply. It's possible todo it with front and back action with bottom bearing bits if the middle layer is used as a template. Just depends on the work you're doing.
 
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The smaller one is the one I reach for unless I need the extra depth of cut. My 255 is fairly old one, its quite heavy compared to the small one which is the newer style. I've used them for cutting all sorts, with diamond blade I cut loads of bricks on the 255 as well. You cant go wrong with either really.
R210SMS-300+ is £135 on Amazon.
R255SMS+ is £166 on Amazon.

For just £30 more Im tempted to go for the bigger one even though its probably overkill for what I will need it for. If the smaller one was £100 I'd have gone for that for sure, just too small a price differential.

I will have to store it in the loft though (no garage and don't want this in my outdoor shed), so will need to be able to carry it up there.

R210SMS-300+ is 13.2kg and R255SMS+ is 15.4kg.
 
Think I'm going to get a makita 40v jigsaw soon. I think I want the larger d shaped grip one instead of the pistol grip one.

What handle do you guys prefer when it comes to jigsaws?
 
Proper D handle for me too.using the other type has always felt wrong in my hands

I've also noticed that, for the makita at least, the on off switch looks crap on the pistol grip one. It doesn't have a trigger squeezing function so it looks faffy.
 
Its easier to cut a straight light with the pistol grip jigsaws as you've got a better hand position.

But I have both :p.
 
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Its easier to cut a straight light with the pistol grip jigsaws as you've got a better hand position.

But I have both :p.
It's easier to cut a straight line with most other types of saw :)

I've got a d handle jigsaw and it typically only gets used when I've something that my compound mitre can't cut.

A new handheld circular saw is next on my list as would be more useful for me personally.
 
I have both Makitas & I always grab the D handle if I need to cut out an odd shape. As for cutting a straight line, compound first and then a circular saw
 
I'm thinking of getting the Evolution R210SMS-300+ mitre saw.

Does anyone have one and can comment on it?
Ive had an Evolution sliding mitre for 7 years and its never let me down. Spend a bit of time with an engineers square to get the base plate, fence and blade square and it's more than capable.

The laser cut indicator is useless but I wouldn't rely on it over the blade kerf anyway!

Also...get the 300mm if you can! Theres plenty I still have to get the track saw out for even with 300mm of sliding mitre!
 
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I've recently moved on from a R210SMS+, it's fine but really depends what you want to do and how accurate you want to be. Personally no matter how many time its was setup, the thing would never conduct repeatable 100% square cuts, the detents on the base plate have too much play imho.

Gone for a Makita LS1110F/2, yes its a different ballpark price wise, but this was setup perfect out of the box, overall quality and feel is a million times better and will repeatedly go back to square after moving the saw.
 
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I've recently moved on from a R210SMS+, it's fine but really depends what you want to do and how accurate you want to be. Personally no matter how many time its was setup, the thing would never conduct repeatable 100% square cuts, the detents on the base plate have too much play imho.

Gone for a Makita LS1110F/2, yes its a different ballpark price wise, but this was setup perfect out of the box, overall quality and feel is a million times better and will repeatedly go back to square after moving the saw.
This makes me question ordering the Evolution to be honest. I’ve been rigidly sticking to Bosch pro for most of my power tools for years now, but took a bit of a gamble with this.

Now considering cancelling the order and spending some more for a Makita
 
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