Soldato
- Joined
- 22 Aug 2004
- Posts
- 7,606
** Acme [Akagi] bought a pink estate car - E30 325i project log! **
- Thread starter Akagi
- Start date
Soldato
yup its always @Diddums who derails the threads! 
anyway, think the e30 is going to be lovely!
I'm actually looking forward to seeing it in that colour.
anyway, think the e30 is going to be lovely!
I'm actually looking forward to seeing it in that colour.
New stuff:
Few bits and pieces lined up for this now. Have a re-built 3.64 188 case LSD with a Z3M bush fitted sitting waiting in the shed, a genuine Alpina front valance sitting in the loft along with an uncracked dashboard and a brand new genuine rear screen (my one doesn't de-mist properly anymore) - Also have a new heater blower motor because mine wails like a banshee.
Stuff thats broken...
Few new issues have cropped up after the cold weather, it really didn't seem to like being out in the cold... The oil level sensor seems to have become intermittent, as has the tail light wiring on one side, the door open switch on the drivers door is being weird again but that should be an easy fix, the headlight switch seems to have some kind of loose connection whereby it turns the lights on and off etc, but doesn't always illuminate the interior lights/cluster etc unless you wiggle it. I have most of the bits to sort these niggles in a box in the loft so not a huge issue.
The power steering was a bit "lumpy" and seemed to cut in and out during the first 100 yards of its first drive after being left out in the snow, I'm hoping thats not the start of something more serious as its already had a refurbished rack fitted, and the ATF level seems fine for the power steering.
Have fitted a new battery, 740CCA and 76AH as opposed the the previous 660CCA and 70AH battery. The one one was also totally dud and wouldn't hold a charge, but the upgrade in capacity is welcome, along with a battery isolator.
Other stuff:
Still waiting to hear back from the bodyshop regarding the bits of welding getting re-done, the re-spray, and other bits and pieces I am having them do. They are very polite and professional but most bodyshops seem a little bit hopeless with communication from what I've read from other peoples projects etc. They are also amidst a premises move so its to be expected I suppose, but the hope of it being ready by show season is dwindling.
ABS is still broken... Really haven't had the inclination to look into it, I hate diagnosing ABS problems. I'll have to dig into it again at some point though!
I do also need my spare 885 head re-building if anyone has machine shop recommendations reasonably close to Brighton. It needs new valve guides (brass, press-in), valve stem seals, a valve/seat lap, and skim.
Few bits and pieces lined up for this now. Have a re-built 3.64 188 case LSD with a Z3M bush fitted sitting waiting in the shed, a genuine Alpina front valance sitting in the loft along with an uncracked dashboard and a brand new genuine rear screen (my one doesn't de-mist properly anymore) - Also have a new heater blower motor because mine wails like a banshee.
Stuff thats broken...
Few new issues have cropped up after the cold weather, it really didn't seem to like being out in the cold... The oil level sensor seems to have become intermittent, as has the tail light wiring on one side, the door open switch on the drivers door is being weird again but that should be an easy fix, the headlight switch seems to have some kind of loose connection whereby it turns the lights on and off etc, but doesn't always illuminate the interior lights/cluster etc unless you wiggle it. I have most of the bits to sort these niggles in a box in the loft so not a huge issue.
The power steering was a bit "lumpy" and seemed to cut in and out during the first 100 yards of its first drive after being left out in the snow, I'm hoping thats not the start of something more serious as its already had a refurbished rack fitted, and the ATF level seems fine for the power steering.
Have fitted a new battery, 740CCA and 76AH as opposed the the previous 660CCA and 70AH battery. The one one was also totally dud and wouldn't hold a charge, but the upgrade in capacity is welcome, along with a battery isolator.
Other stuff:
Still waiting to hear back from the bodyshop regarding the bits of welding getting re-done, the re-spray, and other bits and pieces I am having them do. They are very polite and professional but most bodyshops seem a little bit hopeless with communication from what I've read from other peoples projects etc. They are also amidst a premises move so its to be expected I suppose, but the hope of it being ready by show season is dwindling.
ABS is still broken... Really haven't had the inclination to look into it, I hate diagnosing ABS problems. I'll have to dig into it again at some point though!
I do also need my spare 885 head re-building if anyone has machine shop recommendations reasonably close to Brighton. It needs new valve guides (brass, press-in), valve stem seals, a valve/seat lap, and skim.
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Soldato
Good to hear things are still progressing. I know how you feel regarding electrical issues in the cold! My door lock actuators are a bit grumpy when it gets colder and either the reed switch has broken or my float has stopped floating in my washer fluid tank as that light is now permanently on. What does the Alpina splitter look like on the car? My Google skills are zero-to-none so I'm struggling to find it - the ones I can find seem to have a much larger lip and double the vents in the centre?
Blower motors wailing are normally just because the bearings are drying out, disassembling it and giving it a bit of a blast with sprayable lithium grease normally extends its life and shuts it up - might be worth doing even just for spares!
ABS wise, if pump/module are assumed to be good then checking sensors and reluctors ring would be the next step. I seem to vaguely recall you stating something about module/pump being okay, perhaps I'm making that up? Rings do get very crusty/broken with age and are super cheap which is nice. Fitting them is not so nice, but hey ho.
Blower motors wailing are normally just because the bearings are drying out, disassembling it and giving it a bit of a blast with sprayable lithium grease normally extends its life and shuts it up - might be worth doing even just for spares!
ABS wise, if pump/module are assumed to be good then checking sensors and reluctors ring would be the next step. I seem to vaguely recall you stating something about module/pump being okay, perhaps I'm making that up? Rings do get very crusty/broken with age and are super cheap which is nice. Fitting them is not so nice, but hey ho.
@Cookeh Alpina C2 Touring with the Alpina valance - https://www.classicheroes.co.uk/alpina-c2-2-7-touring
Good thinking with the blower motor, I'll give the new one a greasing before I put it in, and keep the other one as a spare in case it does just need greasing.
With the ABS I'm pretty sure its either the relay on the ABS pump or one of the sensors. I need to test each of the sensors really. I have replaced one, but I had to drill the old one out, thats how seized in place it was... I'd rather not have to do that again if I'm completely honest!
Good thinking with the blower motor, I'll give the new one a greasing before I put it in, and keep the other one as a spare in case it does just need greasing.
With the ABS I'm pretty sure its either the relay on the ABS pump or one of the sensors. I need to test each of the sensors really. I have replaced one, but I had to drill the old one out, thats how seized in place it was... I'd rather not have to do that again if I'm completely honest!
Soldato
Looks pretty good, though perhaps needs a sideskirt or seething when looking at the profile? Appears several inches lower. Would leave the sticker off too.
Sticker won't go on straight away, but eventually they will all go on cos I plan on making it a full replica. Engine and all.
Side skirts will stay as is, that's how they were.
Side skirts will stay as is, that's how they were.
Bought some new wheels.
I was originally after some 15x7 4x100 BBS Mahle's but couldn't find any because they are as rare as rocking horse poo, so I ended up with some Melber weaves which are quite similar.
I've found some BBS Mahle's now, a set of 5, all straight, no repairs etc, bead blasted ready for refurb. Getting them done in Porsche Titan Grey Metallic, and the lips I shall polish.
And found a buyer for the Melbers. All is well.
I was originally after some 15x7 4x100 BBS Mahle's but couldn't find any because they are as rare as rocking horse poo, so I ended up with some Melber weaves which are quite similar.
I've found some BBS Mahle's now, a set of 5, all straight, no repairs etc, bead blasted ready for refurb. Getting them done in Porsche Titan Grey Metallic, and the lips I shall polish.
And found a buyer for the Melbers. All is well.
Car developed a really strong fuelly smell when the tank was approaching full, diagnosed it as the largest of the three hoses which go to the breather tank leaking at the tank end where it goes on the stub under the plate under the back seat, near the fuel pump. It acts as an overflow when the fuel is sloshing around.
When I re fitted the tank originally I had to trim the end off as it had split, I intended to replace it but forgot about it. Its now split again as you'd expect on the new end where I lopped it off.
So bought a new hose which I will install in due course... Its actually surprisingly expensive to buy a 1.3 metre length of 14id 20od fuel resistant hose... Opted to spend £15 on a non reinforced nitrile fuel hose since its not carrying any pressure, as opposed to spending £50 (!!) on a genuine reinforced one.
Also need to clean up and re underseal the inner sill and side of the fuel tank as the petrol leak has washed it all off. Lovely
When I re fitted the tank originally I had to trim the end off as it had split, I intended to replace it but forgot about it. Its now split again as you'd expect on the new end where I lopped it off.
So bought a new hose which I will install in due course... Its actually surprisingly expensive to buy a 1.3 metre length of 14id 20od fuel resistant hose... Opted to spend £15 on a non reinforced nitrile fuel hose since its not carrying any pressure, as opposed to spending £50 (!!) on a genuine reinforced one.
Also need to clean up and re underseal the inner sill and side of the fuel tank as the petrol leak has washed it all off. Lovely
Installed the new fuel hose, and noticed that the fuel hose channel which goes under the back seat has rotted out despite my best efforts to prevent the existing rust from getting any worse, so that will have to be replaced. Just when I thought the welding was concluded. 
BBS Mahles have gone off for refurb, polished libs with Porsche Titan Grey metallic centres.
Bought a full cruise control kit which will sit in the cupboard for ages along with the full on-board-computer kit, the re-built limited slip diff, big-bore throttle body, 885 head with schrick cams, genuine Alpina valance, and other stuff I'm 'saving' for once the bodywork and paintwork is done... I've reverted back to wanting Mora metallic.
At this point I think I should probably get spare parts cover...
Car itself is running fine but the PAS tensioner needs replacing because I tried to adjust it without loosening the pivot bolt and I sheared a couple of teeth off because I'm an idiot.
Bought a full cruise control kit which will sit in the cupboard for ages along with the full on-board-computer kit, the re-built limited slip diff, big-bore throttle body, 885 head with schrick cams, genuine Alpina valance, and other stuff I'm 'saving' for once the bodywork and paintwork is done... I've reverted back to wanting Mora metallic.
At this point I think I should probably get spare parts cover...
Car itself is running fine but the PAS tensioner needs replacing because I tried to adjust it without loosening the pivot bolt and I sheared a couple of teeth off because I'm an idiot.
Soldato
You said it!I'm an idiot.
As much as I've ragged on you for bothering with a wagon, it's good to see this car has been a keeper so far, unlike all the others.
Wagons are the best.You said it!
As much as I've ragged on you for bothering with a wagon, it's good to see this car has been a keeper so far, unlike all the others.
Soldato
What he said.
Soldato
Oh I do like wagons, they are better than convertibles I just don't think they are worth sinking loads of money into compared to the saloons...I should probably have sacked off my 'vert and tidied up the wagon I used for parts to fix the 'vert though.Wagons are the best.
To be honest its more because of my bond with the car at this point. If I were starting again I wouldn't do it. I probably wouldn't buy an E30 at all, it would be an E21 or an E28.
But I've learned so much, gone to so many shows, met so many people, made so many friends, I thought about selling it and I just couldn't do it. This car opened a whole new chapter of my life.
But I've learned so much, gone to so many shows, met so many people, made so many friends, I thought about selling it and I just couldn't do it. This car opened a whole new chapter of my life.
Rather large repair panel obtained, which has been in someones loft for 10 - 15 years. Obviously for a 4 door, but can be joined up somewhere between the swage line and the window line.
Again, it will just end up in the loft until such time that the car goes to the bodyshop. But when an no-longer-available panel surfaces for cheap, you buy it.
In case you are wondering about the paint on the rear quarter, I think one of the lower coats gassed off at a different rate to the higher coats... I changed the type of lacquer I was using half way through... Turns out that is a massive painting no-no! It looked good for a few weeks then started cracking. It has now reached peak cracked-ness.
It was also in attendance at the Retro-rides weekender, don't believe I've mentioned that in here...
Grilles have faded again.
Again, it will just end up in the loft until such time that the car goes to the bodyshop. But when an no-longer-available panel surfaces for cheap, you buy it.
In case you are wondering about the paint on the rear quarter, I think one of the lower coats gassed off at a different rate to the higher coats... I changed the type of lacquer I was using half way through... Turns out that is a massive painting no-no! It looked good for a few weeks then started cracking. It has now reached peak cracked-ness.
It was also in attendance at the Retro-rides weekender, don't believe I've mentioned that in here...
Grilles have faded again.
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Soldato
Try Wurth Plastic PT Dye or whatever the hell its called. Worked for 7 months on my 850 bumpers over winter without me putting any protection over the top of them. Or just respray the buggers with the stuff Lopez was using on his Escort.
I'm just going to get all the black plastic trims de-scuffed and painted satin black when it gets re sprayed anyway.