Road Cycling

Two random questions I'd love a bit of insight on.

First, at what point do you decide to get a new bike? What is it that kicks you over the line of buying a new machine instead of upgrading the current ride?

Both my road and gravel bikes were budget purchases and are running entry level goupsets (Sora and Claris respectively) and I both do and don't want to change them for something new.

Secondly, wind noise! Do I have weird shaped ears or something because people talk about the serenity of riding their bikes in the countryside. For me, as soon as I get a bit of pace up it is like an F16 on full afterburn in both ears! Since changing helmet I get a whistling in my left ear which is to do with the strap position so I can easily sort that but do people wear ear plugs? I've never thought of that being a good idea due to traffic awareness.
 
Depends what you want the new bike to do. Upgrading, for me, is more about marginal gains, but the bike does the same thing. So better wheels, Di2 for better/more reliable shifting etc

If I wanted a new bike, it would be for something notably different. Perhaps a dedicated climbing bike (so no deep sections, much lighter etc).

Or a different discipline - eg gravel.

I guess it also depends at what price point most of the components on the bike are. So if you have a budget Halfords bike, you're not going to slap Di2 or £3k carbon wheels on there! (well you could but you'd be mad too)


As for noise - I've never really had an issue, but I guess this can depend on the helmet, and perhaps shades too? Not sure. Earplugs would be insane......
I use AirPods (in summer), as I don't get the 'you shouldn't ride listening the music' argument. But you still get some wind noise with those too.
 
First, at what point do you decide to get a new bike? What is it that kicks you over the line of buying a new machine instead of upgrading the current ride?

Both my road and gravel bikes were budget purchases and are running entry level goupsets (Sora and Claris respectively) and I both do and don't want to change them for something new.
Initially when I first got into cycling I spent some money upgrading my bike. I had a Wilier Izoard road bike which I bought second hand. I upgraded wheels and groupset over a period. Lighter wheels are nicer especially if you are just building your fitness. I also upgraded he groupset to 11 speed by buying components from Ebay. It's still the bike I have had most fun on and also did most of my Strava PBs on. I rode it for about 3 years before buying a new bike or rather new components to build a new bike. That was a bit of impulse as I saw a clearance deal on a Cannondale Supersix EVO Hi-Mod frame and decided to build around it. That time I bought new components and built it up. It cost me about £2k back in 2016 and it's my only road bike. It still rides better than I do and the only reason to change it would be to get disc brakes but there is no way I can afford the cost of buying an equivalent bike now.

My gravel bike is actually a 2018 Canyon Inflite AL SLX cyclocross bike and its completely as I bought it aside from some wider tyres. It has Sram Rival 1x and all its needed are a cassette, couple of chains, brake pads. It's a great bike and I can't see the value in upgrading it at this moment. It even survived the car impact relatively unscathed.

Upgradeability largely depends on the bike frame. If its a decent one then swapping Sora for 105 makes sense as it's just nicer. Wheels are probably the best bang for buck on an entry level bike but again only if it's a decent frame.

What are the specs of what you ride?
 
Wheels are probably the best bang for buck on an entry level bike but again only if it's a decent frame.

You could buy a nice set of wheels, but these days wheels and tyres are getting wider. So they might not fit. Ideally you could get a decent set of wheels, fit them to your bike, and if you ever upgrade the frame, these new wheels would then work nicely on that new bike.

But not sure if you have a rim brake bike or disc, which again, raises issues. As no point buying a decent set of rim wheels, if you then want to use them in the future on a bike which will likely be disc.
 
Thanks for the advice. To be honest... I'm not really sure what I want! I bought both bikes quite closely to each other and back then I wasn't sure if I was going to get more into cycling or stick with my 10 miles around the villages once a week, so I didn't spend mega money. In fact I picked up end of range bargains, a Pinnacle Dolomite Three with Sora for £455 and a Raleigh Mustang Gravel bike running Claris for £355. The later being primarily as a winter hack, then winter hack + summer gravel and is now just a summer gravel bike.

Ironically they both served me extremely well and I've done many a sportive keeping up with fellow riders on much higher spec machinery without ever feeling like I was at a massive disadvantage. My fitness has gone off a cliff since then but I'm working on getting it back!

The road bike is probably everything I need it to be so until I get the ultimate itch to try a different frame material (carbon or titanium) I'll likely run that as it is. I've upgraded the wheels to Campagnolo Khamsins and always run my bikes with fairly decent tyres (currently Schwalbe Pro One) as that seems to be the biggest win without investing a fortune! I wish I'd tried to squeeze in something bigger than 28mm in hindsight as I do have a bit of clearance to spare.

Ultimately the only thing I really dislike about this bike is the rim brakes. I've upgraded pads etc. but they just feel so weak compared to my other bikes. I don't know just how much of this is the limitation of calliper brakes (I never had an issue with v-brakes) or if it is the budget Tektro R317 57mm deep-drop brakes it has fitted?

The gravel bike is a slightly different story. Firstly, it fits me like a glove. The road bike feels a little stretched out for my middle aged body but the gravel bike is just spot on. The problem is I'm starting to enjoy more mixed riding (60 to 80% road but interlaced with bridleways etc.) and there are a couple of things holding it back. Firstly it has a square taper bottom bracket (easily solved) so I'd have to get a new crankset, which isn't a problem. Something I recently added to the road bike which I'm actually finding mega useful and motivating is a power meter so I would probably add that too. So far so good. But, while I'm at it... should I just do a full groupset upgrade and resolve the top of my spec want wish list and swap the mechanical brakes for hydraulics? At that point I'm then looking to the own brand RSP AD1.0 wheels. I have no idea how these stack up in terms of weight, stiffness or ride quality but I can't imagine they are up to much. I could then also go tubeless. Problem is it is also running quick release and not through axle so I could spend a bit on new wheels and they would only be of use on this one bike. All of a sudden I've spent a lot of money on my £355 bike :p

I'm not in a massive rush to make any decisions but I am at a bit of a cross roads as to which way to go. Replace one, replace both or replace neither and make the current ones a little better.
 
TO be honest I wouldn't throw any money at a Pinnacle Dolomite.
One thing you could consider is saving up for an "all-road". That seems to be the latest trend and even these frames seem to be accommodating up to 40c tyres. That way you might be able to have one bike and say two sets of wheels to do you for both road and gravel. Write a detailed prompt for Chatgpt (other LLM are available) telling it what you like about your bikes, how they fit and what budget you might have. You are riding two entry level bikes that will be heavy, clunky and not easily upgradeable. I'm afraid the industry does like to obsolete it's products but if you buy wisely in the first place you will have something that will last you a long time.
 
Two random questions I'd love a bit of insight on.

First, at what point do you decide to get a new bike? What is it that kicks you over the line of buying a new machine instead of upgrading the current ride?

Both my road and gravel bikes were budget purchases and are running entry level goupsets (Sora and Claris respectively) and I both do and don't want to change them for something new.

Secondly, wind noise! Do I have weird shaped ears or something because people talk about the serenity of riding their bikes in the countryside. For me, as soon as I get a bit of pace up it is like an F16 on full afterburn in both ears! Since changing helmet I get a whistling in my left ear which is to do with the strap position so I can easily sort that but do people wear ear plugs? I've never thought of that being a good idea due to traffic awareness.



I got my new bike this year for the following reasons:
  • I hit a ambitious performance goal and wanted to reward myself (main catalyst)
  • I was getting more and more concerned about the performance of rim brakes as I got faster
  • I had a cycling holiday booked
  • A mate built a bike last year and it gave me the confidence to do the same knowing I could draw on his knowledge
  • Building a bike meant I could remove the compromises and spread the cost over a few months
  • I wanted a new bike
 
TO be honest I wouldn't throw any money at a Pinnacle Dolomite.
One thing you could consider is saving up for an "all-road". That seems to be the latest trend and even these frames seem to be accommodating up to 40c tyres. That way you might be able to have one bike and say two sets of wheels to do you for both road and gravel. Write a detailed prompt for Chatgpt (other LLM are available) telling it what you like about your bikes, how they fit and what budget you might have. You are riding two entry level bikes that will be heavy, clunky and not easily upgradeable. I'm afraid the industry does like to obsolete it's products but if you buy wisely in the first place you will have something that will last you a long time.
Thanks for the reply. To be honest neither bike owes me anything as they are both now 11 years old and, even with some pretty lengthy spells out of the saddle, have clocked up well north of 15000 miles between them. At the time the Dolomite was a pretty well rated bike and the frame is identical to the top spec 105 and SRAM Apex equipped versions. Likewise the Mustang has the same frame as the top spec SRAM Rival equipped bike, just without the factory welded on thru-axles. Decent frame/geometry and compromised components was the budget decision I made at the time as it left a potential upgrade route but time moves on and these bikes are now looking a bit obsolete.

The roads I ride are very heavily biased towards country lanes so an all-road bike is something I've been considering. While it sounds like I'm doubling up for the sake of it a well equipped All-Road bike with a heavy 'road' biased setup plus a slightly more modest spec gravel bike more biased towards off road seems a great two bike setup. Realistically swapping over wheels etc. isn't going to happen as I'm constantly trying to squeeze rides into one hour pockets of time as it is. Even 10 minutes faffing about significantly eats into that so I really want to grab a bike and go.

Food for thought and I appreciate the input :) I'll bounce off AI for a bit and see what comes out of the mix.
 
I got my new bike this year for the following reasons:
  • I wanted a new bike

There we go. :p

The roads I ride are very heavily biased towards country lanes so an all-road bike is something I've been considering. While it sounds like I'm doubling up for the sake of it a well equipped All-Road bike with a heavy 'road' biased setup plus a slightly more modest spec gravel bike more biased towards off road seems a great two bike setup. Realistically swapping over wheels etc. isn't going to happen as I'm constantly trying to squeeze rides into one hour pockets of time as it is. Even 10 minutes faffing about significantly eats into that so I really want to grab a bike and go.

Kind of depends what you consider gravel. There are plenty of road bikes with great gravel tyre clearance and are still very fast and light. Honestly, if you want a bike for fast road and light gravel you could likely get a single bike and just stick fast 35/38mm tyres on it and lose little in the way of speed.

UK gravel is a funny thing. Its a bike like saying I ride MTB. Well downhill is MTB and so is light cross country. The bikes you want are miles apart. If its just the occasional dirt track then 35/38mm tyres will be fine. If its light cross country then you might want to consider keeping that second bike. I wouldn't worry about strength or durability. Modern carbon/gravel bikes are super strong.
 
All of a sudden I've spent a lot of money on my £355 bike :p

I'm not in a massive rush to make any decisions but I am at a bit of a cross roads as to which way to go. Replace one, replace both or replace neither and make the current ones a little better.
The top part matters, legitimate opinion (as I'm full of them) - spending the money on the gravel bike sounds like a better investment for you, it has Disc brakes already, which can only get better by going newer+hydraulic. It sounds like it fits you better and you're enjoying your time on that more, so you'll enjoy the upgrades more and feel like you get a lot more from them. The gravel bike will already have far more clearance than the rim brake road bike, so the newer trend of wider wheels and tyres won't be an issue for it. The older rim brake you can easily get into clearance issues, it's only really the last 5+ years that road bike frames came with more and more clearance. Yours being alloy it likely means you can't go wider than 19mm rims and 28mm tyres. The gravel bike should clear 32mm tyres on wider rims.

Upgrading from alloy to carbon is a big thing. It may not feel it at first, but overall riding, particularly on typical UK roads, is just much better and nicer overall with a modern carbon gravel/road frame taking so much buzz/vibration compared to an older alloy road frame.

Most of the good things you listed about your gravel bike - are reasons I enjoyed switching from an ally rim brake bike (Giant Defy 1 2015) to my carbon disc (Specialized Diverge 2016). It became my '1 bike to rule them all' for 8 years and I loved it. Still do. Yes it was an early gravel bike with road gears so fitted in well me riding it as a 'do everything' road bike, but it was immediately more comfortable than the alloy frames (on alloy wheels and before tubeless). Had tons of clearance for better mudguards and wider/bigger rims and tyres. Through the 36,000km it has ridden, I upgraded from cheap plastic guards to full metal guards. Upgraded mechanical 11s 105 to Di2 11s. Upgraded cheap alloy wheels to fancy carbon deeper road ones. For a £1650 bike I've easily spent 5k through the years upgrading and replacing things as I went. It's still fantastic to ride now and has become my commuter + winter bike. Well worth it!

The alloy Giant Defy I had, I did ride for many years (2012-2016) as my main bike, after that I rode it indoors until cracked the frame riding it on Zwift in 2021 (warranty replacement Contend still going well - has only ridden outside 3 times). When outdoors+commuting the Defy did 21,000km and I did upgrade the wheels and groupset+brakes (non-brand/FSA/Tektro to 105-Ultegra) on it during that time. For a £900 bike changing to £140 better alloy wheels (Khamsins!) made a massive difference to it, I even put £350 carbon wheels on it, much lighter but wasn't much better a riding experience on typical roads compared to the alloy. I constantly had indexing issues due to mechanical/cable wear and tear which could also be related to badly fitting mudguards on narrow wheels with tight fitting clearance. The frame was just so limited in options due to it. Changing the Tektro brakes to Shimano was a big change - as was using shimano pads. Worth doing both on yours to see if it gets much better, but long drop rim brakes are pretty limited. They just lack strength due to the length of the arm & cable pull. Fitted a Shimano R451 long drop caliper to my other halfs rear last year when changing wheels to get clearance for better guards. Worked ok but still such a fudge to get a good fit on both and no real change to power from the Claris short one she had before. But at least she's stopped moaning about getting a wet arse quite so much! ;)

I'm a carbon frame convert, carbon wheels too can give you lots more options - especially wider and tubeless as I'm a convert for those too! But a lot of it is spending your money in the right places over time, spend it where you'll get tangiable benefit the most. Wheels. Tyres. Brakes. Groupset. If your current frame can do what you want to do, with those upgrades, there is little point changing it.

I spent quite a lot of time doing upgrades when things needed replacing, to benefit myself in future. Getting everything to Shimano cranks. Getting everything to 11s groupsets. It just meant being able to 'trickle down' components - my other half is riding a 12 year old alloy giant avail 4 (which came with Sora+Claris) with 11s Ultegra on it and at some point I'll make the call to put her on the di2 setup that is on my Zwift bike. Everything will then be electronic shifting.

I could only 'justify' my Tarmac SL7 (2024) because they where a good price & I could upgrade the parts myself to keep the price down. I felt I deserved it and the Diverge doing all my commuting was getting pretty tired (scuffs/knocks/peeling paint lacquer/stripped TA threads/broken mudguard mounts/loose BB shell). Honestly, I did expect more of a difference with the Tarmac to my heavily upgraded Diverge for the £4500 the SL7 cost (or the £6500 replacement when it got smashed). But equally it isn't really much less comfortable (most of that must come from carbon + wheels/tyres), while only being a bit quicker - 45mm deep carbon wheels compared to 30mm. I notice the weight difference more (SL7 is around 8kg and the Diverge is around 10kg) it just feels more nimble, turns quicker and I've got it setup more aggressive so I'm more aero... But my Same Diverge setup these days would be the same price so maybe the Tarmac wasn't really an upgrade, more of a side-grade...!
 
Last edited:
Awesome replies, thank you. The gravel bike definitely fits me better but there is something about the road bike that I still enjoy in comparison. It is much more lively and snappier. For a quick 1 hour blast around the local lanes it is still my go to whereas the gravel bike I'll take out for a couple of hours and mix it up a little. The road bike also serves as my turbo machine so lives on that during winter.

I've done a bit of reading around (it is 28.8C in my office, it is too hot for me to think properly ;) ) and what I didn't realise is that if I get a new set of wheels that work with QR many options can then be swapped over to thur-axle at a later point. I'm starting to lean slightly towards leaving the road bike as is and just enjoying it and swapping the original low spec wheels on the gravel to a set of entry level Hunts with new tyres and going tubeless at the same time.

I swapped the tyres on the Raleigh early on for some Schwalbe G-One All-round 38mm and that improved it noticeably. I'm thinking new wheels plus a fresh set of G-Ones (or maybe Cinturato Gravel H) plus ditching the tubes may freshen her up enough. It will cost me more than the bike did originally but I'm in a different place financially now and it isn't dead money as I can swap out the centres and I've got a decent set of rims for any future bike.
 
I swapped the tyres on the Raleigh early on for some Schwalbe G-One All-round 38mm and that improved it noticeably. I'm thinking new wheels plus a fresh set of G-Ones (or maybe Cinturato Gravel H) plus ditching the tubes may freshen her up enough. It will cost me more than the bike did originally but I'm in a different place financially now and it isn't dead money as I can swap out the centres and I've got a decent set of rims for any future bike.

If there's 41mm+ clearance, depending on internal rim width you might need less, grab a 40mm Caracal Race. I have a 45mm version on the rear of my gravel ebike and it's brilliant on the tarmac lanes.
 
This is an Australian retailer. Good place to source high end parts as well as some of the upper tier Chinese made stuff. They build custom bikes for those that have money to burn, like the bloke that commissioned this :cool:

 
You could buy a nice set of wheels, but these days wheels and tyres are getting wider. So they might not fit. Ideally you could get a decent set of wheels, fit them to your bike, and if you ever upgrade the frame, these new wheels would then work nicely on that new bike.

But not sure if you have a rim brake bike or disc, which again, raises issues. As no point buying a decent set of rim wheels, if you then want to use them in the future on a bike which will likely be disc.

Also the risk of QR vs Thru Axle these days though. No point buying decent QR based wheels for an older frame and being unable to re-use. I know there are adaptors but i'm sure i recall there were still a lot of compataibility issues around when they work vs when they don't

Or you could be absolute ballbags like Pinnacle with the old Arkose where the front was QR and the rear was thru axle :mad:

@lordrobs Do you have an idea of budget here for either upgrading stuff or a new bike? Probably helps to come up with a suggestion. There are also a lot of used bikes available as absolute bargains.
 
Last edited:
Also the risk of QR vs Thru Axle these days though. No point buying decent QR based wheels for an older frame and being unable to re-use. I know there are adaptors but i'm sure i recall there were still a lot of compataibility issues around when they work vs when they don't

Or you could be absolute ballbags like Pinnacle with the old Arkose where the front was QR and the rear was thru axle :mad:

@lordrobs Do you have an idea of budget here for either upgrading stuff or a new bike? Probably helps to come up with a suggestion. There are also a lot of used bikes available as absolute bargains.
That was what drew me to Hunt wheels as they can be easily configured with QR, 12mm or 15mm. It doesn't feel like dead money if I can move them to another bike in the future.

Nope, no budget as such. I'm more constrained by what I can justify spending really.

I'd never have considered buying used before but I did so recently. The guy was great to deal with, knew his stuff and the bike was in good shape. Think I paid about 40% of the new cost and it had barely been ridden as it had the moulding tabs on the original tyres still!

I guess I need to work out what I'm really trying to gain as I don't ride with a club anymore and I'm too over the hill to give a monkeys about Strava segments :p If I could add a touch of that peppiness my road bike has to the gravel bike I think I'd have exactly what I'm after. Bottom spec OEM wheels with inner tubes to entry level Hunts and tubeless seems my best bet without spending mega bucks. Wheels + tyres + sealant should still leave me change from £400.

Its stupid really, when people ask me the same question I always suggest new wheels and tyres as the best bang for buck move yet when I look at it myself I start to question the logic :rolleyes:
 
Ah yeah that's decent of the hunt wheels then. Assuming the replacement hubs are reasonably priced.

Do you use tubeless or sealant at the moment? Just wondering whether it's worth the 30 mins to switch tyres between bikes to see how your gravel bike feels on road tyres and if that gives you the nimbleness you feel is missing. Might help decide whether a single bike with 2 wheelsets offers what you want.

Note that with a second set of wheels you then also need an extra cassette too and potentially get chain issues as things wear at different levels. Although should be minimal i think.
 
I assume this is the same on all group rides but I swear the number of people who grouse about how their legs are feeling and then absolutely hammer it is ridiculous! "I'm done guys, that last hill blew my doors off". ********. Off the front he goes again.
 
Back
Top Bottom