Bathroom ceiling caved in

thenewoc · 5 Oct 2021 at 11:48

At a minimum I would remove all the plasterboard around the window recess and replace otherwise you'll end up with quite a narrow looking frame once silicone has gone around it. I'd also remove the plasterboard from the wall where the door is so the architrave doesn't need redoing in terms of levels. Then re-board the whole room but also screw it down to the blockwork in addition to dot and dab providing the extra layer of plasterboard still allows for the measurements of the bath or shower dimensions.

Ideally I'd whack it all off back to brick / block and then re-board it out with the water resistant plasterboard.

LeeUK · 5 Oct 2021 at 17:30

Well I'm having my doubts and losing confidence in them. They have left the old floor tiles down and have put in the shower tray already. The old wall tiles that were under the current wall tiles are going to be left by the looks of it. Really need to have a chat with them.

Lot of supplies have been delivered and the new LVT flooring has a built in underlay so it looks like they just go down and click into place on top of the old floor tiles, no boarding or screed etc.

Job is costing £6495 and I've already paid a £2500 deposit before work started. Oh and they have used speed fit pipes under the shower tray for the hot & cold water.

Delvis · 5 Oct 2021 at 17:32

Speed fit is pretty normal nowadays (assuming you mean copper pipes with push on ends), people don't join pipes like they used to

LeeUK · 5 Oct 2021 at 17:47

Delvis said:
Speed fit is pretty normal nowadays (assuming you mean copper pipes with push on ends), people don't join pipes like they used to

I mean whole runs of white bendy tube then going into copper up the wall.

200sols · 5 Oct 2021 at 17:52

LeeUK said:
I mean whole runs of white bendy tube then going into copper up the wall.

Speed fit or the other alternatives is standard now so that wouldn't worry me.... But leaving the tiles is a complete bodge, I wouldnt be happy with that.

thenewoc · 5 Oct 2021 at 18:21

The problem with leaving the old floor tiles down is it may make a different level to the level of flooring outside that room.

Either way I'd be rolling my eyes if you're telling me it's level without putting a self levelling screed down which needs to dry fully, usually overnight before putting the LVT down.

At the price you're paying, I'd expect it stripped back.

dlockers · 5 Oct 2021 at 18:46

Tiling over tiles I'd be calling it a day already. That's proper Uber mega bodge.

LeeUK · 5 Oct 2021 at 18:58

These are the new LVT tiles that are going down:

You can see in this photo the shower tray over the old floor tiles and what looks like plan plasterboard up the shower:

LeeUK · 5 Oct 2021 at 19:00

LVT with built in underlay:

Buffman · 5 Oct 2021 at 19:13

Are they putting studwork onto the back wall for the tiles or are they literally applying straight new tiles straight to the old tiles? If they are tiling onto the existing tiles I'd sack them immediately or tell them you're not paying them if thats what they're doing.

For plasterboard - I asked a similar question in this thread, and using plasterboard is OK if they are going to tank it - however if they're doing it from scratch and a professional install it also seems a bit of a bodge job. They're purely trying to save money on materials (which isn't a significant saving - maybe £100 to £200 more to use a water resistant tanking board) at the risk of your future problem.
https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/t...a-dot-and-dabbed-wall.18938809/#post-35146553

The floor I'm more indifferent on however the correct thing to do would be to remove the tiles (you're adding extra level to the flooring) - are the current floor tiles level?

I wouldnt expect to pay anything upfront especially £2.5k! unless they've sourced the materials?

Source - not a tradesman just done a fair bit of DIY.

200sols · 5 Oct 2021 at 19:30

Aside from the tiles it looks like they've done a decent job fitting the tray, it looks well supported and battened. It appears to be siliconed to the wall, however use of something like a classiseal would have been better. The tray has been weighted down while the silicone cures which is nice although that could be more luck than judgement here. The plasterboard isn't tanked (yet) and it must be before tiling commences. They have no idea of the substrate behind those tiles or if it has been tanked etc, it really is a bodge not removing them..

LeeUK · 5 Oct 2021 at 19:37

Buffman said:
Are they putting studwork onto the back wall for the tiles or are they literally applying straight new tiles straight to the old tiles? If they are tiling onto the existing tiles I'd sack them immediately or tell them you're not paying them if thats what they're doing.

For plasterboard - I asked a similar question in this thread, and using plasterboard is OK if they are going to tank it - however if they're doing it from scratch and a professional install it also seems a bit of a bodge job. They're purely trying to save money on materials (which isn't a significant saving - maybe £100 to £200 more to use a water resistant tanking board) at the risk of your future problem.
https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/t...a-dot-and-dabbed-wall.18938809/#post-35146553

The floor I'm more indifferent on however the correct thing to do would be to remove the tiles (you're adding extra level to the flooring) - are the current floor tiles level?

I wouldnt expect to pay anything upfront especially £2.5k! unless they've sourced the materials?

Source - not a tradesman just done a fair bit of DIY.

They are not putting new tiles on they are putting cladding on but don't know how they fix it whether they put new studwork up or if the cladding literally sticks straight onto the old tiles/walls.

I think once the new flooring goes down (on top of the old flooring) I think it will still be level with the kitchen, as the the little passageway between bathroom and kitchen doesn't have the old tile flooring down, just concrete and it is lower than the old bathroom tiles and the concreted kitchen floor.

Yeah deposit seems steep but they are supplying everything. What I did have a concern with was the guy who turned up yesterday morning had a SumUp card machine and wanted me to pay another £2500 but I brushed it off with an excuse about not having my credit cards with me. However after checking the initial quote form the terms did state another payment before work starts. Which I still haven't paid and haven't been re-asked to.

Buffman · 5 Oct 2021 at 19:43

Theres no way it costs that much in materials so I would be extremely hesitant to pay more than you currently have until its finished to your satisfaction.

Can you get a picture of the tiled back wall relative to the tray without their stuff in the way? If its right up against it they wont have any room to stud it out/offset it (nor should they - its an inefficient use of space)

It really sounds like you should sack them off the job to be honest..

200sols · 5 Oct 2021 at 19:47

Panels will be just glued to the existing tiles using a grab adhesive.

Buffman · 5 Oct 2021 at 19:47

200sols said:
Panels will be just glued to the existing tiles using a grab adhesive.

Fair comment! ignore me, if they do above might not be so bad..

200sols · 5 Oct 2021 at 19:49

Buffman said:
Fair comment! ignore me, if they do above might not be so bad..

Still not good but not as bad as tiling over them. Some of these panels are very expensive and some are very cheap as well so they can eat up a chunk of budget depending on the product.

thenewoc · 5 Oct 2021 at 19:54

We did similar in our kitchen and down stairs toilet with LVT Karndean over the previous ceramic tiles because it would be a nightmare to chisel the old up and would also damage the concrete no doubt underneath. Ours was screeded but Karndean is quite a thin tile and without screed it would probably have shown grout lines pushing through over time. It did make the heights odd with the hallway but we were able to rectify that at a later stage when the hallway was laid with laminate as we used a thick enough underlay to bring all the levels back to being the same.

I think you'll be alright with them large LVT tiles with the rubber back as long as none of the old tiles are obviously very uneven.

I think I'd be happier if it were me that the rear wall also had new plasterboard screwed threw the top of the old tiles. I guess if it's large panels that are being stuck over the top that should be ok if the old tiles seem sound.

LeeUK · 6 Oct 2021 at 01:01

Buffman said:
Theres no way it costs that much in materials so I would be extremely hesitant to pay more than you currently have until its finished to your satisfaction.

Can you get a picture of the tiled back wall relative to the tray without their stuff in the way? If its right up against it they wont have any room to stud it out/offset it (nor should they - its an inefficient use of space)

It really sounds like you should sack them off the job to be honest..

It does look like the cladding goes straight onto the wall and old tiles but if that is fine then I'll take it. Just noticed that the shower drain is going to be at the opposite end of the actual shower, should it not be at the same end?

LeeUK · 6 Oct 2021 at 01:03

thenewoc said:
We did similar in our kitchen and down stairs toilet with LVT Karndean over the previous ceramic tiles because it would be a nightmare to chisel the old up and would also damage the concrete no doubt underneath. Ours was screeded but Karndean is quite a thin tile and without screed it would probably have shown grout lines pushing through over time. It did make the heights odd with the hallway but we were able to rectify that at a later stage when the hallway was laid with laminate as we used a thick enough underlay to bring all the levels back to being the same.

I think you'll be alright with them large LVT tiles with the rubber back as long as none of the old tiles are obviously very uneven.

I think I'd be happier if it were me that the rear wall also had new plasterboard screwed threw the top of the old tiles. I guess if it's large panels that are being stuck over the top that should be ok if the old tiles seem sound.

The old tiles on the back wall seem very solid.

200sols · 6 Oct 2021 at 06:32

LeeUK said:
Just noticed that the shower drain is going to be at the opposite end of the actual shower, should it not be at the same end?

No. The tray is preformed so water will run to the drain assuming they have levelled it properly