Soldato
- Joined
- 11 Jun 2013
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- 2,632
Well exactly and we still get taken by a cassette upgrade saving the same 30g
Road Cycling
- Thread starter FrenchTart
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Soldato
- Joined
- 11 Jun 2013
- Posts
- 2,632
Has anyone gone from compact to a 52/36 with a wider cassette (say 11-32)? If it makes a difference I’m a 3.5w/kg type guy and do a lot of flat riding
Pedals will come with the cleats so don't bother
Though they won't come with multi release, you'll have to "twist" out.
Went from compact and 11-32 to semi-compact with 11-28. Don't really notice the difference, less easy to be lazy on climbs though.
Soldato
For flat stuff wouldn’t a narrower ratio cassette on a compact make more sense?
Old bike has a 50/34 teamed up with an 11/32. new bike has 52/36 with 11/30. I'm nothing like 3.5w/kg, I certainly notice it on the hills.
Went with a BMC Roadmachine 02.
Had a ride on it this morning, and it will need some tweaking but pretty happy with it so far. Mechanical Ultegra feels a bit strange after using etap for the last year or so.
I'll break down my Scott foil and sell it in pieces as I imagine it's worth more that way. Enve wheels with chris kings hub and an etap groupset anyone?
Had a ride on it this morning, and it will need some tweaking but pretty happy with it so far. Mechanical Ultegra feels a bit strange after using etap for the last year or so.
I'll break down my Scott foil and sell it in pieces as I imagine it's worth more that way. Enve wheels with chris kings hub and an etap groupset anyone?
They'll all be compatible with each other. I'd read some of the reviews on those shoes if you don't have real middle of the road kinda feet. Shimano sizing can sometimes be narrow and many of their shoes come in a wider option, if you require it. The ones which don't (don't think that particular model do), then they tend to be a more relaxed fit. But worth reading a few reviews of to see if it's mentioned.
I've gone from a compact to a semi compact (both with 11-32's) and didn't notice a huge difference. Even with targetting steep climbs, as it came also with a bike change and increasing power/fitness. That same bike now has a standard and I've noticed a large difference to the semi, as that has also happened with a slight reduction in fitness. So much so I generally think I need to go back to semi for Sportives/commuting/winter. I like riding standard, really like the speed as I have the power. But when commuting/riding fatigued/tired/going easy, then I think the semi is more suited (and generally has high enough gears for 90% of the fast stuff).
Outdoors I've always ridden 11-32 cassettes, regardless of crankset. I tend to hunt out hills and live in quite a rural area with many rolling roads, so can't imagine riding anything else (unless maybe I went back to a sub-compact). But on the turbo I originally rode 11-32, switched to 11-28 and even now if it came time to change the cassette I would probably go for 11-25. That's riding standard cranks. Even with a direct drive turbo with Zwift realism set at 100% there's nothing steep enough on there for me to need my 32t. Even Radio tower/AdZ. Some of that might be because I'm hitting 20% or more out on the roads frequently enough. Even steeper as challenges! Gimmie the grind!
Good shout, all Shimano pedals generally come with cleats!Pedals will come with the cleats so don't bother
Though they won't come with multi release, you'll have to "twist" out.
Have to admit I never tried those multi-release but I remember considering them. Anyone used them to confirm how different they are?
I didn't have any problems disengaging SPD's when I started, only advice would be wind the pressure right down so they're very easy to get out of. As the cleats/pedals wear they'll get a little easier anyway. I quite quickly got the 'knack' of disengaging - most of my early cleat falls where due to balance and then being unable to put the 'wrong' foot down fast enough. Even now (after 6 years) I always disengage my left foot and put that down. The times I have to disengage my right and put it down it feels quite alien. If you can get familiar disengaging either then do so early on and keep at it - as it's a very useful skill to have! The few people I know who don't disengage much and find something to lean on, tend to be those who still occasionally cleat fall. The ones who do it well tend to be able to track stand anyway. YMMV.
Soldato
- Joined
- 11 Jun 2013
- Posts
- 2,632
Could be, but big gears look cooler!
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Went with a BMC Roadmachine 02.
Had a ride on it this morning, and it will need some tweaking but pretty happy with it so far. Mechanical Ultegra feels a bit strange after using etap for the last year or so.
I'll break down my Scott foil and sell it in pieces as I imagine it's worth more that way. Enve wheels with chris kings hub and an etap groupset anyone?
Hope you went disc! What made you choose the RM02, Which year? Current? They're nice but don't see many BMC's around generally, probably due to prices being high. Wouldn't have them penned as a particular endurance or fast aero bike, which probably means it's very middle of the road between the two?
I'd say the Foil was still much quicker, why sell it?
I'd love the wheels, hubs and etap but rim brake = pffft.
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Bought some a few years ago but yet to try them. I should really change my MTB shoes as the cleats are pretty worn (lots of float) but they clip in / out just fine still. I figured they could be helpful when you have sudden stops on trails but even in those situations I've only had a few situations where I've fallen due to being clipped in, generally when I've leant off to the right side where it feels unnatural to clip out.
Soldato
Must be your mega-wattzzzz Roady
I've not managed to unclip SPDs even during power tests on my turbo. Did have an issue the other week on the TT when I couldn't figure out why my left foot was all over the place. Then I twigged the cleat was loose but I think that was the first since I put them on in 2014.I've lost a cleat bolt on an SPD before. It was not fun trying to detach myself from the bike. I ended up "falling over" on purpose on grass and then removing the shoe from my foot. Then I took a cleat bolt out of the other shoe, put it in through the top of the shoe and finally I managed to unclip that shoe from the pedal.
I've got scar on my shin and calf from the only MTB'ing I've done. From Pedal gouges which then got grime in them!
Flat pedals after many years of road clipless ruined my legs more than the actual riding haha 
Picture here of a new Cannondale Systemsix. I hadn't really appreciated before how much they really don't look like a classic 'dale! I'm just so used to Cannondale = CAAD. Sloping top tube, rear wheel aero cutout really break from that mould. Although the non integrated cables/stem/headset is strange in the flesh and really stands out on that picture considering the otherwise very aero front?! Less obvious on web pictures. Love that colour option/combo though!
In other news, my legs feel bloody fantastic!
Maybe these weeks of illness and large reduction in fatigue from the small amount of commuting riding I've done (at much lower intensity) is something I need to do more frequently. I know I'll have lost power and form from the reduction in miles over so many weeks. My commuting I won't really encounter the main thing we know that'll have hit - my endurance/power over extended periods.
The Thursday night TT was on the Stretton course last night, which is on my commute does a part of. I put some power in on the way home (before I realised the TT was on), PR'd a segment and really tested my legs, the time through a couple of segments are in amongst the top times of those TT'ing on their TT rigs that (5th this week of 35 while I was in commuting gear with my backpack lol). It must have been a fast/float night and I really need to have a go at one of these. This 25TT and one of the 10TT's they ride on the same bit of course are right on my doorstep. Just the time never suits!
In other news, it's Full Kit Friday! Total club kit for me today, just 'because'. Could we make that a thing?
Or my sloppy, crazy and inefficient pedalling style when sprinting ha!Must be your mega-wattzzzz Roady
Same. An SPD is the only cleat I've lost a bolt on like that and been stuck in the pedal! I've had an SPD-SL come loose but the bolt didn't come out so could still unclip with enough angle & force. Never had a Keo come loose/undone. But I do fit them with blue Loctite and 6-8nm!
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Soldato
My Cube came with a compact and 11/32 cassette and I have an r7000 medium cage mech and a CS-HR700 11-34 in the spares box to fit at some point. The selling point wasn't so much the slightly easier bailout gear, but given I'm a hill climbing fanatic, the 11-34 gives me more practical sprockets to use up these local inclines that often peak in the 10-25% gradient ballpark (18-20-22-25-28-32 vs 17-19-21-23-25-27-30-34).
The downside of the 11-34 for some is that it's gappy at the high end (11-13-15), but there are very few descents in the Owslebury/Empshott/West Marden area of the South Downs where I'm happy to use 11-12-13 on my current cassette, a rare exception is https://www.strava.com/segments/7212995 just south of East Meon... So those three sprockets have stayed very shiny and unused over the past two years.
As someone who much prefers spinning than grinding, I'd be quite happy with something like a 14-34 cassette for the riding I do, but the closest thing Shimano offer is https://www.merlincycles.com/shimano-ultegra-cs-r8000-cassette-102871.html (usually ~£60 and the most expensive Ultegra offering, but currently ~£54 in a Merlin promo on selected Shimano components).
There's not a lot of point in having a low range cassette if the easiest gear will only just get you up your hardest incline on a good day at the start of a ride, I'd rather have something easier to fall back on when I've got legs of lead, or I reach a "wall" having ridden up a handful of cat3/4 hills beforehand over the previous 3+ hours.
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i actually recently went the other way round, the bike originally had 50/34 with 12-25. but now has a 52/36. i mostly travel along the thames and richmond park, so no real gradient of significant length to speak of. For me the large cog at the back is more for after i blow up (normally because i forget to take gel/drink enough). but overall apart from front shifting is smoother, i dont really notice much difference.
havign said that, im quite weak, more like 3w/kg if lucky, so im less demanding of equipment.
havign said that, im quite weak, more like 3w/kg if lucky, so im less demanding of equipment.
Hope you went disc! What made you choose the RM02, Which year? Current? They're nice but don't see many BMC's around generally, probably due to prices being high. Wouldn't have them penned as a particular endurance or fast aero bike, which probably means it's very middle of the road between the two?
I'd say the Foil was still much quicker, why sell it?
I'd love the wheels, hubs and etap but rim brake = pffft.
Went for this one - https://www.evanscycles.com/bmc-roadmachine-02-two-2019-road-bike-EV338301
I decided that after the discount, and then cycle to work scheme on the whole amount it was a no-brainer. I've wanted to move over to disc for a while and to be honest, the foil is way too much bike for me. I'll eventually put some deeper carbon rims, and am tossing up whether or not to go electric on the groupset again. If I have a good year at work I'll send it for a sexy paint job
RE speed - I put a bit of power down with the BMC today and it hit roughly what the Scott did on the exact same stretch of road - effort wise it's a bit more but not much. You're right about there not being many BMC's around and I quite like that.
That's a fair one and great observation. I hadn't really appreciated the wide cassette sacrificed so much at the high end. As you say with your type of riding you really don't notice it, but it's worth noting with some of the 1X bikes appearing on the market (like the 3T's. I think we'll see more). Obviously the single chainrings has a huge bearing on things, something like a 42t front on a bike ridden around the flats you'd be in that top end of the cassette quite frequently.
It's not really the high power we're talking about, I think it more specific about what people are riding and where/how/when. Yes a fairly conservative w/kg isn't going to be pushing a huge gear up climbs, but regardless of the power, it's having the range of gears available for what you're riding.
As you say for your type of riding (not type of rider), you probably have enough gears to ride the same things both hard and easy, without reaching any limits to your gearing. Are you still using the 12-25 cassette on the semi-compact or did you change that too?
Nice, looks great in that grey as it's not that glossy in most of the pics I've seen. You're right, not many of them around and especially with a smart design/paint scheme like that it'll stand out. Mildly annoys me that nice looking bar-stem aero combo has no cable integration! Why design something special if you don't do the obvious with it! Especially a product with a more premium price tag over the competition! Grr!Went for this one - https://www.evanscycles.com/bmc-roadmachine-02-two-2019-road-bike-EV338301
I decided that after the discount, and then cycle to work scheme on the whole amount it was a no-brainer. I've wanted to move over to disc for a while and to be honest, the foil is way too much bike for me. I'll eventually put some deeper carbon rims, and am tossing up whether or not to go electric on the groupset again. If I have a good year at work I'll send it for a sexy paint job
RE speed - I put a bit of power down with the BMC today and it hit roughly what the Scott did on the exact same stretch of road - effort wise it's a bit more but not much. You're right about there not being many BMC's around and I quite like that.
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Do Shimano only do compact, semi and double? Or do they do a 54 or 55 big ring version in Ulteg or DA?
I think 54 up front with the new 30 cassette's would be pretty ideal. Not keen on 1x for road bike, it's stupid.
If you are on a compact just get rid and go with 52 or 53. Check the ratios. It's honestly not going to be the case that you go from being on a gear to not being able to pedal it. The difference is not that much.
I run 53/39 just now with 11-28 and lucky if I use the little ring at all on rides. I can think of 3 climbs within 40 mile radius (Scottish Highlands!) that I need the little ring for. It's seriously not even worth the worry of adding 3 extra teeth to your big ring from what you have especially if you are running the 30/32 cassette.
I think 54 up front with the new 30 cassette's would be pretty ideal. Not keen on 1x for road bike, it's stupid.
If you are on a compact just get rid and go with 52 or 53. Check the ratios. It's honestly not going to be the case that you go from being on a gear to not being able to pedal it. The difference is not that much.
I run 53/39 just now with 11-28 and lucky if I use the little ring at all on rides. I can think of 3 climbs within 40 mile radius (Scottish Highlands!) that I need the little ring for. It's seriously not even worth the worry of adding 3 extra teeth to your big ring from what you have especially if you are running the 30/32 cassette.
when i first got the bike (50/34), i couldnt even get up some minor slopes, so i switched to 11-30 (with the oversized pulley wheel cage modification). then slowly i grew out of it (not big fan of the 15-17 gap), then went back to 12-25 because i then realise my commute only needs 50-16 or 34-16 (i used as a 2 gear system). about a month ago, i went to 52/36 and stuck with the 12-25. but i have been toying around with the idea of mixing the two cassettes together: 12-13-14-15-16-17-19-21-24-27-30. (The OSPW seems to work better with bigger cogs at the back, not sure why).